FEATURE ARTICLES
Bioactive fucoidan fractions as cosmetic ingredients
Marinova, an Australian biotechnology company, developed two speciality cosmetic ingredients from marine algae. Maritech Bright is a Fucus vesiculosus derived extract (pictured) comprising both fucoidan and polyphloroglucinol, and Maritech Reverse is a high purity fucoidan from Undaria pinnatifida. Fucoidan is a sulphated, fucose rich polysaccharide with multiple bioactivities. Polyphloroglucinols are unique marine algal derived polyphenols with profound antioxidant activity.
Sebum production and pore size finally under control
Enlarged pores and shininess are no longer an exclusive problem of teenagers. In fact it is a great concern among adults from different ages and all around the world. A marine biotechnological ingredient has proved to be an effective candidate to control sebum production and reduce pore size.
Solvent extraction assessed as most sustainable method
We recognise that customers of the personal care and cosmetics industries may have an innate negative reaction to the concept of responsible pesticide/ herbicide use, as well as solvent extraction methods. Indeed, even benign chemistries such as parabens and silicones are more frequently referred to as inherently ‘bad’ and ‘unnatural’.
Fragrance zone to explore trends and new technology
Fragrance is a crucial element of most beauty and personal care products. In what is an incredibly crowded and competitive marketplace, providing the very best sensory experience possible for a customer can very often make a real difference to a product’s market share. As such, the fragrance market continues to grow and develop, especially as new trends and scents influence western consumers from new markets.
Odour analysis in personal care products
The human sense of smell has been underestimated for a long time. However, recent research shows that it is closely connected to emotions, memories, approach and avoidance, and also evaluative judgment. Therefore, the scent of a product can have a significant impact on consumers’ product experience, its liking, the evaluative judgment of the products’ qualities, and the products’ purchase intention.
Fragrance matters at annual industry forum
With a theme of ‘Fragrance Matters’ the 2014 Fragrance Forum, the 4th annual event of its kind, was again held at the Royal Society in London.
Ingredients focus: fragrance formulating
Fragrance is one of the most important aspects of personal care products, providing a huge degree of sensory input and in many cases creating the clearest point of differentiation between one product and its competitors.
Validation of processing methods as part of scale-up
Process validation for cosmetic products is a requirement under GMP so that manufacturers can prove control of critical aspects of their operations.
Ultrasonic methods: opportunities in formulation
Ultrasound is a well-used method for particle size reduction in dispersions and emulsions across many industries and applications. While the use of ultrasound in the processing of personal care formulations does happen, it is currently not very common.
Cosmetic potential from Africa and the Indian Ocean
Plants have been the source of medicinal and cosmetic ingredients since time immemorial. Their uses have been documented in many societies and Asian countries have had an advantage so far as the traditional information has been documented both in Chinese and Ayurvedic medicines.
Innovative applications of shikimic acid
This paper outlines the investigation of multi cosmetic uses related to a patented cosmetic ingredient, INCI Name: Shikimic Acid. It is a pure product of vegetable origin, derived from Illicium verum (star anise). Its efficacy was mainly demonstrated in deodorisation applications. However, it is also indicated for its anti-acne, anti-dandruff, and exfoliating activity.
High-tech skin radiance from exposure to light
The effects of light on skin are due to various degrees of absorption of electromagnetic radiation. The visible light spectrum has a 400 nm to 760 nm wavelength. The lighttissue interaction effects are due to absorption and excitation of photons. Once the light reaches the skin, part of it is absorbed, part is reflected or scattered, and part is further transmitted. The structures of the tissue that absorb the photons are known as chromophores that have different wavelengths of absorption.
Ingredients focus: hair care
The hair care market in Asia is expected to do well in the coming years thanks to improving economies and increasing interest in expanding hair care regimes. However, with more elaborate hair care regimes and use of dyes and styling tools comes an increasing need to protect the hair fibres from damage.
Sustainability at the heart of cosmetic innovation
Life has existed on Earth for 3.6 billion years, and never has a single species had such a dramatic effect on the planet. 200,000 years ago, humans started shaping the world around them, felling trees, developing agricultural land and extracting the planet’s resources. Since the start of the Industrial Revolution, development has accelerated exponentially and the demand for energy has increased the strain on natural resources.
Asia’s innovations offer tailored solutions
Asia’s beauty industry has long been a subject of great fascination to the West. As with everything connected to appearance and fashion, consumers are always eager to try something just a little bit different to their peers, and looking eastwards often presents abundant options.
Beards: an unlikely area for product development
While the prevailing fashion for stubbled cheeks and beards of varying lengths has hit sales of men’s razors and blades and halted growth of shaving preparations, it has opened opportunities for a relatively new sector of the male grooming market – beard care products.
Men’s market: overview and skin care predictions
The men’s skin care market in the UK is now worth an estimated £911 million per annum,1 and now looks set to justify the hype that has surrounded it for many years. GQ Styling and Grooming editor, Jessica Punter, commented: “This side of the industry has gone from infancy to a fully-fledged market in relatively short space of time.”2
Sustainable light emollient with high spreadability
Founded in 2003 by a group of scientists from the University of California, Berkeley, Amyris uses new science and an innovative business model to address global sustainability challenges. Amyris utilises yeast to develop and manufacture high performing, cost competitive and sustainable alternatives to chemical and petroleum-based products.
Sunless tanners aided by jojoba-derived emollient
loraesters K-20W Jojoba [INCI Name: Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters (and) Water] has been shown to enhance the efficacy and sensory properties of multiple finished cosmetic and personal care formulations, and has been explored in various categories such as creams/lotions, hand sanitisers, nonwoven wipes, sunscreens, mascara/eyeliner, shampoos/conditioners, toners/astringents, face washes, and oil-free formulations. Its film-forming properties make it ideal for rinse-off products and products that require water resistance or an extended period of residence time on the skin.
Ingredients focus: sun care
One of the key themes repeated within the personal care industry is ‘convenience’. Consumers need their experience of using products to be easy, and to intrude into their daily lives only to enhance it. Products, especially within sun care, need to be effective but they must also be pleasant to use. Perhaps in the past there was an unspoken acceptance that applying sun cream would not be the most enjoyable experience, but that is increasingly no longer the case. Technology is enabling formulators to create lighter, less tacky products that are also more durable which in turn means that people’s skin is better protected.
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Today’s beauty industry players focus on sustainable ingredients that deliver proven performance and support innovative formulations. KLK OLEO is one step ahead, thanks to our sixteen (16) cutting-edge, sustainable operation facilities in Malaysia, Indonesia, China and Europe where we offer beauty brands a way to design their dream products, more...
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