FEATURE ARTICLES

Emilie Desmarthon, Manuel De Arriba – LCW-Sensient Cosmetic Technologies, France

New generations of anti-ageing products have been formulated according to optical rules, giving the consumer an immediate, visual improvement.

Pierfrancesco Morganti — II Università di Napoli / Mavi Sud–Aprilia, Italy

7. Morganti — Mavi Sud–Aprilia, Italy

The cosmetic market, even though considered mature in many areas, is still increasing in size globally and reached a value of US $200 billion in 2007 (Fig. 1).

Wenjun Huang – Euromonitor International, Shanghai, China

According to Euromonitor International, the global cosmetics and toiletries market kept growing in the review period – by 2006, the market had expanded by US $60 bn since 2001 in terms of retail value based on current prices, growing at more than 5% CAGR (Fig. 1).

China’s only dedicated event for the Chinese personal care and homecare ingredients markets, PCHi (www.pchichina. com), received overwhelming positive feedback from exhibitors and attendees at the recent edition in Shanghai, says Reed Sinopharm Exhibitions (RSE), organiser of the event.

in-cosmetics, the leading global business platform for personal care ingredients, is taking place from 15 to 17 April 2008 at the Amsterdam RAI, The Netherlands.

Ken Jones – Aloecorp Inc., USA

Over the past two decades, skin care has advanced at a rate rivalling that of technology. Just as it used be enough for cell phones to simply make phone calls, it used to be enough for skin care products to simply cleanse, tone and moisturise.

Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH – Technical Editor

The natural world is abundant in fatty acids that are beneficial to both body and skin, internally and externally. Table 1 gives some of the examples according to carbon numbers and double bonds present.

Yoshihito Kawashima, Akinori Kiso, Naoko Kishida, Yoko Ito, Nobuaki Ohto and Toshimitsu Kambara – Maruzen Pharmaceuticals Co Ltd, Japan

Conspicuous pores, which can be caused by excess of sebum secretion, sagging of the skin and parakeratosis, constitute one of the major skin problems faced by women.1,2

Hai Zhou Zhang, Jinx Ya Dai, Phoeby Wong – Evonik Degussa (China)

Despite a long history of study and application for water-in-oil emulsions, there has been little research on waterin- oil quick breaking emulsions.

Prof Dr Johann W. Wiechers – JW Solutions, The Netherlands

Many active ingredients have been introduced into the cosmetic market over the last ten years, so one would expect that cosmetic products have become much more active over this decade as well.

Stéphanie Garcel, Emmanuelle Merat, Chantal Amalric, Alicia Roso – Seppic, France

Fluid formulas are generally well appreciated by consumers as they encourage even and smooth application. However, the main difficulty with these is the combining of good flowing properties with reproducible viscosities and good stability, especially at higher temperatures.

Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH – Technical Editor

In Dominica this year, I visited one of the many volcanic pools in the area and also purchased a tourist sample of the mud extracted out of this hot, spluttering ferment. Local people have a superb knowledge of their local flora and ethnopharmaceutical remedies, but they also placed great store by the muds and silts that are prevalent in the area.

Dr Antonella Sciocco Saita, Dr Federico Sala – Vitatene

Carotenoids are widely spread in nature, being responsible for the characteristic yellow to red colours in many natural products, such as carrots, peppers, tomatoes, flowers and several microorganisms, including algae and fungi.

D.Boudier, E.Perez, D.Rondeau, S.Bordes, B.Closs — Silab, France

11. Saetun –Spincontrol Asia, Thailand

Visible pigmentation of the human skin depends primarily on the functions of melanocytes, a very minor population of cells which are specialised in the synthesis and distribution of melanin, through a process called melanogenesis.

James J. Ramirez, Larry S. Moroni – BioChemica International, USA

Contrary to what their name might otherwise imply, exotic butters being used in cosmetic formulations are not sourced from milk and contain no dairy by-products.

Paul Lee – Reed Sinopharm Exhibitions

China’s increasingly sophisticated and fashion-savvy middle class has catalysed the rapid growth of a RMB 70 billion (US $9.5 billion) cosmetics market1 – an increasingly meaningful market for multinationals in the industry.

Laetitia Marlier – Interpolymer Sàrl, France; Wim Van Drunen – Interpolymer GmbH, Germany; Eugen-Carsten Rothermel – Interpolymer Shanghai, China

The appearance of a product is often as important as the product itself. Being in competition with plenty of innovative toiletries or cleaners that are presented next to each other on the shelves of beauty salons, drug stores, and supermarkets, formulators of personal care products and detergents need to find new ways that give an appealing appearance to their own products.

R.S. Patrick and D. Cooper – CollTech Australia

Traditionally, collagen has been produced from bovine and porcine sources such as skin and tendon.

More recently collagen has also been produced from marine sources and protein substitutes derived from plants that are provided as collagen. Bovine collagen in particular has become less desirable due to safety issues surrounding transmissible spongiform encephalopathies.

Giancarlo Guglielmini – Sinerga, Italy

Azelaic acid is produced by the microorganism Pityrosporum ovale (and other species), which is responsible for the cutaneous disease known as “pityriasis versicolor”. This microorganism causes leucodermic spots on which melanin is not present. Its mechanism of action has been proved as a competitive inhibition of tyrosinase, the main enzyme involved in the formation of melanin.1-3

Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH – Technical Editor

Last year there seemed to be an obsession with litigation – with more companies targeted for compensation than ever before. Offered here are some ideas for fights ahead. Patience and a sense of humour are essential in order to retain sanity when a claim arises.