FEATURE ARTICLES

Tapping its J-Beauty expertise, Kao Chemicals Europe unveils a cholesteryl ester with a skin biomimetic structure and a low melting point, and with moisturizing and repairing properties

Shell discusses the findings of a global survey on changing consumer demands and preferences for personal care products in terms of their performance and sustainability credentials

in-cosmetics Global event director Roziani Zulkifli details what visitors to the trade show in Paris can expect for this year’s edition + a round-up of show floor highlights from selected exhibitors

Mintel beauty and personal care principal analyst KinShen Chan shares his considerable insight on a wide range of current and possible future global trends

We learned from history that natural products do not always chime with sustainable products. In some cases, the increase of intensive agribusiness has compromised essential biodiversity. We can mention the recent case of the Brazilian Cerrado, the Brazil’s second-largest biome (after the Amazon Rainforest), and the world’s most biodiverse savanna, currently threatened because of sugarcane, soya, corn, sorghum, and cotton cultivation expansion.^1,2

Bacteria use a cell-to-cell communication system called quorum sensing (QS) to share information about cell density and adjust gene expression accordingly. This article explains BASF studies into how natural plant extracts are able to quench QS signals from P. aeruginosa and S. aureus. Then, it checked if their effect on QS was followed by a decrease in virulence, determined by both bacteria motility and lipase secretion

Sunscreen formulations are complex and multi-component systems that are based on either organic UV filters, inorganic UV filters, or both. As formulators navigate the complexities of sunscreen development, Croda provides detailed insights into how microscopy can enhance the understanding of formulation microstructure, offering valuable information beyond what is visible to the naked eye

Lignin is a widely available biopolymer with UV protection and antioxidant properties, but traditional bulk lignins are unsuitable for cosmetics. Lignovations has developed a patented and green technology to produce colloidal lignin particles (CLP). In this article, CLP is demonstrated to be an effective SPF booster in organic and mineral sunscreen products

Lubrizol Life Science has developed a novel peptide that is designed to emulate the skin benefits offered by microcurrent devices, specifically targeting upper facial lifting effects. In vitro, it has been demonstrated to activate the same biological functions as microcurrent stimulation: improving dermal contraction and muscle tone

Editor Tim Probert talks to Olivia Santoni, chief executive and founder of London-based consultancy Bloom Regulatory. Olivia, originally from Paris, established Bloom Regulatory in 2019 to provide expert support to beauty and cosmetics companies worldwide

Driven by the emergence of the concept of diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI), the reprioritization of individual needs progressively drew a new face to beauty, where every individual neither feels excluded nor marginalized. This approach now extends beyond skin color to encompass the specific characteristics of each ethnic group, gender, or stage of life.

Symrise has developed a specific tailor-made process to obtain natural peptides for hair care Composed of native proteins, it will work at the cuticle level to improve hair smoothness, shine and split ends. Utilizing a new strategy to address hair damage, Symrise is now targeting those charged sites within the cortex, creating new interactions and stabilizing the broken bonds in the proteins

While the demand of consumers for proof behind claims is higher than ever, cutting-edge methods are emerging with smart instrumental approach; opening the way to new skincare claims considering holistically all senses. Codif explains how, thanks to tribology, we are now able to study the benefits of anti-ageing strategy on the texture of the skin through its vibrations and the ‘song’ it emits

Bloomage Biotech has harnessed natural green fermentation methods to create ingredients that target multiple anti-ageing pathways to strengthen the barrier of the skin, providing protection against pollutants and UV radiation

Due to evolutionary flaws, we, as humans, are not equipped to age well. CLR has developed a cosmetic active ingredient harnessing decades of skin anti-ageing research by making use of postbiotics, i.e. lysates of probiotic bacteria for the benefit of the skin’s immune system. The ingredient represents the latest innovation of Bifida Ferment Lysate

Gattefossé has introduced an all-natural active ingredient designed to rejuvenate the skin. This innovative solution is derived from the roots of ashwagandha, a renowned adaptogenic herb. It harnesses the herb’s inherent vitality-boosting properties while acting as a shield for skin cells against various aggressors, with a specific focus on combatting digital stress

Innovacos has developed a hair care ingredient that stimulates the expression of main skin components providing hydration and helping regenerate the hair structure. According to in vitro studies, the bamboo vacuolar extract promotes the viability of essential hair components (HHFK and HHFDPC) and prevents hair ageing increasing KAP5 expression

Mibelle Biochemistry describes a new plant-based glycogen, isolated from a special non-GMO sweetcorn, which is chemically identical to glycogen stored in animal cells. In vitro, the phytoglycogen was able to stimulate ATP production and cell metabolism, resulting in increased hyaluronic acid and collagen production

In recent years, there has been a surge in the development of specialised products designed to maintain and support the wellbeing of women’s intimate areas. However, there is a lack of stringent regulations governing the intimate care niche. Yet we can transform the intimate care industry into a realm of safety, efficacy, and genuine care, as Albert Dashi of Sequential explains

Once a popular ingredient in cosmetics, talcums and baby powders, talc has come under question for its potential toxicity. Talc is a soft, smooth and natural mineral that is crushed and refined into a fine powder for use in cosmetic formulations.