RECENT FEATURE ARTICLES
Beneficial skin properties of olive tree leaves
Sara Gonçalves and Isabel Gaivão of the University of Trás-os-Montes and Alto Douro, Portugal discuss a study that aims to present a method for easy preparation of an olive tree leaves tincture that can be incorporated into a cosmetic product and reproduced in a domestic environment
Catching a cosmetics wave in Long Beach
Angie Inouye, Chair of the 2023 California Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Suppliers’ Day exhibition and conference previews this year’s show at the Long Beach Convention Centre. Cali SCC is a biennial event and delivers over 250 exhibitors under one roof, including raw material suppliers, contract manufacturers, equipment manufacturers, testing companies and skilled formulation experts, presenting their latest products and technologies
INTERVIEW: Trends, blends and the metaverse
Arnita Wofford is the global marketing and technical director for beauty & personal care at Univar Solutions, the Illinois, USA-headquartered chemical and ingredients distributor and provider of value-added services. Here, Paris-based Arnita shares her extensive industry insight on the latest personal care trends with editor Tim Probert
COVER STORY: Amaretine® : Bitter-sweet synergy for sensitive skin
Sensitive skin, which typically presents as dryness, redness, itching, and an overall sensory discomfort is a sign of an impaired epidermal skin barrier and ongoing inflammatory processes. It is one of the top skin care concerns with around 60% of consumers affected worldwide, and with many experiencing a negative impact on their quality of life
Retinol-like zinc hexapeptide complex
Acne vulgaris is a common chronic skin disease affecting individuals of all ages. The pathogenesis of acne is characterized by four core events: hyperseborrhoea, epithelial hyperkeratinization, Cutibacterium acnes colonization and inflammation.1 Due to the multifactorial nature of the disease, a combination therapy or use of multifunctional compounds are the preferred approaches.
EU Cosmetic Regulations amendments – an update
In the July 2022 edition of Personal Care Global, I reviewed changes to the European Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, the European Union’s notifications to the World Trade Organisation of its intention to prohibit the use or certain nanomaterials and the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) opinions on ingredients which may have endocrine properties
Biomimetic anti-sagging ingredient with eco-designed extraction process
Seppic’s beauty care markets & digital manager Marine Pasquier discusses anti-sagging marine ingredient Sagacious (Propanediol, Himanthalia elongata extract), a concatenation of innovations from biomimetic inspiration, to the responsible harvesting and traceability of seaweed, to the innovative 'Cœur d'algue' extraction process
Face sculpting with rosewood biofunctional
Ashland has developed a biofunctional from a rosewood extract designed to increase key influential markers involved in face sculpting, following ethnogenomic research in facial morphology and face sculpting. It is associated with seven visible skin benefits clinically proven
Biopolymers for rheology and sensory modification
Consumer demand for formulations using renewable ingredients has been steadily increasing in recent years, prompting more investigations into the use of biopolymers to replace existing ingredients with sustainable alternatives. IFF describes some features of two biopolymers that can effectively deliver rheology, sensory, and conditioning properties for various product formats
Empowering women: menopausal beauty
Lake Personal Care explains why it expects the hormonal and menopausal beauty market to experience significant growth over the next five years, as consumers become increasingly aware of the impact that hormones have on the skin and will seek out products that address these specific skincare concerns
Isodon japonicus extract to reverse gravity impact
Bioinspired by Isodon japonicus and its ability to stand upright despite the effect of gravity, Codif’s laboratories have developed an extract able to improve the structural quality of the skin in order to decrease signs of ageing while minimizing the impact of gravity constraint on the skin
Using magnolia bark in multifunctionals
Activon investigates the efficiency of Magnolia officinalis bark extract and heptyl undecylenate in antimicrobial activity and preservative effects. The results of this study demonstrate it has a good preservative effect as a natural-derived antimicrobial agent, and is particularly synergic with various preservative
Cleanical – the next big trend in K-Beauty
Ahead of this month’s in-cosmetic Korea conference and exhibition in Seoul, show organiser RX takes a look at the latest trends in K-Beauty
Naturally-derived fruit acids: friendly bacteria
ISCA has developed an aqueous blend of naturally derived fruit acids, suitable for preserving both rinse-off and leave-on cosmetics. It has a broad spectrum of activity and is effective against bacteria, yeast, and mould. The preservative also contains naturally sourced GMO-free Propanediol, which provides improved skin moisturisation characteristics, in addition to boosting the efficacy of the preservative.
COVER STORY: Novel neuroactive for skin and emotional wellbeing
In recent years, the world has faced many environmental, political and economical challenges, that cause stress and anxiety, affecting people’s mental wellbeing and, in turn, their skin. Stress can cause and exacerbate skin imperfections such as rashes, acne, and eczema, which can lead to personal discomfort and further impair emotional wellbeing.
Interview: Doing more with less
Erika Milczek is founder and chief executive of Curie Co, a US industrial biotech outfit that develops engineered enzymes to displace petrochemical-based preservatives. As part of this issue’s focus on preservatives, Erika discusses the potential of engineered enzymes in personal care
Neurocosmetic beauty: bitter receptor activation
By activating the skin’s bitter taste receptors and encouraging calcium influx, personal care products can now alleviate the previous skepticism around neurocosmetics. This development is not merely fascinating for contemplation in a research lab, but now a readily applicable sensory experience for the skin which combines science, innovation, and efficiency into one solution, as Active Concepts explains
Rapid microbial methods for a financial boost
Personal care companies that use traditional quality control microbiological methods, also known as compendial or pour plate methods, spend more time testing their products than it takes to make them. It does not need to be that way, as Charles River Laboratories explains
Back to basics: the resurgence of retinol
After ‘hiding in plain sight’ for decades, retinol is experiencing a renaissance and a surge in demand - with good reason. BASF explains why consumer demand for retinol continues to surge, what makes retinol such a powerful ingredient, and how to choose the right retinol for your formulation
Development of active ingredients in the digital era
Greenpharma believes we are close to personalized cosmetics using data about which ingredients can produce which metabolites to be applied to which skin conditions to have desired appearances. The company has developed tools to perform phytochemical profiling. The goal is to offer a global insight on molecules that can be contained in an extract
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