Royal DSM has received approval for its Syn-Up skincare peptide as a New Cosmetic Ingredient (NCI) in China under the country’s new legislation.
The company says it has become the first company to receive NCI approval in the stringent NCI category 3 and confirms the ingredient meets the highest levels of quality and safety for an active peptide, and can be used freely in formulations worldwide.
Under legislation that came into force in May 2021, NCI registration is based on risk level. While new cosmetic ingredients with a function of high risk must undergo a full registration procedure, other ingredients can undergo a quicker, notification procedure.
However, in both cases, the dossier requirements are the same and NCI notification is still subject to strict post-approval inspection, making the need for a good quality dossier essential.
There are six categories of NCI approval based on an ingredient’s risk function and whether evidence of three years’ safe use in cosmetics can be provided.
With Syn-Up, DSM has become the first international company to achieve NCI approval in the most stringent of these categories, namely category 3.
To achieve category 3 approval, DSM had to demonstrate it met five specific criteria over three years of use.
To this end, a dedicated project team began working on NCI registration for the peptide in 2016.
Jocelyn Jiao, DSM Regulatory Affairs Manager Greater China said: “Extensive data on safety, quality and efficacy is required for new product registration in China.
“Our project team has worked tirelessly for several years to achieve NCI registration for Syn-Up and their hard work has paid off as it is the high-quality dossier they prepared and submitted that has convinced the authorities here.”