Anti-ageing active targets cellular proteostasis
Within cells, the endoplasmic reticulum plays the key role of factory for proteins, essential molecules to ensure the body's vital mechanisms. At the cutaneous level, this optimal functioning translates into a firm and radiant skin.
However, a large number of situations of stress can interfere with this protein balance. In response to this, the cell can trigger a “repair function”, namely the UPR (Unfolded protein response).
Silab has shown for the first time that skin ageing disrupts the protein balance (or proteostasis), following highly degraded protein production, and limits the activity of the UPR pathway. Faced with this observation, Silab Research has developed Erisium, an anti-ageing active ingredient that maintains cellular proteostasis by:
- Reactivating the UPR pathway and thereby reducing the endoplasmic reticulum stress;
- Limiting the inflammaging process;
- Restoring matrix dynamics.
Following a biomimetic approach, Silab Research became interested in the outer layers of rice (Oryza sativa L.). These co-products, resulting from the bleaching of whole grain rice into white rice, are natural sources of essential nutrients.
They are therefore able to maintain a functional protein production in plant cells and to activate the UPR via signal peptides whose enriched sequence in leucine and valine is known to target stressed ER.
In this context, the company has developed a unique enzymatic bioengineering process to specifically extract these leucine- and valine-rich peptides, whose efficacy to restore the UPR pathway in old skin cells has been validated.
With its global anti-ageing action, Erisium (INCI name: Oryza sativa (Rice) Extract) is a patented solution of natural origin at 99% (ISO 16128) and respecting biodiversity regulations. Available in aqueous solution (recommended amount: 0.5 to 2.5%) this active ingredient is compliant with international cosmetic regulations (Europe, United States, Japan, China, etc.).
Tested on Caucasian and Asian panels, Erisium provides an anti-wrinkle and radiance booster effect. Indeed, after 56 days of twice daily application, a visual scoring by trained evaluators using digital photos highlighted that Erisium formulated at 2.5% in an emulsion significantly reduces
the stage of wrinkles by 12% (P < 0.01) on Caucasian volunteers (on the crow’s feet), and by 9% (P < 0.01) on Asian volunteers (on the nasolabial fold).
A subjective evaluation confirms these data: at the end of the treatment, 100% of the Caucasian volunteers feel their skin smoother and 100% of the Asian volunteers consider their complexion radiance revived and their wrinkles and fine lines smoothed.
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