New peptide promotes skin firming and remodelling

 The efficacy of the glycerine-based aqueous solution was studied in a double-blind, parallel group study in which an emulsion containing either 2.5% of the tripeptide solution or none, was applied twice daily to the face and forearms of 41 female volunteers. After 56 days, skin tension was found to be increased by 9% compared to placebo, while tonicity improved by 27% and firmness by 8% in 84% of subjects. The tripeptide also had a significant and visible effect on the contours of the face, reducing skin sagging in 74% and the double chin in 58% of subjects.

The extracellular matrix in the dermal part of the skin represents the basement and as such it gives the right stability and structure to the skin. Hyaluronan and collagen are among the major constituents of the ECM and it is well known that skin ageing is essentially based on degenerative processes of these constituents of the extracellular matrix. A new glycerine-based, aqueous peptide solution has been developed for use as a bioactive ingredient in cosmetic products to reduce the most visible signs of ageing. The solution stimulates biosynthesis of hyaluronan in the dermis and increases expression of the proteoglycans, decorin and lumican, as demonstrated by in vitro testing on normal human dermal fibroblasts. In this randomised, controlled, doubleblind, parallel-groups study, the efficacy of the solution was tested on 41 women between the ages of 56 and 65 years. Primary assessment criteria were volume variations and modification of facial contours (vertical profile, horizontal profile and face volume) compared to baseline values and variations in skin biomechanical properties (suppleness, tension, tonicity and firmness) in treated vs. untreated skin and compared to placebo. Subject responses to an evaluation questionnaire and macrophotographic illustrations of the expected visual effect were assessed as secondary criteria. The formulation has been subjected to rigorous safety testing. No tests were performed on animals.

Materials and methods