FEATURE ARTICLES

19. Eberlin,‡* M.C.V. Pereda,‡* G.C. Dieamant,‡* C. Nogueira,‡* M.L.S. Queiroz* – ‡Chemyunion Química Ltda, Sorocaba, Brazil *Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Campinas, Brazil

Despite the frequency in which it occurs, little has been written in scientific literature on the treatment of periorbital disorders (POD).

The absence of statistics, given the frequency of its occurrence, is counterbalanced by the amount of advertising on cosmetics marketed to treat it. This indicates that POD are a cosmetic concern for a large number of individuals.1,2

James V. Gruber, Ph.D., Lisa Bouldin, Suzanne Wilford, Robert Holtz, M.S. – Arch Personal Care Products, USA

It is well established that human skin, which comprises about 70 microns of the outer protective cover for humans, is the principal barrier against the body’s dehydration. Within the confines of the stratum corneum, epidermis and dermis lies a water gradient that is low at the surface of the skin and increases quickly as one probes deeper into the skin.1

3. Reymermier,‡ I. Pernet,* B. Sohm,‡ E. Perrier‡ –‡ Engelhard, Lyon, France *Clinique Dermatologique, Hôpital E. Herriot, Lyon, France

Normal human skin is constantly exposed to injury and challenged by environmental microorganisms which do not produce evidence of clinical infections.

This suggests that skin has an innate ability to fight invading microbes.

Stephanie Chan – Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Singapore

It is said that the Asian beauty market is one of the fastest growing in the world, with an annual growth rate of not less than 20%.

According to some estimates, the Singapore retail market for luxury beauty products is worth S$120 million annually, with perfume sales making up a quarter or approximately S$30 million. Skin care accounts for 40% while makeup takes almost 35%.

Dr Arturo Puig, Anna Montero – Lipotec SA, Spain

The aim of this article is to offer a general overview of the mechanisms and molecules involved in maintaining the structure of the skin by modulating the adhesion of skin cells with each other and with other supporting structures.

The study of the mechanisms of skin ageing has traditionally overlooked an important area: the dermo-epidermal junction (DEJ), a basement membrane that separates the epidermis and its appendages from the dermis, provides anchorage for adjacent basal keratinocytes and acts as a barrier to the transfer of material and cells across the junction.1

Anne Laurie Rodrigues – Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, France

Beauty is famously said to be in the eye of the beholder. Concepts of beauty are shaped by cultural factors, but ultimately every woman’s beauty is an expression of her own unique personality.

This reality is reflected in LS’ Entielles, a new range of naturally derived actives from Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, the active ingredients business of global specialty chemicals supplier Cognis.

This new range explores the diversity of beauty through five actives originating from five regions across the world. It illustrates five different interpretations of beauty.

Claire Mas Chamberlin, Philippe Mondon, Karl Lintner – Sederma SAS, France

While many cosmetic body care products aim at refining and slimming the silhouette of the consumer by focusing on certain body parts (thighs, abdomen) and reducing the cellulite aspects of the skin to improve the firmness of cutaneous tissue via stimulation of lipolytic processes in the hypodermal adipocytes, other demands from the market in facial and body care search for the opposite effect.

Following a successful 2006 show, incosmetics India (formerly PCHi) is returning to Mumbai, India.

Supported by the Indian Society of Cosmetic Chemists (ISCC) and the All India Small Scale Cosmetics Manufacturers Association (AISSCMA), in-cosmetics India, running from 20 to 21 November, will feature a vast range of leading personal care and homecare exhibitors. National and international industry experts will also be delivering extensive technical, scientific and commercial educational content tailored to the Indian market.

Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH – Technical Editor

Impotence, and the evaluation of traditional ethnopharmaceutical remedies, are examined in this article. The modes of action of the remedies are described, and details of their chemical constituents given.

Male erectile dysfunction or impotence affects 10-15% of all men, which includes the figure of one in three men over the age of 60.

Emilie Desmarthon, Martine Seu-Salerno – LCW–Sensient Cosmetic Tech, France

The choice of materials was essential in the development of a new approach for colouring the oily phases in transparency.

Heidi Moser, Dr Marc Heidl – Pentapharm, Switzerland

The first synthetic peptides which were successfully introduced to the cosmetic market are the copper peptide-1 (Cu-GHK) in 2001 and the palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 (Pal-KTTKS) in 2002. Many others followed in the meantime and there are still more to come.

Pam Jones – Special Correspondent

CITE 2007 Japan A number of personal care ingredient exhibitions and conferences recently held in the Asia Pacific region have been successful in drawing attention to the latest trends and technologies.

Astron Clinica, Australia

Astron Clinica’s latest product, Cosmetrics, allows formulators to test and accurately quantify the effect of a product by extracting data from live skin.

Using the company’s unique patented technology, SIAscopy, which provides images up to 2 mm beneath the surface of the skin, it presents a solution to the challenge faced by manufacturers in the skin treatment/product markets – consumers are increasingly demanding proof of product claims.

Angela M. Sangirardi and Diana Tang– Lonza Inc, USA

This article examines galactoarabinan (GA) as a multi-functional, natural enhancer for skin care actives.

LaraCare A200 galactoarabinan is a multi-functional polysaccharide extracted from the already-harvested North American Larch tree which grows in abundance in the Northwestern US.

Ellen Botschka, Christine Monro, Tracey Ross, Nancy Clements – International Specialty Products, USA

This article examines rheological and performance studies of cross-linked, linear poly (vinyl pyrrolidone and acrylic acid) copolymer – a multifunctional rheology modifier.

Kunio Shimada, Koji Awai and Hirofumi Irie – NOF Corporation, Japan

Anti-ageing cosmetics are increasingly demanded today. Many consumers, especially women, care about keeping their skin young by controlling wrinkles and freckles and keeping their skin soft, firm, smooth and beautifully white. Ingredients for controlling the ageing of the skin are demanded and are actively studied.

Stefania Abbattista, Alain Thibodeau, Sergio Amari – B&T srl, Italy

This article examines the efficacy of olive oil derivatives in preventing hair damage that can be caused by brushing.

Olea Europea (olive) leaf extract, water* is an active ingredient extracted from the leaves of the olive (Olea Europaea) tree having antiradical, antioxidant and bacteriostatic activities.

Anna Oborska PhD – Polish Association of Cosmetics and Home Care Products Producers

Cellulite is a term used to describe changes that can be seen very often in post pubertal women.1 It appears in the area of thighs and buttocks, manifests by irregular skin contours and reflects a variety of conditions introduced in the scientific literature as adiposis edematosa or gynoid lipodystrophy.2

Beauty is a big business. As an emerging economy, India is becoming increasingly important with the fast moving consumer goods (FMCG) market opening up, retail turning around and the Indian youth – men and women – becoming more experimental and discretionary concerning their approach to skincare.

Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH – Technical Editor

Significant growth is being maintained in China’s cosmetics sector manufacturing base, and the need of Chinese formulators to acquire information about the latest developments with raw materials and ingredients was underlined by their strong attendance at the recently-held international Personal Care Ingredients Asia (PCIA) event recently held in Guangzhou.