FEATURE ARTICLES

Collagen and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) are major constituents of the extracellular matrix of human skin. They play an essential role in skin biology, influencing, inter alia, elasticity, integrity, wrinkle profile and evenness of skin as well as skin moisture content.

Rather than act on stem cell multiplication or proliferation, Codif Recherche et Nature is developing a new approach to improve the mobilisation and renewal capacities of ageing stem cells by giving them back the activity of their youth.

Pigments such as titanium dioxide and iron oxides and fillers like talc, mica and starch are the essential parts of colour cosmetic formulations.

Conserving biodiversity means not only monitoring plant and animal species but involves also the protection of their biotopes. The green trend in cosmetics supports biodiversity by achieving sustainability through organic farming, fair trade, waste management and environmentally sound energy production (L. Kromidas).

in-cosmetics, the leading global business platform for personal care ingredients, is taking place from 21 to 23 April 2009 in Munich, Germany.

Due to a greater consumer interest in natural, organic, and environmentally friendly products, organic cosmetics have carved out a stable and profitable niche for the cosmetics industry, which is intensifying the development of new brands every year.

SCS Formulate is a UK event where new ideas are formed, scientific advances adopted and innovation applied.

Applying on the skin a functional substance containing a relevant amount of polysaccharide, vegetable origin hydrolysed proteins and amino acids, creates better protection and hydration of the skin. This is because it can allow the restoration of normal skin hydration, particularly where a physiological lack of cutaneous factors is present – in, for example, dry, reddened and stressed skin with a tendency to ageing.

The production of metabolic energy from microbial fermentation of small molecules is examined in this article. Recent developments for cosmetic and personal care products have imitated ideas from the food, nutritional and pharmaceutical industries for crossover applications. Until recently, skin care and skin health was restricted to mainly cosmetic applications such as topical creams rather than internal nutrition.

Despite all the economic doom and gloom around, the BRIC countries (Brazil, Russia, India, China) look likely to buck the downward trend. Recent predictions expect India’s economy to grow by 5.1% in 2009 while many European countries will see negative growth of around 2%. So there is good news for companies already investing in India and those considering that market. For companies in the cosmetics and toiletries industry the news is even better. Sales in this sector grew by 46% in the period between 2002 and 2007 and are set to continue at this rate to 2012 (according to Euromonitor).

The value of face in Asia is not merely rhetorical but also superficial. The importance that Asians attach to their facial beauty is translating to strong demand for skin care in Asia. This is evident by the fact that skin care in Asia accounted for 38% of cosmetics and toiletries sales (US$26 billion) in 2007, up nearly 7% in value terms. Euromonitor International’s latest study on cosmetics and toiletries highlighted that nourishers/anti-agers are spearheading skin care’s performance in Asia.

The number of natural butters continues to grow, and the importance of the wide variety offered is increasingly important. It is hoped that the popularity of these materials will spur the extraction of natural waxes which would be equally acceptable to the natural chemist who is limited by the current choices available. Information about butters is often very confused and this makes identification difficult.

Examined in this article are the protective effects of turmerones from Curcuma longa against UVB-induced oxidative stress – upregulation of cellular defence systems.

Detailed in the following pages are preservative regulations applying in Europe, China (including Hong Kong), the ASEAN countries, Taiwan, Japan, the United States and Australia.

Mickey McDonnell – Honeywell, United States

Desquamation is the natural process of old, dead cells falling off the surface of our skin. It is estimated that each of us sheds as many as a billion cells each day.1,2 Desquamation has been postulated to evolve in order to remove the cells damaged by airborne toxins and eliminate waste from inside the body, such as excess iron.2 Exfoliation hastens the desquamation process and exposes skin cells with a brighter appearance and a tighter feel. Chemicals can be used to reduce the cohesion between the cells and promote sloughing, but the physical action of exfoliating beads may be a safer way to achieve the same result.

Anne Laurie Rodrigues – Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, France

Sensitive skin is healthy but overresponsive, i.e. it will react faster and more intensely to environmental factors – temperature changes (heat as well as cold), and sunlight – and external stimuli including the use of cosmetic products and certain medicines.

Kevin Roden – Regional Technical Manager, Asia Pacific, Thor Specialties

Preservatives are regarded by some segments of the public as toxic chemicals put into our food and personal care products by uncaring manufacturers indifferent to the fact that they are causing all types of horrible effects on unsuspecting consumers.

Sheree E. Cross, Michael S. Roberts – University of Queensland, Australia Michael Russell, Ian Southwell – NSW Department of Primary Industries, Australia

This article examines an assessment of the human skin penetration of essential components of Australian tea tree oil.

Sophia Kim of Cognis Korea and Isabelle Benoit of Laboratoires Serobiologiques

Traditionally, white skin conveys “beauty” in Asia and developing brightening skin care products are challenges for cosmetic formulators who need to meet the high expectation of consumers. To achieve effective whitening from active ingredients, formulators need to consider the right selection of polymers, emulsifiers and emollients for a successful formulation.

Wong Shuiling – Croda China / Beijing University of Chinese Medicine

Ageing has many definitions. Most of us define ageing in terms of the appearance of people in our life experience. Some scientists described ageing as a decrease in functional capacity. This view actually is consistent with the traditional Chinese medicinal concept as presented in Yellow Emperor’s Inner Classic (Huang Di Nei Jing) thousands of years ago. The book described in detail the functional cycles of men’s and women’s lives and the deterioration of functional capabilities with old age.