FEATURE ARTICLES

This article looks at the impact that Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008 commonly referred to as ‘CLP’ is having on the regulation of cosmetic products. It looks at the classification of some of the ingredients listed in the annexes of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 and how this may affect their future use.

Lip oil is a novel delivery platform designed to provide nourishment and colour to the lips. The trend was sparked with the launch of Clarins Instant Light Lip Comfort Oil1 which the brand describes as: “a lip care treatment infused with all the power of plant oils to nourish and enhance your lips’ natural beauty.” This launch was followed with Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) introducing Volupte Tint-in-Oil2 which YSL describes as a: “revolutionary lip color with a lip tint suspended in a deep conditioning oil.”

The world of naturals in cosmetics is evolving dramatically. A truly natural positioning is increasingly important to consumers and naturals are also becoming more important due to their association with sustainability. However, consumers are not prepared to compromise on product performance and these drivers accompanied by developments in technology mean we have moved a long way from simple natural material additions to today’s complex formulations.

Since March 2013, the animal testing ban for cosmetics has been fully implemented in the European Union. The ban applies irrespective of the availability of test alternatives for most of the hazard areas of interest in human safety assessments and a derogation mechanism is not in place. For some hazard areas the development of in vitro alternative methods will still take many years.

Making Cosmetics 2015 took place on 24-25 March at the Ricoh Arena, Coventry, UK. The show has been increasing its presence in the cosmetics industry over the past three years since its inception, and now represents one of the key dates on the European calendar, which is quite an achievement in such a short space of time.

in-cosmetics Korea is the new personal care ingredients show in Korea where 150+ international suppliers will showcase their products to cosmetic manufacturers and distributors.

Cutaneous ageing is a complex biological process influenced by a combination of endogenous or intrinsic (e.g. genetics, cellular metabolism, hormone and metabolic processes) and exogenous or extrinsic (e.g. chronic light exposure, pollution, ionising radiation, chemicals, toxins) factors, primarily due to UV/photo damage.1 Many studies have helped us better understand the difference between chronological ageing and photoageing.

Zinc oxide (ZnO) shows excellent visible light transparency and ultraviolet (UV) radiation shielding ability, and is used for various cosmetics.1,2 It is also known that the morphology of the ZnO particle can be easily controlled.

The UK hair care market for shampoos and conditioners is currently undergoing a renaissance. After weathering a period of recession between 2006 and 2009 it has since grown at over 3% per annum and is currently valued at £814 million. This growth shows no signs of decreasing and the market is expected to be worth close to £1 bn by the end of the decade.1

We take most products for granted in the sense that they are contained in some kind of appropriate packaging ready to be used where and when that packaging is opened. We simply dispense or remove it from that packaging and then use it as one would expect – simple, uncomplicated and requires little, if any, thought.

Inspired by nature and designed from its environment-friendly philosophy, Brasca introduces Olifeel TD 7525, a patented innovative soft touch oil with an interesting and unique sensorial profile. The present study submits a summary of performed tests to assess the skin penetration ability.

The history of colloidal oatmeal goes back to ancient times when various skin disorders were treated effectively with the common oat (Avena sativa).1 Treatment with colloidal oatmeal for sunburn, poison ivy, eczema and psoriasis has been well documented in the literature.2,3 In 2003, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approved colloidal oatmeal as a skin protectant.4

Skin care is the major topic for the personal care market. People demand to remain young, with better looks as they age, such as smaller pores, fewer wrinkles, and less sagging, and to moderate skin disorders, such as irritation, dryness, redness, dandruff etc. The former target is mainly known as anti-ageing. The main target is to remodel and rescue our skin from intrinsic and extrinsic damage.

According to James Lovelock,1 the physicochemical and biological processes of our planet, if linked together in an intricate way, are easily understandable and capable of self regulation to maintain the best rules for living.

Each cosmetic product marketed requires a challenge test (CT), regulated by the European Regulation 1223/2009. According to this regulation, CT is not required for two categories: low microbiological risk products (e.g. product with alcohol above 20%, products with organic solvents, high/low-pH product), and single use or no air contact products.1

Preservation is a vital part of any personal care formulation. We require preservatives to protect our products from the effects of bacterial, yeast and fungal growth. Selecting the correct system to perform this task is not a simple process – many factors will need to be considered before the correct choice can be made.

Preservation has always been under the spot light; even more so is preservation of natural products.

Marinova, an Australian biotechnology company, developed two speciality cosmetic ingredients from marine algae. Maritech Bright is a Fucus vesiculosus derived extract (pictured) comprising both fucoidan and polyphloroglucinol, and Maritech Reverse is a high purity fucoidan from Undaria pinnatifida. Fucoidan is a sulphated, fucose rich polysaccharide with multiple bioactivities. Polyphloroglucinols are unique marine algal derived polyphenols with profound antioxidant activity.

Enlarged pores and shininess are no longer an exclusive problem of teenagers. In fact it is a great concern among adults from different ages and all around the world. A marine biotechnological ingredient has proved to be an effective candidate to control sebum production and reduce pore size.

We recognise that customers of the personal care and cosmetics industries may have an innate negative reaction to the concept of responsible pesticide/ herbicide use, as well as solvent extraction methods. Indeed, even benign chemistries such as parabens and silicones are more frequently referred to as inherently ‘bad’ and ‘unnatural’.