FEATURE ARTICLES

Christina He, Isabelle Van Reeth – Dow Corning (Shanghai)

In today’s skin care market trend, we clearly see that the emotional benefit (i.e. what the consumer feels from the products) is becoming increasingly important in addition to the functional performance.

With its 28% share of global sales,1 Asia now ranks as the world’s second largest personal care market after Europe and ahead of North America.

While flourishing, Asia is clamouring for further knowledge and innovation and significantly helping to priovide this is in-cosmetics Asia, the science, business and networking platform for the personal care ingredients industry in the region. Following on from Seoul in 2006 and Guangzhou in 2007, in-cosmetics Asia (formerly called PCIA) is returning to Thailand in November after a three-year absence.

Wen Schroeder — SEKI Cosmeticals, USA

According to a market research report published in February 2005 by BCC Research, baby boomers’ unprecedented purchasing power, coupled with the youthdominated cultural shift and modern technological advancement have fuelled a rapidly growing US anti-ageing industry that exceeded $45.5 billion in 2004 ($7.7 billion of which was spent on appearance products alone).

Pamela Jones – Special Correspondent

The Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists recently held its annual conference at the Marriott Resort on the Gold Coast, Queensland, and the theme of the event was “Cosmetic Science – Creating the Vision”.

Dr Sergio Amari, Alain Thibodeau Ph.D. – B&T, Italy

The skin is externally located and thus serves as a sheath separating internal organs from direct contact with the environment.

Despite this perception as an inert envelop, the skin is a very complex and metabolically active tissue endowed with both intracrine and paracrine capabilities. The main roles of the skin are: protection from UV radiation (melanogenesis), immune defence and a barrier function preventing the penetration of foreign particles.

Pamela Jones – Special Correspondent

Heralded as the “New World Economy”, many sectors of the Asian market are booming, largely driven by the stellar performance of two prodigious markets, China and India.

Emilie Desmarthon, Manuel De Arriba – LCW-Sensient Cosmetic Technologies, France

New generations of anti-ageing products have been formulated according to optical rules, giving the consumer an immediate, visual improvement.

Pierfrancesco Morganti — II Università di Napoli / Mavi Sud–Aprilia, Italy

7. Morganti — Mavi Sud–Aprilia, Italy

The cosmetic market, even though considered mature in many areas, is still increasing in size globally and reached a value of US $200 billion in 2007 (Fig. 1).

Wenjun Huang – Euromonitor International, Shanghai, China

According to Euromonitor International, the global cosmetics and toiletries market kept growing in the review period – by 2006, the market had expanded by US $60 bn since 2001 in terms of retail value based on current prices, growing at more than 5% CAGR (Fig. 1).

China’s only dedicated event for the Chinese personal care and homecare ingredients markets, PCHi (www.pchichina. com), received overwhelming positive feedback from exhibitors and attendees at the recent edition in Shanghai, says Reed Sinopharm Exhibitions (RSE), organiser of the event.

in-cosmetics, the leading global business platform for personal care ingredients, is taking place from 15 to 17 April 2008 at the Amsterdam RAI, The Netherlands.

Ken Jones – Aloecorp Inc., USA

Over the past two decades, skin care has advanced at a rate rivalling that of technology. Just as it used be enough for cell phones to simply make phone calls, it used to be enough for skin care products to simply cleanse, tone and moisturise.

Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH – Technical Editor

The natural world is abundant in fatty acids that are beneficial to both body and skin, internally and externally. Table 1 gives some of the examples according to carbon numbers and double bonds present.

Yoshihito Kawashima, Akinori Kiso, Naoko Kishida, Yoko Ito, Nobuaki Ohto and Toshimitsu Kambara – Maruzen Pharmaceuticals Co Ltd, Japan

Conspicuous pores, which can be caused by excess of sebum secretion, sagging of the skin and parakeratosis, constitute one of the major skin problems faced by women.1,2

Hai Zhou Zhang, Jinx Ya Dai, Phoeby Wong – Evonik Degussa (China)

Despite a long history of study and application for water-in-oil emulsions, there has been little research on waterin- oil quick breaking emulsions.

Prof Dr Johann W. Wiechers – JW Solutions, The Netherlands

Many active ingredients have been introduced into the cosmetic market over the last ten years, so one would expect that cosmetic products have become much more active over this decade as well.

Stéphanie Garcel, Emmanuelle Merat, Chantal Amalric, Alicia Roso – Seppic, France

Fluid formulas are generally well appreciated by consumers as they encourage even and smooth application. However, the main difficulty with these is the combining of good flowing properties with reproducible viscosities and good stability, especially at higher temperatures.

Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH – Technical Editor

In Dominica this year, I visited one of the many volcanic pools in the area and also purchased a tourist sample of the mud extracted out of this hot, spluttering ferment. Local people have a superb knowledge of their local flora and ethnopharmaceutical remedies, but they also placed great store by the muds and silts that are prevalent in the area.

Dr Antonella Sciocco Saita, Dr Federico Sala – Vitatene

Carotenoids are widely spread in nature, being responsible for the characteristic yellow to red colours in many natural products, such as carrots, peppers, tomatoes, flowers and several microorganisms, including algae and fungi.

D.Boudier, E.Perez, D.Rondeau, S.Bordes, B.Closs — Silab, France

11. Saetun –Spincontrol Asia, Thailand

Visible pigmentation of the human skin depends primarily on the functions of melanocytes, a very minor population of cells which are specialised in the synthesis and distribution of melanin, through a process called melanogenesis.