FEATURE ARTICLES
Bioactive peptides for hair restructuring and hair plex
Italian cosmetic active producer Kalichem explains how bioactive peptides represent an ideal solution to promote plex, restructuring, hydration, combing improvement, volumising, detangling, antistatic, conditioning, and luminosity effects in hair care
The whys and wherefores of waterless formulating
Jessica Dynda of US personal ingredient supplier Koster Keunen takes a comprehensive look at the opportunities and challenges of developing solid format products and what it takes to formulate reliable and stable products successfully
Roles of dextrin palmitate in waterless formulating
École de Biologie Industrielle, Inabata France and FRM GaleSens explain why dextrin palmitate is much more than just a thickening agent and that it can be used to structure more complex solid formulas for developing waterless cleansing cosmetic products
Interview: Dr Katerina Steventon - Taking skin care beyond the surface
Editor Tim Probert discusses the future of skin care with Dr Katerina Steventon, a Czech skin scientist, consultant, practitioner, brand owner and scientific programme director of the recent 8th Anti-Ageing Skin Care Conference in London
Upcycled fragrance waste for cosmetic actives
IFF/Lucas Meyer Cosmetics explain why upcycled Schinus terebinthifolia and Lavandula angustifolia extracts are good examples of how the recently created synergy between the fragrance and cosmetic industries can produce original, upcycled and sustainable cosmetic ingredients with interesting effects
Naturals: Colour without compromise
Cosmetic ingredient supplier Azelis takes a wide-ranging look at the various options available for formulators to achieve colour from many natural sources, with solutions ranging from minerals found in stones, plant seeds oils and flowers for use in powders, oils and extracts
Revitalising hair beauty with aminosilicones
Since the pandemic, consumers have adopted new trends such as do-it-yourself beauty care and demanding high-performance hair care products that can achieve similar result as in a salon. BRB Silicones looks at how its aminosilicones are specially developed in response to meet this demand to provide multi benefits in conditioning, colour protection, hair shininess, hair manageability and hair smoothness
Nano olive oil as potential silicone substitute
Vietnamese outfit Wakamono is developing Nano Olive Oil, which it says is extracted from natural ingredients, safe and friendly to environment and has the potential to completely replace or reduce the use of silicone and polyquaternium in shampoo while maintaining product effectiveness
Mild cleansers with 'sulfate-free' surfactants
Innospec Performance Chemicals has developed a wide range of chemistries based on both (alkyl) acyl amino acids and acyl (methyl) isethionate chemistries to improve skin mildness in formulations
3D modelling of Malassezia furfur skin interaction
Straticell illustrates in a 3D model that Malassezia furfur invades the upper layers of the reconstructed epidermis with deleterious impacts on the barrier function, inducing an effective immune and inflammatory response, at both gene and protein levels
The present and future of skin microbiome testing
The human skin microbiome has recently become a focus for cosmetic industries. Improving our understanding of host-microbial interactions and how to maintain its delicate balance is essential for the development of new cosmetic formulations. Here, Eurofins proposes an integrated approach to support the analysis of microbiome sequencing data by use of skin biophysical measurements
Multiethnic active for exposome protection
Lipotec has discovered a new, natural active biotech ingredient, Xpozuki, which is able to protect the skin, scalp, and hair against the exposome. On the skin and scalp, it can protect against oxidative damage, and on the hair fibre, it can protect against protein carbonylation and lipid peroxidation.
Benefits of astaxanthin for anti-pollution
Austrian outfit BDI-BioLife Science has developed its own raw material containing 5% of astaxanthin. The properties of the red diamond have been substantiated by in vivo and in vitro proof of efficacy. While its effect against blue light-induced stress has already been proven in preliminary studies, the current research takes a closer look at the issue of blue light
Anti-pollution benefits of multi-tasking esterquats
US firm Stepan Personal Care initiated laboratory testing for its two novel skin and hair conditioning esterquats to see if they could provide anti-pollution properties. Test results showed Stepanquat Helia and Stepanquat Soleil can build a film on the skin and hair that then protected them against the adhesion of polluting microparticles
Carbon-14 testing to authenticate bio-based hand sanitizers
Ivanna Olvera of Miami-based radiocarbon dating service specialists Beta Analytic explains how Carbon-14 testing can be used as an accurate method to authenticate bio-based hand sanitizers.
Natural molecule offering anti-pollution benefits
German active ingredient supplier bitop explains why the natural extremolyte Ectoin is suited for cosmetic formulations for all skin types, matching various consumer demands and market trends such as anti-pollution, blue light protection and whitening
COVER STORY: Going the extra mile with hectorite clay
Sunscreen systems are often exposed to extreme conditions yet must consistently deliver the active ingredient to provide uniform protection. With the popularity of clean beauty, mineral sunscreens are gaining more attentions as they are more sensitive skin friendly and environment friendly.
INTERVIEW: Kayla Villena, Euromonitor International head of beauty & personal care
Ahead of in-cosmetics Asia in Bangkok, editor Tim Probert caught up with Kayla Villena – head of beauty & personal care at market research provider Euromonitor International – for some insight on the latest industry trends in the region
Improving the efficacy and skin feel of hand sanitisers
Ashland explains why cellulose-derived rheology modifiers can improve the sustainability profile of sanitisers while improving the moisturisation and skin feel effects
Postbiotics for hair and scalp microbiome balance
Kalichem presents its Kalibiome postbiotic ingredients, which due to their powdery and preservative-free nature, their hydro-solubility and lack of interaction with cosmetics preservatives, are said to be suitable for several applications
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World leader in the engineering of natural active ingredients
A French independent company, SILAB has been recognized for its expertise in skin biology and in mastering plants and biotechnologies for 40 years. It provides patented active ingredients with proven efficacy and safety, intended for major names in global cosmetic and dermo-cosmetic...
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