FEATURE ARTICLES

Clean beauty through minimalist formulas first seen in dermocosmetics brands, is now spreading to all segments, including luxury and masstige/mass market. Formulators are looking for multifunctional, ultraperforming and eco-responsible ingredients to overcome this new challenge.

Use of vitamin A derivatives - the retinoids - is common in cosmetic formulations targeting the anti-ageing area. While retinoid acid is banned in the European Union as a cosmetic ingredient, other retinoids such as retinol are permitted.

With fragrance sales flat in Europe and the US, brands are increasingly focused on being more innovative with visual formats and packaging, re-thinking the traditional to shake up the market and appeal to an appearance-driven Millennial and iGen audience.

Micellar waters are the trendy new facial cleanser that boasts its ability to clean skin without irritation. We present results from dynamic light scattering (DLS), phase analysis light scattering (PALS), and microrheology measurements of commercial micellar water formulations using the Brookhaven Instruments NanoBrook Omni system.

The world’s population is facing many challenges, some environmental, some political, some technological and some physiological.

The 2018 edition of the event attracted 9,392 unique visitors, 7% more than last year’s show in London, with international attendance increasing by 19% to account for 88% of all visitors.

The personal care industry is on an eternal quest to discover things that are considered ‘new’. There is a constant state of churn, with different aspects of formulations targeted for change at different times.

The human skin, and mainly the upper layer of the epidermis, plays the role of a barrier, but is also one of the first and major targets of air pollutants, pollutants contributing to wrinkle and dark sports occurrence through the redox imbalance.

In our urbanised and industrialised environments, we are exposed to increasingly abundant environmental pollutants. Heavy metals, PAHs and aldehydes is just a short list of toxic compounds surrounding us, having detrimental effects on our skin and body, causing respiratory diseases, headaches, asthma and skin rashes, which are just a few health aspects to mention.

The expression of the eyes determines the impression of someone’s face. For the appearance, many skin characteristics play a role. Low skin density, weak hydrolipid film, lack of drainage function and strong muscular stress are the main factors.

With time, the fragility of the skin around the eyes and its permanent motion favour the formation of wrinkles. These lines change how our expression is read, in particular under-eye wrinkles and the tear trough or valley of tears which give the face an impression of tiredness and sadness.

The horn-like envelopes covering the tips of our fingers and toes are called nails. They are highly specialised epidermal appendages. Finger- and toenails are made out of a tough fibrous protein, the alphakeratine. The nail consists of the nail plate, the nail matrix and the nail bed below it, and the grooves surrounding it.1

Although Elie Metchnikoff, the discoverer of the phagocytosis, had formulated at the beginning of the 20th century the concept that some bacteria present in food, known today as probiotics, could have a positive effect on human health, bacteria present in humans were considered to be either causes of diseases or non-pathogens tolerated by the organism but devoid of any physiological activities of interest.

In a vast global cosmetics market forecast to reach US$ 675 billion by 2020,1 only the fittest can survive. That means outstanding consumer insight, creativity, constant NPD and a sharp focus on quality.

Consumer consciousness is ever present and the desire for a healthy lifestyle is reflected in the products they use.

When it comes to innovation, technology and effectiveness, Korean beauty is the undisputed world leader. The country is home to thousands of beauty brands, with the leading players launching between 2030 new products every month.

As time goes by, ageing is an inevitable thing for humans, especially skin ageing. Skin ageing is caused by the degradation of elastin and collagen. The degradation of collagen and elastin (skin ageing) can be caused by intrinsic and extrinsic processes and usually starts during the twenties or thirties, so it is recommended for young women to prevent it as early as possible.

Personal Care and Homecare Ingredients (PCHi) concluded its 11th edition on a high note in Shanghai. Held from 19 to 21 March 2018 at the Shanghai World EXPO Exhibition and Convention Center (SWEECC), PCHi 2018 attracted 21,856 trade professionals (15% increase over 18,972 visitors in 2017) eager to discover innovations presented by 544 exhibitors from 29 countries and regions.

In the past years, extremolytes became well-established active ingredients thanks to their special efficacy and characteristics.

The skin is the biggest organ of the body; it corresponds to 16% of its total weight. Composed by various layers, its primary role is to create an interface between the organism and the external environment. Skin helps to protect the body, creating a barrier more or less porous. Indeed, cutaneous tissue is daily exposed to multiple aggressions.