FEATURE ARTICLES

Sustainable, functional amino acid ingredients

Amino acids and amino acid derivatives are mild and highly biodegradable raw materials for personal care products, and because they have unique functionality as cosmetic raw materials, more applications and expanded use are expected in the future, as Ajinomoto explains

Sustained actives release using silica aerogel

Tokuyama Corporation of Japan has commercialized a spherical silica aerogel powder, Airlica, for cosmetics applications, which is characterized by its smooth texture derived from its spherical form produced by our proprietary technology.

Novel active illuminating the path to radiant skin

Chemyunion presents an in vitro study showing the action of a resurrection plant and green coffee active in reducing lipofuscin induced by ultraviolet radiation in human fibroblasts, acting as a detoxifying and protective agent. As a result of these differential mechanisms, the clinical study underscores the potential of the resurrection plant and green coffee active formulation in delivering remarkable skin brightening and pro-ageing effects

Nourishing sensitive skin for healthier appearance

Lubrizol describes a novel active ingredient for sensitive skin with anti-ageing benefits that mimics the advantages of a healthy anti- inflammatory diet within the skin. This novel active ingredient, a biotechnological extract isolated from thermal springs in Italy and enriched with nourishing minerals, effectively reduces skin inflammation, even in cases where an unhealthy diet exacerbates the condition

Improving sensoriality of W/O mineral sunscreen

Kao Chemicals proposes the use of two specific ingredients: Exceparl LM-LC (Lauryl Lactate) as a solubilizer for UV filters with high solubility capacity and a low whitening effect, and Penetol GE-IS (Isostearyl Glyceryl Ether) as an emulsifier that forms liquid crystals in W/O emulsions with a higher internal phase content, affording a lighter and non-oily feel of the skin

INTERVIEW: Eyes on the prize

Michael Haspel is global vice president of personal & home care at Clariant. Based in Charlotte, North Carolina in the US and originally from New Jersey, Michael talks to editor Tim Probert about Clariant’s personal care strategy, opportunities in China and other trends

COVER STORY: Boosting astaxanthin benefits with phospholipids

Encapsulation of cosmetic active ingredients in skin-friendly particles potentiates their skin interaction and results in a superior and long-lasting cosmetic effect. PhytoSolve® Astaxanthin is an innovative natural product comprising a synergistic complex of the antioxidant astaxanthin (AXN) and natural phospholipids.

Unraveling complexities of the skin microbiome

Biocogent explains why it is critical for microbiome-based innovations to be promoted and conveyed to the consumer with clarity and an appreciation for the sophistication of the subject matter and technology

Marine biotic ingredient for skin eubiosis

Applying blue biotechnology, MC Actives and Microalgae Solutions biomimic marine benthic conditions to produce marine extracts rich in polyphenols and saccharides. This article describes a biotic ingredient to combat dysbiosis and improve skin integrity in acne-prone skin and oily skin

Restoring healthy skin with marine cholesterol

Natura-Tec has developed a Nannochloropsis extract marine ingredient rich in phytocholesterol. This microalgae-derived active has been found to offer strong repairing and boosting properties for the skin barrier function

Next-gen Lactobacillus ferment lysate ingredients

By exploring the prebiotic effect of certain Chinese medicinal plants, SpecChem introduces two new Lactobacillus ferment lysate ingredients for the upgrading of micro-ecological personal care products

Nanocarrier delivery technology in cosmetics

Aneco describes the advantages of different preparation technologies in various types of cosmetics raw materials, providing new innovative technologies and better quality for product applications

Cleaning the skin: easier said than done

The well-established habit of using surfactant-based products to clean the skin has an undeniable destructive effect on our skin barrier. A novel natural solution is to use a particular rice starch that only removes what is on the skin and does not remove the precious skin lipids deeper in the stratum corneum, as Gobiotics explains

Mānuka: unleashing New Zealand’s biodiversity

New Zealand’s indigenous Māori people has long revered the mānuka tree (Leptospermum scoparium) for its myriad medicinal properties. Here, Organic Bioactives presents a novel cosmetic active made using mānuka leaf extract, promising high-efficacy in skin, scalp, and hair care

Liberating the relaxing power of watercress

Muscle contraction and cell signalling linked to wellness mediators share a common mineral-dependent regulation, so Silab has harnessed the mineral richness of the watercress plant to develop a natural relaxing active ingredient

Universal skin-illuminating prebiotic molecule

Givaudan Active Beauty has developed an ingredient that features a skin and prebiotic mode of action that acts holistically on specific skin bacteria, targeting common pigmentation pathways to provide skin brightening and enhance skin radiance, whether the users are in Africa, Asia, Europe or elsewhere

Boosting NAD+ levels for skin longevity

Mibelle Biochemistry investigates the potential of sunflower sprout active, a product derived from organically grown sunflower sprouts, for promoting skin rejuvenation. In vitro and ex vivo studies have shown that sunflower sprouts can combat ageing processes by elevating NAD+ levels, enhancing DNA repair, improving mitochondrial function, and increasing collagen density

Understanding consumer views of colour cosmetics

Eastman recently conducted a study across six countries and 4,000 consumers. The data and resulting insights reveal what drives consumer purchases of colour cosmetics, product features with less consumer satisfaction, consumer knowledge and expectations on sustainability

Microbiological quality of personal care products

Eurofins explores the various methodologies that cosmetics manufacturers can employ to evaluate their products for the presence of microbial contamination, and for the efficacy of their products’ preservatives

INTERVIEW: Taking the chair

Ahead of the 45th annual Suppliers’ Day on 1-2 May, editor Tim Probert caught up with New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists chair Amber Evans and chair-elect John Carola, who is also personal care business development manager of New Jersey-based distributor Katonah Chemical

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