BB Secret Cream

BB Secret Cream contains sun filters that can protect the skin from sun damage. The formulation creates a smooth and homogenous layer on the skin, hiding imperfections for a natural soft-focus effect. Olivem 1000 restores and moisturizes the skin. Sensolene® nourishes and stimulates the rebuilding of skin elasticity. Propolis Oléoactif® TL keeps skin healthy and smoothes wrinkles. This formula was subjected to in vitro analysis and delivered SPF ~ 20, PFA ~ 3 performance with critical wavelength 375 nm.
Phase
Product
INCI Name
Supplier
Volume
A
Water (Aqua) (deionized)
to 100
Glycerin
1.00
Disodium EDTA
0.05
B
Xanthan Gum
0.25
C
Titanium Dioxide
4.50
D
Iron Oxides (red) (CI 77491)
0.16
Iron Oxides (black) (CI 77499), (red) (CI 77491)
0.08
Ultramarines, Silica
0.04
Titanium Dioxide
5.00
Iron Oxides (yellow) (CI 77492)
0.74
E
Water (Aqua) (deionized)
3.00
F
Ethylhexyl Salicylate [Octisalate]
4.50
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate [Octinoxate]
5.00
Octocrylene[Octocrilene]
4.50
HallBrite® BHB*
Butyloctyl Salicylate
2.70
Sensolene®*
Ethylhexyl Olivate
1.80
Olivem® 800*
Ceteareth-6 Olivate
1.00
Olivem® 1000*
Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate
2.70
Oliwax®
Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables
1.50
Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables
1.00
Oléos Propolis Oléoactif® TL
Heliantus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Propolis Extract
0.50
BHT
0.10
G
Silica, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides
1.00
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
1.00
H
Preservative
a.n.
Biochemica® Vitamin E Nat
Tocopherol
0.10

Preparation:

Combine phase A in the main vessel. Heat with mixing to 80°C–85°C. Disperse phase B into phase A using a suitable dispersion unit (e.g., Silverson, Ultra-Turrax®). Add phase C using the dispersion unit. Prepare phase D in a separate vessel, using the Polysorbate 20 to wet the pigments. Add phase D to the main vessel, using phase E to wash in all of the contents. Re-heat batch to 80-85°C. Add phase F, using the dispersion unit to mix 3 minutes, then add phase G. Cool batch and add phase H while mixing until smooth and uniform.

Notes:

Properties (25°C) Appearance: Soft, natural beige cream Viscosity (10 rpm, Brk, RVD-E, T-B, after 24 hours at room temperature; mPa∙s): 25,000–15,000 pH: 6.0–7.0
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