FEATURE ARTICLES

Jobiah J Sabelko, Tammy W Gaffney, Akiko 0kawa – Nalco Company

During the last 25 years, hair care products have advanced from singularly functional (cleansing, conditioning, styling or colouring) in the 1980s and multifunctional in the 1990s (two-in-one shampoo and conditioner), to the specifically targeted multifunctional products of today.

Miyuki Fujishiro, Yasunobu Ochiai, Yuji Eda, Yuri Okano, Hitoshi Masaki – Nikkol Group, Tokyo, Japan

Described in this article is how a novel vitamin B6 derivative, Pyridoxine Tris- Hexyldecanoate (VB6-IP), improves skin hydration by stimulating filaggrin expression and increasing NMF synthesis.

Wen Schroeder – SEKI Cosmeticals, USA

The use of perfume is as old as human history. In fact, the word “perfume” derives from the Latin, meaning “through smoke”, because it was customary to burn natural salves, herbs and oils to produce incense for religious rituals. As well as by Romans, the use of perfume has been recorded by almost every ancient civilisation, including the Egyptians, Persians, Greeks, Carthaginians and Arabs.

Anthony C. Dweck FRSC FRSH FLS Technical Editor

It is understandable that a company should want its products to be as attractive and enticing to the consumer as possible, but it would seem that there are some manufacturers who are prepared to take their chances and go over the strict barriers and guidelines that are clearly defined by law. There is also a trend to tell us what a particular formula does not contain and by so doing imply that the product is safer, but nothing could be further from the truth.

Nicholas Marshall – Managing Editor

The latest thinking about the role of water in cosmetic formulations was presented and debated at the IFSCC Conference 2007, held recently in Amsterdam, The Netherlands.

The vibrancy and growth currently being experienced in the personal care sector in India will be clearly reflected at the forthcoming in-cosmetics India.

Taking place on 20 and 21 November 2007 at the Bandra Kurla Exhibition Centre in Mumbai, and organised by Reed Exhibitions, in-cosmetics India (formerly PCHi) is shaping up to follow the huge success of 2006. For the 2006 Mumbai show, the Reed Exhibitions team was decidedly in the right place at the right time to help exhibitors and visitors alike make the most of rapid growth in the personal care industry.

Alain Khaiat – Seers Consulting, USA Shoshana (Malis) Arad – Ben-Gurion University of the Negev, Israel Ram Snir – Frutarom, Israel

Survival of red microalga cells in the extreme conditions of the ocean tidal zone while subjected to a wide range of harsh conditions, such as overexposure to and constant changes in UV, pH, temperature, hydration and salinity, is attributed to the protective polysaccharide (PS) synthesised in the cells and creating an active shield around them.

In a number of studies the PS has demonstrated a wide range of biological activities, including anti-inflammatory, anti-irritant, anti-oxidant, UV absorbance and bio-lubricant properties, explaining in part its protective effect on the algae cells, as well as protection of the human skin. Over 20 years of research have resulted in an innovative patented growth process.

3. Lenaers, G. Bon, J. Dorothyn, C. Quenel, B. Closs – Silab, France.

Three targets for a high anti-cellulite action – fat storage, inflammation, and adipose tissue degradation – are among specifics focused on in this article. Cellulite frequently affects women, and is indicated on particular areas of the body such as the buttocks and thighs by a padded appearance of the skin, more familiarly known as orange peel effect.

Julian P. Hewitt, Lorna M. Kessell, Benjamin J. Naden – Croda Chemicals Europe, UK

Inorganic sunscreens such as titanium dioxide are now used very widely throughout the world, especially in Asia.

These materials provide very effective and broad spectrum protection, but suffer from drawbacks in terms of visual and tactile sensory properties: they often give a white film on skin and a less-than-ideal skin feel. Asian consumers, in particular, expect skin care and sun care products to have a high degree of cosmetic elegance.

Products should ideally not leave a film on skin which is perceivable either visually or sensorially.

The objective of the work described in this article was to develop formulations incorporating titanium dioxide, which overcome the sensory drawbacks while maintaining a high degree of efficacy.

16. Benech, C. Mas Chamberlin, P. Mondon, K. Lintner – Sederma, France

Today, the action of cosmetic products is increasingly sophisticated and the biological activity of cosmetic ingredients needs to be comprehensively understood. This article examines a way of establishing an appropriate level of knowledge.

Every day, new cosmetic “active” ingredients are introduced to a worldwide market that is hungry for novelty, originality, and efficacy. Synthetic, extracted or biotechnology derived molecules vie for attention, and producers claim multiple skin benefits and base their arguments on various classical or novel test protocols.

Crystal Arlea and Rosita Nunez – Lonza Inc., USA

For many years, formulators have been searching for effective paraben replacements primarily in skin care products destined for the global marketplace.1 While being a highly effective fungicide, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate (IPBC) was previously not an option for the global marketplace due to restrictions in the Japanese personal care market.

However, in May 2006, IPBC received official approval by the Japanese Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare (MHLW) for use in cosmetic and personal care products under Pharmaceutical and Food Safety Bureau Notification No. 0524001.

Wen Schroeder – SEKI Cosmeticals, USA

The global biocides industry underwent a profound change on the implementation of the European Union’s Biocidal Products Directive 98/8/EC (BPD).

It was modelled after the Plant Protection Products Directive 91/414/CEE but concerns only the non-agricultural pesticides. The first proposal was introduced in 1993, officially adopted by the European Council and the European Parliament on 16 February, 1998 and entered into force on 14 May, 2000. This Directive aims to provide a harmonised single regulatory framework for placing biocidal products on the EU market. Another objective is to ensure a high level of human and environmental protection while safeguarding the EU market competitiveness.

16. Krisdaphong, V. Vatcharapreechasakul, W. Suphachinda – Mae Fah Luang University, Thailand

Cellulite occurs in the deeper layers of the skin and it becomes more visible as the condition worsens.

Over time, fat deposits accumulate in compartments causing the skin to expand and bulge and this shows up on the skin’s surface as dimpled skin. The logical approach is to tackle the problem from within, directly treating the trapped fat and blood circulation, and backing this up with the topical application of lotion and cream.

John Hibbs, Terri Germain, Jonette Payne – McIntyre Group

This article presents the pigment wetting efficacy of a series of novel branchedchain esters using a model system.

This empirical study with mica demonstrates that branched-chain esters are effective pigment wetters. Specifically, Butyloctyl palmitate was found to have exceptional wetting properties with a viscosity difference of only 362 cps between the ester and the 35% pigment suspension. In addition, butyloctyl cetearate, butyloctyl behenate, decyltetradecyl cetearate and tetradecyloctadecyl hexyldecanoate all show excellent pigment wetting properties with an observed difference of less than 2,000 cps between the neat ester and the corresponding suspension in the ester.

Maria Theresa Luna-Lumain – DSM Nutritional Products

Using Polysilicone-15 to protect hair against UV damage is described in this article. Frequent exposure to UV radiation causes visible damage to hair. Hair with changed colour, split ends, resistance to combing, loss of strength and integrity are the results of excessive sun exposure without proper protection. In this article, it is shown how the unique architecture of Polysilicone-15 can protect hair against UVB radiation with an appealing sensorial product profile and safety for daily use.

Gerd H. Dahms – Kemira Chemie GmbH, Germany

Nanoemulsions and nanocarrier systems such as solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) and membrane structured solid lipid nanoparticles (MSSN) open up new formulation prospects across the entire range of emulsions.

In the past these systems were discussed more or less from a phenomenological point of view. However, recent research has revealed their enormous potential. Among the numerous outstanding properties of nanoemulsions are film formation on skin, penetration properties and strengthening of the natural skin barrier as well as the ability to encapsulate hydrophobic active substance and to improve a product’s physical properties.

Yumiko Sasagawa – Vitamin C60 BioResearch Corporation, Japan

Recent research shows that the ozone (O3) layer in the stratosphere which protects life on earth by filtering out harmful UV radiation is decreasing due to chemical compounds such as chlorofluorocarbon.

As the degradation of the ozone layer means the higher levels of UV reaching Earth’s surface, we should take every possible measure to protect against UV. But, first of all, why should we be careful about UV?

Dr L. Sousselier, Celina Rocquet, Romain Reynaud – Soliance, France

Age is a main preoccupation of both women and men. More than being an envelope, the skin is a complex organ that needs to maintain constantly its physiological functions in order to ensure homeostasis. Each layer is confronted with certain issues, resolved by specific solutions. It is thus of prime importance to think of ageing prevention globally, but to act locally. Soliance has developed an innovative and fully natural strategy that helps and boosts the biological functions of the skin by acting specifically on each layer of the skin.

Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH Technical Editor

Ways in which personal care products are made, packaged and transported may have to change dramatically in order to satisfy new criteria of consumers.

Already there is quiet change underway in marketing moods in some Western countries. The desire for natural products is slowly shifting from a desire for exotic naturals and plants with enticing names to themes that are far more subtle and planet-protective.

Harald van der Hoeven, Martina Heldermann, Sabrina John – CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH, Germany

Smooth skin with a pure complexion gives an attractive appearance and exudes a

self-confidence and charisma. More and more individuals beyond their teenage years suffer from impure skin. The increased presence of sebum on the face causes not only facial shine, it also plays a crucial part in the pathogenesis of the formation of pimples and pustules, which might lead to acne-prone skin.

Impure or mixed skin often gives an overall impression of neglect, even though the individuals concerned often extend more time and effort to skin care than most people with perfect skin.