Gattefossé is actively exploring the potential of hippophae rhamnoides, commonly known as sea buckthorn, as a botanical powerhouse in the world of skincare.
As consumers increasingly turn to holistic cosmetics that address both internal and external stressors, wellness-driven ingredients like sea buckthorn are rising in popularity. This resilient plant, often hailed as a heroine of the plant kingdom, holds immense promise for cosmetic innovation.
Unveiling the hidden potential of sea buckthorn
Native to the cold-temperate regions of Europe and Asia, sea buckthorn is a hardy, adaptable shrub known primarily for its edible and vibrant orange berries. Long valued in horticulture, ecological restoration, traditional medicine, and food production, sea buckthorn has more recently gained recognition in the nutraceutical sector for its immune-boosting and health-supportive properties. The tree's capacity to flourish in arid, extreme climates is a testament to its robust internal defense system. This adaptability stems from its rich and varied phytochemical profile, which is found throughout the plant, not just in the berries, which have dominated commercial use so far.
However, sea buckthorn potential extends far beyond its fruit. Of particular interest are the leaves, an underutilized part of the plant. Though research remains limited, existing studies point to impressive biological activities: antiviral, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant. Intriguingly, the phytochemical diversity in the leaves may even surpass that of the berries or roots. The leaves are rich in polyphenols – including flavonoids, phenolic acids, and tannins – as well as lipophilic compounds like triterpenes, sterols, and tocopherols, contributing to their high antioxidant potential.
As consumer demand for superfood-derived ingredients continues to grow, sea buckthorn is poised to become a rising star in skincare and cosmetic formulations.
One plant, two bioactives,
In a bold move to unlock the full value of sea buckthorn, Gattefossé turned its attention to the overlooked leaves, applying advanced extraction technologies and its deep expertise in plant chemistry.
- Eyeglorius™: a targeted oil-soluble anti-fatigue solution
Launched in 2024, Eyeglorius™ is a lipophilic anti-fatigue active ingredient developed through supercritical CO₂ extraction. This technique isolates the apolar molecules in the leaves, such as triterpenoid acids and phytosterols—compounds known to support microcirculation and reduce vascular permeability, two key mechanisms involved in the formation of dark circles and eye bags. The oil-soluble nature of Eyeglorius™ makes it ideal for use in anti-fatigue skincare and makeup formulations.
- Noxifense™: a shield against skin sensitivity
Building on this momentum, and using alternative extraction methods, Gattefossé continued its exploration of the leaves, this time targeting specific polyphenols, such as flavonol glycosides and ellagitannins known for their powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. The result: Noxifense™, an active that brings new potential to skincare designed for environmentally-stressed skin.
Noxifense™ provides a comprehensive strategy for sensitive skin care by addressing the novel concept of "oxi-inflammation"– the harmful cycle connecting oxidative stress and inflammation. The outcome is a calming and protective ingredient specifically formulated to boost sensitive skins’s resilience to the exposome.
