FEATURE ARTICLES
Empowering women: menopausal beauty
Lake Personal Care explains why it expects the hormonal and menopausal beauty market to experience significant growth over the next five years, as consumers become increasingly aware of the impact that hormones have on the skin and will seek out products that address these specific skincare concerns
Isodon japonicus extract to reverse gravity impact
Bioinspired by Isodon japonicus and its ability to stand upright despite the effect of gravity, Codif’s laboratories have developed an extract able to improve the structural quality of the skin in order to decrease signs of ageing while minimizing the impact of gravity constraint on the skin
Using magnolia bark in multifunctionals
Activon investigates the efficiency of Magnolia officinalis bark extract and heptyl undecylenate in antimicrobial activity and preservative effects. The results of this study demonstrate it has a good preservative effect as a natural-derived antimicrobial agent, and is particularly synergic with various preservative
Cleanical – the next big trend in K-Beauty
Ahead of this month’s in-cosmetic Korea conference and exhibition in Seoul, show organiser RX takes a look at the latest trends in K-Beauty
Naturally-derived fruit acids: friendly bacteria
ISCA has developed an aqueous blend of naturally derived fruit acids, suitable for preserving both rinse-off and leave-on cosmetics. It has a broad spectrum of activity and is effective against bacteria, yeast, and mould. The preservative also contains naturally sourced GMO-free Propanediol, which provides improved skin moisturisation characteristics, in addition to boosting the efficacy of the preservative.
COVER STORY: Novel neuroactive for skin and emotional wellbeing
In recent years, the world has faced many environmental, political and economical challenges, that cause stress and anxiety, affecting people’s mental wellbeing and, in turn, their skin. Stress can cause and exacerbate skin imperfections such as rashes, acne, and eczema, which can lead to personal discomfort and further impair emotional wellbeing.
Interview: Doing more with less
Erika Milczek is founder and chief executive of Curie Co, a US industrial biotech outfit that develops engineered enzymes to displace petrochemical-based preservatives. As part of this issue’s focus on preservatives, Erika discusses the potential of engineered enzymes in personal care
Neurocosmetic beauty: bitter receptor activation
By activating the skin’s bitter taste receptors and encouraging calcium influx, personal care products can now alleviate the previous skepticism around neurocosmetics. This development is not merely fascinating for contemplation in a research lab, but now a readily applicable sensory experience for the skin which combines science, innovation, and efficiency into one solution, as Active Concepts explains
Back to basics: the resurgence of retinol
After ‘hiding in plain sight’ for decades, retinol is experiencing a renaissance and a surge in demand - with good reason. BASF explains why consumer demand for retinol continues to surge, what makes retinol such a powerful ingredient, and how to choose the right retinol for your formulation
Rapid microbial methods for a financial boost
Personal care companies that use traditional quality control microbiological methods, also known as compendial or pour plate methods, spend more time testing their products than it takes to make them. It does not need to be that way, as Charles River Laboratories explains
Development of active ingredients in the digital era
Greenpharma believes we are close to personalized cosmetics using data about which ingredients can produce which metabolites to be applied to which skin conditions to have desired appearances. The company has developed tools to perform phytochemical profiling. The goal is to offer a global insight on molecules that can be contained in an extract
Harnessing the power of phospholipids in restorative skin therapy
Tanvi Gavankar, manager of scientific business development at Mumbai, India-based VAV Lipids, takes a look at how phospholipids are advancing the boundaries of skin restoration therapy
Bio-emollient as a high-performing D5 alternative
Lubrizol has developed a bio-emollient as a sustainable solution to those consumers who are looking to replace volatile silicone-based products but do not want to lose performance. It offers the same benefits as volatile silicones such as Cyclopentasiloxane (D5), but without non-biodegradable and bioaccumulative drawbacks
Hydrolyzed proteins for anti-pollution hair care
TRI-K has developed novel technologies, which consist of hydrolyzed rice protein, Adansonia digitata seed extract and Amaranthus caudatus seed extract, which are specifically designed to overcome pollution in hair and to increase shine and moisturization of hair fibres damaged from UV radiation
How cationic surfactants neutralize hair frizz
While many hair care consumers may find frizzy hair annoying, it is far from a permanent or unsolvable hair problem. Natura Aeropack explains how products formulated with coconut-powered active ingredients, paired with healthy hair care practices, can prevent unwanted frizz and help human hair stay in excellent condition for the long term
Chickpea flour as a natural ingredient for skincare
Dr. Ankita Chavan, an Ayurvedic consultant of the Ayusparsh Clinic in the Indian city of Gandhinagar in Gujarat, details a study that assessed the dermatological qualities of a chickpea flour paste
Emulsifiers in personal care: Where do they stand?
Dwiti Gaggar, associate consultant of strategic research and consulting chemical experts ChemBizR, takes an in-depth look at emulsifiers in personal care products.
Biodegradable RM with synthetic performance
Clariant has used its expertise in rheology modifiers and innovate to create ingredients that thicken formulations according to consumer needs without compromising on biodegradability. The Swiss firm’s Aristoflex Eco T is a new class of readily biodegradable modified biopolymer with thickening abilities comparable to a synthetic polymer
Making sense of the skin–brain connection
CLR discusses the role of CB2 (Cannabinoid Receptor Type 2) in skin health and how it is feasible to have a true ‘neurocosmetic’ effect when the possibility exists for a cosmetic active ingredient to act as an agonist to CB2 on the outermost skin cells, the keratinocytes. The German firm has developed a cherimoya-based active to achieve this
Next-gen moisturizer targeting the holobiont
French speciality chemicals maker Greentech has developed a COSMOS-certified organic upcycled active ingredient obtained from a double extraction of organic wild yellow gentian roots and enhanced by fermentation with S. faeni. It has been found to boost HA synthesis and protection against free radicals’ degradation, both in the epidermis and the dermis
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