Water-In-Oil Mineral Sunscreen Cream SPF 40

SolaStay S1 improves the sunscreen performance of this broad-spectrum cream by mitigating the photocatalytic and reactive oxygen species-generating activities of oxides, protecting from photodegradation. HallBrite BHB aids the wetting and dispersion of oxides and enhances product feel. A. This formulation was subjected to in vitro analysis and delivered SPF ~42, PFA (PPD) ~18 performance with critical wavelength 378 nm.
Phase
Product
INCI Name
Supplier
Volume
A
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
10.00
Sensolene®*1
Ethylhexyl Olivate
3.00
HallBrite® BHB*2
Butyloctyl Salicylate
5.00
Tocopheryl Acetate
0.20
SolaStay® S1*2
Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene
2.00
Cyclopentasiloxane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate
3.00
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
2.50
Cetyl Dimethicone
1.00
B
Titanium Dioxide [Titanium Dioxide], Aluminum Hydroxide (60 nm primary particle size)
3.00
Zinc Oxide, Triethoxycaprylylsilane (30-200 nm primary particle size)
8.00
C
Beeswax
0.30
C30-38 Olefin/Isopropyl Maleate/MA Copolymer
0.50
D
Water (Aqua) (deionized)
up to 100
Disodium EDTA
0.05
Sodium Chloride
0.50
E
Butylene Glycol
3.00
Preservative
a.n.

Preparation:

Add phase A to the main vessel and start mixing. Disperse phase B in phase A and heat to 85°C. Add phase C and mix until all ingredients are dissolved. Add phase D to a secondary vessel. Mix until fully incorporated. Start heating to 80°C and add phase E. When both phases are homogeneous and at their designated temperatures, start homogenizing phase ABC while slowly adding phase DE. Cool under continued shear to desired filling temperature

Notes:

Appearance: Off-white cream Viscosity (20 rpm, Brk, RV DV-II, T-D, after 24 hours at room temperature; mPa∙s): 17,000–29,000
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