We all know that naturality is no longer just a trend, it is a prerequisite for any new cosmetic product launch. Indeed, it is one of the main consumer expectations, not only in Europe but throughout the world.
Meanwhile, formulating a natural cosmetic product is not that simple, for various reasons:
· The naturality of a cosmetic ingredient is not always clearly indicated, and the calculation methods used vary from one supplier to another (ISO 16128, COSMOS...)
· The formula stability is an essential point to check before launching a new product
· The formula must be perfectly tolerated by all skin types
· Textures must always bring innovation to attract consumers’ attention
· Sensoriality is a key factor that drives purchase intention
Formulating a natural cosmetic product therefore takes longer, whereas development times decrease year after year. This can become a real headache for the formulator. There is a growing need for truly versatile new ingredients. Gattefossé decided to push the limits of their patented wax butter technology to develop the most advanced emulsifier of their natural range, Emulium® Dolcea MB.
The most robust of Gattefossé’s natural emulsifiers
Emulium Dolcea MB is a PEG-free O/W emulsifier of 100% natural origin, easy to formulate and flexible which enables formulating from fluid textures to thick butters.
Its composition has been finely tuned to provide the best performance/stability/sensory combination.
As a result, Emulium Dolcea MB is capable of emulsifying and stabilising emulsions with a high amount of oil phase (up to 40%). In the form of pellets, it is very easy to formulate, does not require high shear and creates very fine emulsions. Flexible, it can be incorporated in the oil phase or in the water phase if necessary and can be used in a concentrated emulsion process to save energy and time.
An extreme softness
The sensory personality of Emulium Dolcea MB is characterised by an extreme softness in particular on skin afterfeel. This softness can be attributed to the mixed esters of jojoba and sunflower which combine spreadability and body.
48H moisturisation
A natural and simple emulsion containing 4% of Emulium Dolcea MB was tested on women with dry skin. Skin moisture measurements were performed before the first application, after 28 days, 24h and 48h after the last application to assess skin moisture remanence.
Results showed that the cream containing Emulium Dolcea MB significantly improves the skin moisture level compared to the untreated area, up to 48h after the last application.
Readily biodegradable formulas
The biodegradability of a leave-on skin care cream containing 4% of Emulium Dolcea MB has been tested. Results show that 97% of the cream, in equivalent organic carbon, has been biodegraded after only 28 days.
To learn more about Emulium® Dolcea MB, visit https://www.gattefosse.com/personal-care-textures/emulium-dolcea-mb.
