Sun irritation is considered as being, potentially, the largest contributor to skin ageing. The use of sun filters (PARSOL®) is generally accepted, however there is still a lack of attention on biological processes ongoing in skin after light exposure that goes beyond UV light. At the same time there is increasing demand for natural, sustainable ingredients with proven performance.
Specialised in the development and manufacturing of active ingredients from natural origins, DSM researchers have identified, for the first time, the potential of the freshwater algae Scenedesmus rubecens (DSM’s PEPHA®-AGE) to stimulate the skin’s own defence against the negative impact of sunlight.
Scenedesmus rubescens belongs to the genus Secendesmus. Living in fresh water lakes, this green microalga has developed a unique defence system against UV and blue light induced stress. It is sustainably produced in state-of-the-art photo-bioreactors that maintain its unique composition of amino acids, vitamins (B3), algal saccharides and minerals (Zn).
Holistic effect against UV and blue light-induced skin damage
In vitro tests with PEPHA®-AGE showed it stimulates the skin’s own resilience through improved fibroblast viability and regeneration after UV and blue light stress, and increased total collagen levels. Ex vivo studies confirmed the collagen III increase and revealed a reduced number of sunburn cells after exposure to UVB radiation.
Particular tests on blue light have been developed, in which the impact of blue light on ROS and carbonylated peptides has been evaluated. Oxidative stress triggers protein carbonylation. Carbonylated proteins are missing their functionality and are considered as a significant contributor to skin ageing.
Hence, PEPHA®-AGE helps to limit skin damage caused by exposure to sunlight and blue light, in particular, minimising signs of photo-ageing and restoring the skin’s radiance.
But what is the blue light exactly, and what does it do to our skin?
We are so focused on protecting our skin in the sun, we assume we are safe indoors; but if you use a phone, tablet or any electronic device, your skin might be suffering from blue light.
Blue light is a part of the visible light spectrum that has a very short, high-energy wavelength. While 90% of it comes from the sun, 10% comes from electronic devices. Consumers are gradually becoming aware of its risks, however out of the 40,000 skin care products that were launched last year, just nine claimed protection against blue light. DSM is investigating this area and has developed two new ‘In and Out’ formulations.
Newly introduced at in-cosmetics in London, DSM Personal Care beat the blues with its new holistic blue light concept. It protects your skin from blue light damage, indoors and outdoors, through a joint use of carefully selected biological active vitamins and skin care ingredients, combined with particular PARSOL ® UV filters that absorb blue light.
In a specific internal assay, using BCT (Beta Carotene), blue light has been confirmed as a major source of oxidative stress at the skin’s surface. That is why DSM’s newly developed formulations contain the UV-filter PARSOL® Max, the recently launched active PEPHA® AGE and the vitamin active Niacinamide PC, all of which block UV light, counteract oxidative stress and protect against protein damage. All this shields the skin from blue light sources – indoors and outdoors.