Choosing the right emulsifier remains a decision formulation chemists face at the onset of each project. The natural origin, global regulatory acceptance, functionality, robustness and compatibility with skin structures are all parameters that need to be carefully analysed when selecting an emulsifier.
In addition, the impact of the emulsifier on the sensorial properties of the final formulation remains a key factor. This parameter often determines the acceptance of the cosmetic product by end consumers. Even though oils, emollients and thickeners may influence the emulsion characteristics, emulsifiers remain the cornerstone of a formulations aesthetics and functionality.
Through years of research, Innovacos has developed an expertise in polyglycerol technology . This knowhow led to a new generation of polyglycerol-based emulsifiers known as PolyAquol™. The first member of this family is PolyAquol-2W; an all naturally derived O/W emulsifying technology that was assigned the Ecocert and Cosmos certifications. It is made of a skilled combination of the components polyglyceryl-2 stearate, glyceryl stearate and stearyl alcohol. It is non-ionic and has self-emulsifying properties meaning it works independently of the HLB system and can create stable emulsions on its own without the need of co-emulsifiers or co-factors.
Polyglycerol-based emulsifiers are not new in the field of cosmetics. However, Innovacos succeeded to reinvent the polyglycerol technology by fine tuning its chemistry. PolyAquol-2W (now referred to as ‘the polyglycerol-based emulsifier’) is manufactured using highly purified building blocks such as diglycerol and stearic acid. The glycerol moiety and the fatty acid are linked together in a solvent-free system while respecting a very precise molecular stoichiometry. Such a close control of the glyceryl-OH group density allows for a consistent polarity of the emulsifier (Fig 1). This becomes important for uniform emulsifying properties between each lot produced. Furthermore, the reaction is controlled to avoid the presence of free diglycerol to maintain optimal sensorial properties in the final emulsion. The technology of the polyglycerol-based emulsifier (patent pending) thus emerges from a unique knowledge of the polyglycerol molecularity combined with a meticulously controlled manufacturing process.
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