FEATURE ARTICLES

Dr R.J.W. Hefford – Consultant, Independent Cosmetic Advice Ltd, UK

This article covers three areas: hair lightening achieved with an oxidation reaction process, oxidative hair colouring, and direct hair colouring.

12. Schubnel, S. Moyrand – Gattefossé, France

Sensorial characteristics are often of major importance in the development of products. In the personal care area, these characteristics relate to texture, colour and smell. Sensorial qualities are also elsewhere valued widely in such sectors as food, textiles, packaging, decoration, and even architecture.

Pierre-Yves Morvan and Romuald Vallée – Codif International, France

The fundamental role of urea in maintaining the skin’s moisturisation is well known.1

Concentrated in the stratum corneum, where it represents 7% of the natural moisturising factor (or NMF),2 it is naturally present in normal skin, but its concentration falls rapidly by 50% in dry skin and 85% in skin suffering from dermatosis.

This drop in urea content is irremediably accompanied by a depletion of NMF and therefore loss of moisturisation.3 The skin becomes wrinkled and loses its suppleness and radiance.

Martha Tilaar – Founder of the Martha Tilaar Group Wong Lip Wih, Anna S. Ranti, Suryaningsih, Maily – Martha Tilaar Innovation Center, Indonesia; S.M Wasitaatmadja – Dermatologist, University of Indonesia

The demand for naturally-derived active ingredients for cosmetics continues to increase. Several aspects should be considered when utilising plant materials in cosmetics – these aspects include the quality of the plant materials, processes, biological activity, and safety.

The objective of our study was to look for moisturising and antioxidative agents in Indonesian botanical resources which contain flavonoid and polyphenol.

John Staton – Dermatest, Australia

Anti-ageing covers a substantially broad area of claims associated with both the prevention and the treatment of chronological and environmental effects on the condition of human skin.

A large number of instrumentally based clinical methods are available for the substantiation of claims related to anti-ageing. This article describes the most common of these and considers only those which are essentially non-invasive.

Alain Khaiat Ph.D – Seers Consulting

Intrinsic ageing is the natural process of ageing, due to the clock ticking. Extrinsic ageing is the process of ageing due to external factors.

The 13th Cosmoprof Asia beauty sector event is to be held from 12 to 14 November at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre. This trendsetting event each year confirms its global role in the world’s beauty event calender. With its 48,000 m2 of exhibition space, the fair is surpassed only by the giant Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna.

J.M. Carey, B. Moran, F. Shuster and B. Vondruska – Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Noveon Consumer Specialties, USA

Careful design of sensory properties can transform a skin care routine into a pleasant, memorable experience. Imagine being able to efficiently tailor sensory profiles to individual preferences. The Noveon Consumer Specialties group of Lubrizol Advanced Materials has developed visual tools that will enable formulators to easily select the appropriate products to meet desired formulation aesthetics and skin feel. These tools centre on proper selection of Carbopol polymer and Schercemol ester combinations to influence sensory properties, which is the essence of the SensiMap concept.

Karin Stoffels – Kaden Biochemicals (subsidiary of Symrise), Germany

Surfactants are of widespread importance in the detergent industry as well as in the cosmetic industry. Additionally they are used for lubrication, catalysis, and in drug delivery.

Harald van der Hoeven, Sabrina John – CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr Kurt Richter GmbH, Germany

For any living organism, presence of water at the sites where it is essential for normal functioning is crucial for survival. The outer layer of the skin provides a typical example of the human body preserving water at an essential site (in close proximity to a dry environment). It is therefore understandable that control of the presence of water is one of the fundamental properties of the skin.

Dr Fernando Ibarra – Dr Straetmans GmbH, Germany

Alternative preservation is becoming more and more popular, and many products that claim to be “preservative free” or “free of synthetic preservatives”, “paraben free” etc are on the market.

Julian P. Hewitt – Croda Europe, UK Jonathan Stott, Alice Duggan – Oxonica Materials, UK

In order to maximise efficacy in sunscreen formulations, it is desirable to have sunscreen actives which are photo-stable. It is known that certain organic UV filters are subject to photo-degradation,1-5 and therefore the development of technologies to improve the photo-stability of these filters has been the subject of much research in recent years.1,6

R.M.R. Gijsen – PURAC, The Netherlands

The human skin is a vital organ with many functions, the most important being to protect the body against undesired influences from the environment. In order to maintain this barrier function, the skin should stay in a healthy condition.

Roland Jermann, Kimberly Smith, Aline Hueber – DSM, Switzerland

Titanium dioxide is often added to sun care formulations to complement organic UV filters and boost the SPF value, particularly when trying to achieve an SPF of 30 or higher.

Many of the exhibitors at in-cosmetics Asia in Bangkok (4 – 6 November) will be demonstrating how the scope of what is achievable with formulations continues to be increased.

Naturals will be to the fore, and promoted will be high performance botanical extracts for sunscreen and whitening cosmetics and superior botanical emollients.

Key trends, issues and challenges facing personal care product formulators in the Asia Pacific region will be explored during a comprehensive education programme featured at the forthcoming in-cosmetics Asia show in Bangkok, Thailand (4-6 November 2008).

Isabelle Imbert Ph.D., Anne-Francoise Clay, Joel Mantelin, Karine Cucumel Ph.D. – Vincience, ISP Global Skin Research Center, France

Mitochondria play a central role in metabolism and bioenergetics, and their main macromolecular structures have been determined down to the atomic level.

However, the study of mitochondria is far from exhausted. Recent understanding of the essential role of mitochondria in the ageing process has raised considerable interest in a new anti-ageing approach that involves the development of new target molecules to protect against mitochondrial ageing and dysfunction.

David Boudier, Catherine Lenaers, Claire Sabbadini, Delphine Creel, Brigitte Closs – Silab, France

Natural, organic, botanical, sustainable, green chemistry… these words reflect the market trend of the cosmetics industry towards “greenness”. For more than 20 years, Silab has developed and manufactured natural active ingredients for the cosmetics industry.

Martha Tilaar – Founder of the Martha Tilaar Group Wong Lip Wih, Anna S. Ranti, Suryaningsih, Maily – Martha Tilaar Innovation Center, Indonesia; S.M. Wasitaatmadja – Dermatologist, University of Indonesia.

Natural cosmetic ingredients have shown tremendous growth in recent years, and studies have been conducted on botanical extracts for cosmetic use. Several aspects should be considered when utilising botanical materials in cosmetics – such as the quality of the plant materials, processes, biological activity, and safety.

Ray Carson – Natural8 Ltd, UK

Injectable agents, such as collagen, have been used for some time to provide longlasting lip enhancement, but this method is invasive and relatively expensive.