FEATURE ARTICLES

Lubrizol Life Science has developed a novel peptide that is designed to emulate the skin benefits offered by microcurrent devices, specifically targeting upper facial lifting effects. In vitro, it has been demonstrated to activate the same biological functions as microcurrent stimulation: improving dermal contraction and muscle tone

Editor Tim Probert talks to Olivia Santoni, chief executive and founder of London-based consultancy Bloom Regulatory. Olivia, originally from Paris, established Bloom Regulatory in 2019 to provide expert support to beauty and cosmetics companies worldwide

Driven by the emergence of the concept of diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI), the reprioritization of individual needs progressively drew a new face to beauty, where every individual neither feels excluded nor marginalized. This approach now extends beyond skin color to encompass the specific characteristics of each ethnic group, gender, or stage of life.

Symrise has developed a specific tailor-made process to obtain natural peptides for hair care Composed of native proteins, it will work at the cuticle level to improve hair smoothness, shine and split ends. Utilizing a new strategy to address hair damage, Symrise is now targeting those charged sites within the cortex, creating new interactions and stabilizing the broken bonds in the proteins

While the demand of consumers for proof behind claims is higher than ever, cutting-edge methods are emerging with smart instrumental approach; opening the way to new skincare claims considering holistically all senses. Codif explains how, thanks to tribology, we are now able to study the benefits of anti-ageing strategy on the texture of the skin through its vibrations and the ‘song’ it emits

Bloomage Biotech has harnessed natural green fermentation methods to create ingredients that target multiple anti-ageing pathways to strengthen the barrier of the skin, providing protection against pollutants and UV radiation

Due to evolutionary flaws, we, as humans, are not equipped to age well. CLR has developed a cosmetic active ingredient harnessing decades of skin anti-ageing research by making use of postbiotics, i.e. lysates of probiotic bacteria for the benefit of the skin’s immune system. The ingredient represents the latest innovation of Bifida Ferment Lysate

Gattefossé has introduced an all-natural active ingredient designed to rejuvenate the skin. This innovative solution is derived from the roots of ashwagandha, a renowned adaptogenic herb. It harnesses the herb’s inherent vitality-boosting properties while acting as a shield for skin cells against various aggressors, with a specific focus on combatting digital stress

Innovacos has developed a hair care ingredient that stimulates the expression of main skin components providing hydration and helping regenerate the hair structure. According to in vitro studies, the bamboo vacuolar extract promotes the viability of essential hair components (HHFK and HHFDPC) and prevents hair ageing increasing KAP5 expression

Mibelle Biochemistry describes a new plant-based glycogen, isolated from a special non-GMO sweetcorn, which is chemically identical to glycogen stored in animal cells. In vitro, the phytoglycogen was able to stimulate ATP production and cell metabolism, resulting in increased hyaluronic acid and collagen production

In recent years, there has been a surge in the development of specialised products designed to maintain and support the wellbeing of women’s intimate areas. However, there is a lack of stringent regulations governing the intimate care niche. Yet we can transform the intimate care industry into a realm of safety, efficacy, and genuine care, as Albert Dashi of Sequential explains

Once a popular ingredient in cosmetics, talcums and baby powders, talc has come under question for its potential toxicity. Talc is a soft, smooth and natural mineral that is crushed and refined into a fine powder for use in cosmetic formulations.

There is considerable art, as well as science, in developing products that meet consumer demand for attractive and functional cosmetics. Here, Kelly Dobos of the University of Cincinnati, USA sets out the principles of working with three classes of colourants - dyes, pigments and pearlescent effect pigments - that can be applied broadly to many types of cosmetic products

The world’s leading personal care ingredients trade show, in-cosmetics Global, returns to Paris on 16-18 April. Here, event director Roziani Zulkifli gives an exclusive sneak peek of the Formulation Lab. Sponsored by Brenntag and partnered with Personal Care Global, the purpose-built, fully equipped laboratories located on the show floor will offer up to 27 sessions

DSM-Firmenich personal care president Parand Salmassinia talks to editor Tim Probert about her fascinating journey to become global head of one of the world’s personal care ingredient suppliers, as well as her aspirations in her role at the newly-merged company

Cosmetic formulators are used to working under pressure. In the past this came often from the marketing department, with requests like speeding up formulation work, developing new textures or trying truly new ingredients. In the last years, rapidly increasing external factors, like regulatory requirements, blacklists or exploding costs have added to that pressure, leading to need for constant reformulation.

TRI-K delves into the transformative potential of hydrolyzed moringa protein-based technologies in hair care.

Mark Cresswell of Lucideon explains how the company was able to provide its partner with working formulations that they could take directly into more advanced consumer product testing trials and full manufacturing feasibility assessment by establishing suitable key formulations to develop successful product formats

Vytrus Biotech has developed a 100% natural active ingredient derived from natural Centella peptides. This Centella asiatica product offers a range of benefits, including firming, anti-sagging, anti-wrinkles, reversion of cellular senescence, and the protection of telomeres

The hair shaft is composed of a cuticle, cortex and medulla. The cuticle is the outermost protective layer (consisting of overlapping scale-like cells) that provides the hair sensory and shine characteristics.