FEATURE ARTICLES

Robert McEldowney – Essential Oils of Tasmania Pty Ltd

Lavender is an ancient herb with a long history of use in fragrance, medicinal, culinary and aromatherapy applications.

Dr Arturo Puig, Dr José María García-Antón, Montserrat Mangues – Lipotec S.A.

The formation of wrinkles is the most easily visible sign of skin ageing.

Beth Johnson – Dow Corning Corporation, USA Stephane Van Oycke – Dow Corning S.A., Belgium

Over the past decade, the global hair care market has evolved rapidly as competition increases and formulators strive to meet specialised regional needs.

3. Mas-Chamberlin, Ph. Mondon, O. Peschard, F. Lamy and K. Lintner – Sederma SAS, France

Skin is notably elastic, but there are limits to its capacity to stretch. One such limit is evident in the visible skin blemishes generally called “stretch marks” (striae distensae or striae gravidorum).

Anthony Ansaldi, Marie Yednak-Carpenter – Presperse, USA

Mascara is one of the most commonly used cosmetics for the eyes. In modern mascara formulations the purpose of mascara is to darken, lengthen, and thicken the eyelashes. For decades formulators have been working on attaining these attributes while trying to eliminate some of the problems associated with mascara such as smudging, difficult removal, clumping etc. In order to solve these problems and provide the consumer with the benefits they are looking for, mascaras must be carefully formulated to allow easy and even application without smudging.

Dr Cornelia Huber – Pentapharm, Basel, Switzerland

Besides other environmental stress factors, UV radiation – even at low doses – is the main origin for DNA damage in human skin. These stress factors increase free radical levels in the cells, leading to the formation of 8-oxo-2’- deoxyguanosine (8-oxo-dG [Fig. 1]) and single-strand breaks. Cyclopyrimidine dimers directly result from UV radiation energy.1

"Our skin is our most visible feature and the most susceptible to the damaging effects of the sun’s UV rays. It is important then, that we protect our skin from these effects to maintain both our health and our beauty. One way to do this is through the use of sunscreens." -Maria Theresa Luna-Lumain and Kimberly Smith – DSM Nutritional Products

Marlies Regiert – Wacker Chemie AG, Germany

Cyclodextrins (CDs) are probably the most commercially important example of compounds that form host-guest complexes. In the cosmetic industry this ability of CDs to form inclusion complexes with a broad variety of organic compounds is used to increase stability and solubility of cosmetic actives and also decrease sensitivity to light and oxidation. The non-covalent inclusion complexes can have physical, chemical and biological properties that are dramatically different from those of either the parent cosmetic actives or cyclodextrins.

Corinne Stoltz – Seppic, France

Today’s woman is required to juggle work and the day-to-day organisation of family life and has just a few minutes to look after her appearance and stay beautiful, according to the demands of modern society. The development of new “tightening” agents has meant that the skin can be smoothed and lifted quickly and effortlessly.

Todd Ostergaard – Dow Corning Corporation, United States Scott Hawkins – Lipo Technologies Inc., United States Stephen Greenberg Ph.D – Lipo Chemicals Inc., United States

The cosmetic industry, for many years, has focused on providing products to consumers that prevent premature ageing of the skin and that promote a younger, healthier appearance.

David C. Steinberg – Steinberg & Associates Inc, USA

There have been many changes in regulations of personal care products in the past year. Some of these changes are leading us closer to global harmonisation but others are moving us further apart.

Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH – Technical Editor

Last year was a particularly active one for raw material suppliers and PCIA in Seoul, Korea added to the list of innovations. This review will look at natural materials and derivatives and take an excursion into the realm of new ideas and concepts.

Pierre-Yves Morvan, Romuald Vallée – Codif International, France

The fundamental role of calcium for our organism is of course well known. This element is also essential to the correct functioning of the skin, particularly for keratinocyte differentiation and cellular cohesion. Indeed, a rise in the calcium content is crucial to induce a structural modification of the normal human keratinocytes isolated from skin and maintained in monolayer culture.

This year’s Personal Care Ingredients Asia Exhibition and Conference was staged at COEX in Seoul, Korea, in March – being the tenth event in the PCIA series, it was a landmark occasion. PCIA has established itself as the premier event in the Asia Pacific region for showcasing raw materials and ingredients for personal care products.

Ute Wollenweber, Dr Peter Lersch – Degussa AG, Goldschmidt Personal Care, Essen, Germany

The “horny layer” as the top layer of the epidermis, is a thin inert, waterretaining barrier which protects the skin against external influences.

As part of their 60th Anniversary celebration, Laboratoires Sérobiologiques offer us an insight into the history and background to their business.

Uta Kortemeier, Holger Leidreiter, V. Klotzbach – Degussa Goldschmidt Personal Care, Germany.

Chemical hair dyes are very trendy, showing the biggest market increase within the global hair care market (Table 1). Very popular are red dyes, which have the disadvantage of low stability on the hair. Frequent shampoo and/or conditioner treatments cause a fast fading of the colour, with one reason being that red colours are mostly based on a mix of permanent oxidative dyes and semipermanent direct dyes, which are in general non-reactive cationic molecules with high substantivity to the hair surface.

Weng Yuping – Sichuan Cortry Co, China.

Acne is a nuisance that troubles many people. One of the best solutions for this is to use convenient and safe anti-acne products with natural full component formulations that are based on Chinese herbal actives.

Ulrike Marx – Zschimmer & Schwarz, Germany

The Protelan range is a product line of Zschimmer & Schwarz representing surfactants based on amino acids or protein hydrolisates in combination with different fatty acids.

Pierre-Yves Morvan, R&D director – Codif International, France

Melanocytes are crucial cells that produce melanin, a pigment responsible for the pigmentation of both skin and hair. They are mainly found in the basal layer of the epidermis, and have many dendrites that interpolate between keratinocytes. Melanin is contained into ovoid cytoplasmic organelles called melanosomes, which are transferred from melanocytes to keratinocytes. The number of melanocytes is more or less identical in all human populations; their density varies depending on the area of the body. The difference in colour is explained by the quality and quantity of the produced pigments.