‘Natural – by design' introduced at in-cosmetics in Paris

schülke has launched a new multifunctional cosmetic additive at in-cosmetics 2013 in Paris. With the new product launch a lot of public attention was attracted. sensiva PA 30, presented in the innovation zone, was one of the 15 finalists of the Best Ingredients Award.

“We had many fruitful discussions at our booth with interested customers looking for solutions and new concepts of antimicrobial stabilisation without molecules under discussion. Our new multifunctional sensiva PA 30 exactly meets these expectations.” said Karin Stoffels, product manager for Cosmetic Additives.

The new blend sensiva PA 30 was presented beside the established preservatives (euxyl) and multifunctional additives (sensiva):

Half natural, half nature-identical, sensiva PA 30 is the perfect protection for cosmetic formulations.  Like the perfect spirals found in nature, nature-identical materials take inspiration from nature. sensiva PA 30 combines the antimicrobial activity of two nature-identical fragrance ingredients with the boosting and skin care properties of a naturally-derived emollient for a soft preservative system that is ideal for leave-on, wet-wipe and sensitive applications. 

Many naturally occurring substances have antimicrobial properties. Their natural growing cycles and other environmental variations can have a significant effect on their activity level. An alternative to natural material use that is finding increasing acceptance is the use of nature-identical substances. These synthetic materials are chemically identical to materials found in nature. However, activity level, colour and odour can often be more easily controlled and standardised. sensiva PA 30 contains nature-identical phenethyl alcohol, a fragrance component found in many essential oils. This material has been found to have antimicrobial activity similar to the more commonly used traditional preservative phenoxyethanol.

The antimicrobial activity of phenethyl alcohol can be boosted by the addition of other nature-identical materials. Undecyl alcohol, occuring in many plants including apples, citrus fruits and coriander leaves, can boost the activity of antimicrobials. The nature-identical version of this compound contained in sensiva PA 30 acts as an excellent booster for the antimicrobial properties of phenethyl alcohol and significantly reduces its flowery, rose-like scent. The faint scent of sensiva PA 30 can mask possible unpleasant odours of other ingredients in formulations.

The natural content in sensiva PA 30 is derived from corn. This well-known moisturiser, propanediol, improves the skin feel of formulations while enhancing the efficacy of antimicrobial compounds. The combination of naturally-derived material with nature-identical materials in sensiva PA 30 can effectively stabilise cosmetic formulations against typical microbiological contamination. This combination of naturally-derived and nature-identical ingredients makes it an excellent choice for nature-inspired cosmetics.

Challenge tests show sensiva PA 30 to be an effective antimicrobial stabiliser at a use level of 1-2%. Additionally, it supports deodorant activity, as it has been shown to inhibit the growth and multiplication of odour-causing bacteria.

With sensiva PA 30, schülke has formulated a nature-inspired multifunctional cosmetic additive that is peerless protection for leave-on, wet-wipe, and sensitive applications.