In the field of cosmetics, consumers are increasingly informed and demanding, and have understood the need to consume differently to care for both themselves and nature. They have become ‘consum’actors’.
They are seeking simple, natural products, and demand greater transparency regarding the composition of their cosmetics, especially concerning worries over certain substances (silicones, aluminium, parabens, phtalates, etc.). They are even showing increasing concern regarding the methods of production used (Are they energy-efficient? Water-efficient?) and the raw materials employed (Where are they from? What is their carbon footprint? Are they produced by fair trade sources? Is the sourcing sustainable?). At the same time, consumers do not wish to compromise on the ‘pleasure’ factor, or effectiveness; quite the opposite. Natural products must be able to provide identical performance to those of traditional synthetic components, which fosters a positive impetus in favour of innovation for natural formulas and a strong consumer demand. Expertise in natural formulation has enabled Alban Muller to develop an innovative ‘sensorial’ ingredient, as a natural alternative to synthetic silicones: Lipolami. Obtained from milk thistle, an original plant for cosmetics, Lipolami takes the form of a dry soft-touch, fluid oil. It can be used to provide finished products with a smooth, silky and nonsticky texture with no silicones. It offers a feeling of extreme softness when applied. Lipolami is also an active ingredient source of omega-6 fatty acids that contribute to reinforce the skin barrier. It offers exceptional dispersing and solubilising properties which make it an interesting ingredient in sun care, make-up, perfumery, etc. Lipolami (now referred to as ‘the natural silicone alternative’) is obtained by transesterifying triglycerides from milk thistle fatty acids. This process produces monoesters, which give the oil its dermocosmetic properties. These natural fatty acid esters are very fluid and are dry to the touch, which means they can be used to formulate lighter textures than vegetable oils while retaining their dermocosmetic properties.
Tests
Sensorial test for emulsions
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