Fragrances are a powerful emotional trigger for people and consequently are a hugely important aspect of personal care products. These ingredients operate as brand signifier as well as connoting a wide range of other meanings.
Formulating with fragrances can be a challenge, but ingredient suppliers are constantly developing new products that make it easier to work with these powerful ingredients. Following is a selection of some of the wide range of fragrances and solubilisers available on the market.
Balsam of Peru is used in food and drink for flavouring; in perfumes and toiletries for fragrance, and in medicine and pharmaceutical items for healing properties. It has a sweet scent and in some instances, Balsam of Peru is listed on the ingredient label of a product by one of its various other names.
About 50 to 64 per cent volatile oil is present in Balsam and resin is 20 to 28 per cent. The contents of volatile oil are benzoic acid, cinnamic acid esters. It is believed that the main active constituents of resin are benzoic acid and cinnamic acid. About 60% of this oil is cinnamein which is a volatile oil and extracted by the steam distillation. Commercially this is used in the perfume industry, cosmetic industry and soap industry.
However where permitted, BMV Fragrances has developed a unique product namely Balsam Peru Super Absolute, which is very light in colour and very delicate and soft in odour. Also Balsam Peru NNO is a very true reconstitution of the oil.
This product sector – with its many subsectors – covers a vast range of individual products, and with regular shifts in fashion is also the fastest-moving in terms of brand cycle and innovation. New developments in technology can generate their own demands in the marketplace, while regional differences bring the need for culturally sensitive localisation of products.
The world’s leading fragrance brands protect their valuable creations by adding unique, undistinguishable, ‘captive’ molecular ingredients, ensuring their fragrances cannot be precisely replicated by others.
This creative process is now exclusively available to clients of CPL Aromas. Through extensive research and development, CPL Aromas have created Aromafusion, a range of new, long-lasting, unique scent molecules.
The unique process combines fragrance molecules together, creating completely new ‘captive’ ingredients, thereby extending the fragrance palette available to CPL’s perfumers, providing unique creative possibilities
Aromafusion ingredients are for the exclusive use of CPL Aromas perfumers who are able to create original and unique fragrances for a variety of product applications.
Earthoil offers a broad range of highquality conventional, organic and fair trade essential oils from around the globe. Some, such as tea tree oil, come from Earthoil’s own production sources, while others are drawn from our extensive network of organic growers.
Essential oils are derived from a variety of origins and comprise single fold, rectified, concentrated and terpeneless alternatives. Using the company’s advanced technical expertise, Earthoil can ensure there is a product available to match specific requirements. After the recent issues surrounding potential allergens, for example furanocoumarins in oils, Earthoil has developed a range of reduced allergen oils to help customers with the legislative constraints without losing impact.
Also available are Treattaromes, which are the result of 15 years of research and commercialisation of proprietary technology that has yielded a range of water-based fragrance products that capture exactly the very essence of the named food.
Already established in the flavour industry, Treattaromes have found a home in personal care formulations ranging from facial misters to shampoos and from cleansing wipes to spa treatments. They can be used in these applications at levels as low as 0.1% and impart the natural fragrance of the original starting material to your formulation.
Earthoil can currently offer five products in this range for personal care: Banana Treattarome; Green Tea Treattarome; Honey Treattarome; Cantaloupe Melon Treattarome; Cucumber Treattarome.
Many other products have been commercialised for the flavour industry and could be available to the personal care industry.
Maracuya Oil from Expanscience is a virgin oil obtained by cold pressure of Maracuja seeds, which are responsibly sourced from Latin America (Peru). Light to the touch, it spreads and penetrates quickly and softens the skin providing an evanescent and exotic fragrance of passion fruit.
Maracuya Oil strengthens the skin’s barrier function and protects it from external aggressions, thanks to its high content in tocotrienols, tocopherols and linoleic acid. In Latin America, the aerial parts of the Maracuja, the passiflore, are used for its relaxing properties.
Eco-responsibility is ensured by using the discarded seeds from the food supply chain. This means the local economy is boosted in Peru by granting the producers access to a new market. Biodiversity is preserved by supporting Peru’s Pacific coast reforestation and by creating other cultures (avocado trees, papaya trees, mango trees, etc).
From floral to spicy and woody to herbaceous, Merck have a comprehensive high quality fragrance ingredient offering following the global IFRA guidelines. The products have been quality-tested and are provided with easily accessible third party validation to customers around the globe
Sigma-Aldrich (acquired by Merck in 2015) provides a variety of aroma chemicals that follow IFRA guidelines with transparent and easily accessible documentation around the globe. The selection of natural and synthetic ingredients enables fragrance formulation in a variety of applications.
Hydroessentials from Vevy Europe are natural hydrosoluble fraction of natural essential oils, obtained by mollecular distillation. Particularly suitable for the preparation of hydrolates, aromatic waters and tonics completely natural, without solvents or solubilisers, these contain infinitesimal doses which, dissolved in water, offer the same olfactory tonality as the primary aromatic principle.
The range includes Hydroessential Citrus Limon, Hydroessential Thymus, Hydroessential Flores Rosae, and Hydroessential Eucalyptus.
A vegetable origin lipoamino acid ecosolubiliser obtained by acylation of fatty acids from coconut with proline, Natisol (INCI Name: Cocoyl Proline) from Sinerga is particularly suitable for solubilising essential oils and fragrances for toiletries and perfumes. It completely substitutes ethoxylated surfactants normally used in cosmetic products without losing foaming qualities. It is Ecocert certified and complies to Cosmos standards. Natisol is ideal for: bubble bath and shower gel, shampoos, lotions, perfumes and after shaves.
Poly Suga Mulse D9 from Colonial Chemical is a PEG-free, nonionic fragrance solubiliser made from 100% bio-based raw materials. It is hydrophilic, freely soluble or dispersible in water, and soluble in varying degrees in organic liquids. Poly Suga Mulse D9 is used for oil-in-water (O/W) emulsification, dispersion or solubilisation of fragrances and all types of oils. It is compatible with nonionic, cationic and anionic surfactants and is effective in systems with relatively high levels of electrolyte, acid, or base.
Poly Suga Mulse D9 is an excellent solubiliser for fragrances in water-only and water-and-surfactant systems and compares favourably to ethoxylated materials (such as Tween 20 and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil) in both ease-of-use and use levels. Poly Suga Mulse D9 may also be used as a coemulsifier in the formulation of creams and lotions. Applications include: fragrance solubiliser in all systems, perfumed waters and essential oils, deodorants and aftershaves, skin care products, shampoos and hair gels, body washes and wipes.
Evonik has recently introduced TEGO Solve 55, a highly effective PEG-free, naturally based solubiliser for easy and versatile incorporation of perfume and essential oils in various aqueous formulations.
TEGO Solve 55 (proposed INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Caprylate/Caprate/ Succinate; Propylene Glycol) was optimised for the superior solubilising of a broad variety of perfume and essential oils in water-based formulations. For example, it is effective for the solubilisation of essential oils like rosemary, lemon, lemongrass or lavender oil. Crystal clear cosmetic formulations are possible. In addition to the excellent solubilising properties, TEGO Solve 55 is cold processable as well as electrolyte-resistant. It exhibits ultra-mild cleansing properties, improved moisturisation, and skin-feel benefits.
This polyglycerin ester is completely based on renewable raw materials, i.e. on rapeseed- and palm kernel oil. Due to its cold processability and ease of handling, TEGO Solve 55 facilitates the preparation of mixtures with oils and water. The PEGfree product can be used in various cosmetic formulations and is suitable for natural cosmetics. Preferred application forms of TEGO Solve 55 are shampoos or body washes, micellar waters, gentle makeup remover, deo roll-on formulations as well as wet wipe solutions.
AMA Laboratories is a clinical testing and claim support laboratory based out of New City, New York. Specializing in SPF, UVA, Infrared, Safety, and Hypoallergenic Testing, Instrumental Analysis, and Visual Claim Support via PhotoGrammetrix®.AMA offers a unique bridge between scientifically backed efficacy reporting and cutting edge...
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