Spanish cosmetic actives maker Vytrus Biotech has taken the wraps off Toleroxyl, a so-called immune re-education skin care ingredient, at in-cosmetics Korea in Seoul.
The new active is said to be a ‘tolerogen’ – a new cosmetic concept invented by the Barcelona outfit – that trains the skin’s immune system to generate tolerance rather than simply addressing visible signs of reactivity.
Instead of suppressing inflammation, it educates immune cells to stop overreacting to harmless stimuli.
Developed through the Barcelona company’s biotechnology platforms and inspired by the skin’s own biological signals, Toleroxyl targets Langerhans cells (LC) - the immune decision-makers of the epidermis.
Toleroxyl binds to receptors of GM-CSF, a human protein involved in the differentiation, survival and functional programming of LC.
The ingredient triggers a key cell signaling pathway that controls immune responses - to keep these cells in a calm, tolerance-supporting state.
Calmed LC secrete TGF-β, which helps reduce inflammatory signals (TNF-α, IL-8 and IL-6), promoting a healthy, non-inflamed skin environment.
By reprogramming LC into a 'tolerogenic' state, Toleroxyl helps reduce inflammation at its source and restore the skin's natural immune balance.
Produced using plants as biofactories, Toleroxyl is designed from a human signal and grown through a sustainable plant-based recombinant protein platform.
“With Toleroxyl, Vytrus Biotech introduces a new cosmetic category designed for the era of hyperreactive urban skin,” said a spokesman.
“By combining plant biotechnology, recombinant protein science and a novel tolerogenic mechanism, the company offers formulators a new way to address sensitive skin: not by masking the signal, but by helping the skin relearn tolerance,” he added.
