The move away from cyclic silicones is accelerating a broader rethink of texture design. With high-purity, petro-based but biodegradable linear paraffinic emollients—and careful attention to volatility, rheology, dispersion and film formation—formulators can still deliver modern, elegant sensorials, as Thomas Swan & Co explains.
As regulatory pressure intensifies across the EU and UK, the role of cyclic silicones in cosmetics is undergoing rapid reassessment. Materials such as D4 (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane), D5 (decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) and D6 (dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane) have long shaped the sensorial character of formulations, offering slip, spreadability and the familiar light, silky feel consumers expect. But with growing environmental concerns around persistence and bioaccumulation, formulators are increasingly seeking alternatives that deliver comparable performance without regulatory complexity.
As EU/UK restrictions tighten on D4, D5 and D6, reformulation has shifted from 'sometime soon' to 'right now' for many brands. This feature explains what cyclic silicones do in formulas, what changes when you remove them, and how biodegradable, linear paraffinic emollients can be used to rebuild the sensory profiles consumers expect with longer term regulatory confidence.
Since 2019, cyclic silicones have been closely watched by regulatory bodies. D4 was one of the first to be restricted and is prohibited for cosmetic use in the EU, with only unavoidable traces (≤0.1%) permitted. This is due to its Carcinogenic, Mutagenic or Reprotoxic (CMR) status, which automatically moves it to Annex II of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009.
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