FEATURE ARTICLES

Despite promotions on personal care products being at an all-time high, growth in sales across Europe is declining, and price increases have become difficult to justify. With promotions no longer exciting consumers and driving increased volume sales the way they used to, a need for innovation has come to the fore.

A large number of ingredients are used in cosmetic applications. Lipids are commonly known as water non-soluble compounds. Depending on their structure, they can be classified as: fluid lipids (oils), pasty lipids (butters) or solid (waxes). Lipids are constituted by triglycerides (esters) and a fraction called ‘insaponifiable content’.

At this year’s in-cosmetics show in Hamburg, there was a wide array of new ingredients designed to make stand-out products in the hair market. From styling polymers to conditioning agents, there was plenty to support formulators in their quest to develop new products in what is an increasingly competitive and demanding environment.

Exposure to sunlight is of the utmost importance in vitamin D3 formation and has the additional cosmetically desirable effect of imparting a bronzed tanned glow to our skin in the summer months.

An antimicrobial agent is a chemical compound added to cosmetic products that inhibits the growth of, or inactivates, pathogens or spoilage microorganisms. If a cosmetic product becomes contaminated with microorganisms such as bacteria, yeast and moulds and is then applied to damaged or broken skin, it has the potential to cause irritation or infection.

Imagine a world without preservatives. Shampoo would be packaged in single-use packets. Face cream would be stored in the refrigerator and disposed of after about a week.

As the personal care industry evolves, formulators are seeking innovative solutions for their formulations’ needs. There is increased interest in ingredients that can offer multiple functions within a formulation.

The development of any cosmetic product focuses generally on two factors: efficacy and safety. Both factors are closely related to the concentration of use, either because a minimum amount of assets are required in order to obtain visible results, or to adjust the amount to avoid unwanted effects.

A recent study conducted by L’Oréal India has given weight to the position that one of the most effective ways of achieving and maintaining a lighter complexion is to regularly use sun care products.

With the Asia Pacific cosmetics industry among the fastest growing markets in the world, the innovation on offer in the region is leading to new trends and unique opportunities for exciting product development.

Being home to two-thirds of the global population, Asia Pacific is a true lure for beauty and personal care brands. In China alone, the estimated population in 2015 is 1.39 billion. With the 1,020,000 Chinese millionaires and over 60,000 ‘super-rich’, China is poised to consume one-third of global luxury goods.

Twenty-first century cosmetics has always been driven by consumer needs which require perceived performance.

The base formula of a cosmetic product contributes greatly to its success, not only in terms of the pleasure it provides upon application but also in terms of efficacy. The base must not be considered only as the sensorial part of a formula but also as a key element to improve the clinical results.

An infant’s skin varies greatly from adult skin, the barrier it provides from the outside world continues to develop over the early years, during which time it is much more prone to developing conditions rarer in adults.

Zemea biobased propanediol (INCI: Propanediol), manufactured by DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products, is a natural, preservative-boosting humectant and solvent. It can be used to replace or augment petroleum based glycols such as propylene glycol (PG), butylene glycol (BG) or glycerin in cosmetic and personal care formulations.

Dry shampoo is by no means a new innovation, but sales have surged recently, and there are many reasons behind this rapid growth. Modern, busy women swear by dry shampoos, and top-rated stylists around the world consider them to be an indispensible tool in their arsenal. This skip-a-day style saver instantly refreshes hair, so that ‘no shampoo’ thing can be a woman’s clean little secret.

Lemon scented tea tree, Leptospermum petersonii (L. petersonii), produces a unique essential oil with many attributes.

Essential oils have been a major part of our social history, having been used in pharmacology, aromatherapy, as well as cosmetics for many hundreds of years. These volatile aroma compounds can bring many positive attributes to formulas with antioxidative, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity presented in many cases, as well as uplifting and calming influences from their aromas.

It is well known that lifestyle factors such as sun bathing or smoking and environmental factors such as pollution accelerate skin ageing.

The 4th Silab Days event took place on 19-20 June in Brive, France, and was presented under the heading ‘Water, Source of Innovation in Cosmetics’. At the opening of the conference, Silab R&D director, Brigitte Closs- Gonthier announced that 140 people from 22 nationalities were in attendance and that 2014 is also the year Silab celebrates its 30th birthday.