COVER STORY: PHOSPHOLIPON® 90 H IP – Biomimetic Barrier Boost

Consumers and formulators alike are increasingly drawn to formulations with thoughtfully curated ingredients. By focusing on fewer, high-quality components, these products reduce the risk of irritation while delivering maximum efficacy.

Phospholipids perfectly meet the requirements for modern skin care ingredients: they are sourced from renewable raw materials, provide biomimetic multifunctionality, and ensure excellent skin compatibility due to their endogenous nature. PHOSPHOLIPON® 90 H IP is based on hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, a highly pure fraction of natural phospholipids derived from non-GMO soybeans. It offers a unique range of benefits in a single ingredient: it functions as a skin barrier—strengthening and replenishing agent, provides an exceptionally smooth skin feel, and can be used as a non-irritating emulsifier that ensures excellent formulation aesthetics.

The cosmetic benefits, multifunctionality, and excellent tolerability of PHOSPHOLIPON® 90 H IP make it an ideal ingredient for stressed and sensitive skin, as well as for skin-friendly products.

The upper layers of the skin primarily consist of ceramides, cholesterol, and saturated long-chain free fatty acids. The composition and organization of these lipids determine the skin's barrier function. Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, a highly pure fraction of natural phospholipids, mimics the lipids naturally present in the stratum corneum. An in vivo shotgun lipidomics study showed that hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine intercalates into the upper layers of the skin (data not shown). Its localization in the stratum corneum provides the basis for the skin barrier—strengthening properties.

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