FEATURE ARTICLES

Star ingredient of a famous energy drink, taurine is gradually conquering the health and beauty segments. Beyond its energising properties, this atypical amino acid is on the way to becoming one of the new anti-ageing molecules. Working on special culture conditions of Jania rubens in a photo-bioreactor, allowed the development of the first plant-based taurine ingredient.

The Immune Balance Rating™ (IBR) system is an exciting new in vitrotesting protocol for sunscreens and other topical products based upon cellular responses from skin and immune cells. The system compares products to a reference standard and measures five cellular outputs. Each output gives a relative rating and the product is then scored based on the average across all areas. This allows standardised grading of products and more substantive claims and targeted marketing.

Historically soap is known to mankind as a substance for cleaning purposes and its manufacturing process has evolved over a period of time which are currently known as swing and kettle processes.1

Cosmetic ingredients are not only developed for technical functions but also for specific sensory targets.

In recent years, we have seen an increasing blurring of the boundaries between skin care and colour cosmetics in terms of product formats, benefits, and claims. This certainly has not been lost on ingredient manufacturers, with a noticeable trend of traditionally skin care-oriented active ingredients being repositioned, and in cases re-tested, specifically targeting use in colour cosmetics.

In 2016 it was estimated that the European cosmetic market was worth €77 billion and that about 25% of all cosmetics placed on the market each year are new.1 Product claims and advertising play an important part in persuading customers to purchase cosmetic products.

Scents of the upcoming seasons are inspired by nature. Compositions reminding of the African grasslands, as well as aquatic fresh notes taking the colourful submarine world as an inspiration, are making up trend topics of the year.

Fragrances are a powerful emotional trigger for people and consequently are a hugely important aspect of personal care products. These ingredients operate as brand signifier as well as connoting a wide range of other meanings.

As consumers around the world are continually being encouraged to exercise their bodies as well as their brains, beauty brands are formulating products to help them in their quest for health and fitness.

A referendum held in the UK on 23 June 2016 resulted in one of the most important political changes in Britain’s post-war history.

HtrA1 is serine protease which has been identified in the epidermis.1 Although the precise function of HtrA1 in the epidermis is still unclear, some reports have suggested that HtrA1 is involved in programmed cell death, apoptosis and anoikis.2,3

Latest scientific evidence confirms, that air pollution contributes to premature skin ageing and may even be the primary cause of ageing in some cases. Especially for particulate matter and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) negative influence on skin integrity has been shown.

Water comprises over 70% of the Earth’s surface and is the home of a considerable amount of organisms that are continuously adapting to their varying surroundings. The seas and oceans entail a great variety of algae with potential skin care benefits and also of microorganisms able to produce specific metabolites that in turn help benefit the skin in different ways.

Marine biodiversity is far more important than terrestrial biodiversity. Life originated from oceans, and gradually adapted to brackish and fresh waters via rivers and streams, to finally conquest the ground environment.

The Earth sits in what is known as the ‘Goldilocks Zone’ of the solar system. This means that our planet is at the right distance from its star to allow liquid water in most places, which is considered a key ingredient to create and support life.

Waxes are a class of chemical compounds that are at room temperature moldable to hard. They usually melt above 45°C giving a low viscous liquid without decomposition.

In today’s world, cosmetic formulators are regularly being tasked to create new and exciting products while using the same old ingredients over and over again.

Everyone loves the look and feel of their hair immediately following a trip to the salon for colour – when every strand is a beautiful display of colour, highlights, vibrancy and shine.

Active ingredients from natural sources are becoming increasingly sought after by consumers who are eager to achieve a beautiful, healthy look for their hair without the use of ingredients that are perceived to be either ‘harsh’ or ‘synthetic’.

Over 3% global growth and the strong performance of some regions, particularly North America, are proof of another good year for the salon hair care market.