FEATURE ARTICLES

Natural preservation is one of the most popular topics in the industry and attracts the attention of even the most traditional of formulating chemists. This article looks at the theoretical development of a natural preservative system. The traditional methods of preservation, many taken from the food industry are summarised and the latest raw materials on offer within the industry are evaluated.

Regulations for preservatives incorporated into cosmetic and other personal care products vary between the USA, Europe and Japan – listed here are regulations for Japan. Japanese colour regulations were featured in the May 2005 edition of Personal Care, and details of sunscreen regulations applying in Japan, the USA and the European Union were provided in the July 2005 edition of the magazine.

Anew generation of cationic conditioning polymers (Polyquaternium-67) has been engineered. Polyquaternium-67 (PQ-67) is a family of high viscosity quaternised hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC) polymers with cationic substitution of trimethyl ammonium and dimethyldodecyl ammonium. These novel polymers were found to provide enhanced aesthetic feel and good compatibility with surfactant systems without the complication of associative thickening.

UV radiation can be harmful to the skin. UVB radiation has an immediate effect of causing erythema, while UVA radiation is suspected of causing long-term damage (loss of elasticity of the skin) and possibly melanoma. In addition to sunscreen products, many other personal care products have been incorporating UV actives to mitigate this damage.

Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH – Technical Editor
This article follows on from a Personal Care series reviewing Far Eastern plants which are known for their use in traditional medicine and which have also been shown to be excellent in cosmetic and toiletry applications.

Pierre-Yves Morvan and Romuald VallTe - Life Science Research Department, Codif International, France

Marine brown algae could play an important role in the cellular metabolism thanks to specific sugars and polyols naturally produced or induced after stress.

Unlike past conferences, ASCS 2007, the 8th Conference of the Asian Societies of Cosmetic Scientists, offers delegates a unique opportunity.

Naoko Mikami and Naoya Yamato - Ajinomoto Co Inc, Japan

In recent years, there has been a growing demand for a means to suppress sebum secretion and keep skin clean in young people, and exert anti-ageing effects in adults, as well as to suppress body odour in people of all ages.

16. Krisdaphong Ph.D., Dean, School of Cosmetic Science, Mae Fah Luang University, Thailand

Plants have been used in Thai traditional medicines for the treatment of diseases. Mangosteen, Garcinia mangostana L.(Clusiaceae), is a tree fairly widespread in Southeast Asian countries, and is known for its medicinal properties.

Ashoke K. SenGupta and Kevin Cureton - AMCOL Health and Beauty Solutions Inc, USA.

Solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation poses serious threat of human skin damage which may range from a short-term hazard like erythema, i.e., sunburn, to long-term hazards such as skin cancer and/or premature ageing of the skin.

Drom Fragrances International, Germany

Drom creates top-quality perfumes, which are marketed all over the world under the brand names of famous fashion designers, as well as developing personal care products, soaps and even special fragrances for cinemas.

Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH - Technical Editor

The personal care market is becoming obsessed with a number of concepts which seem to have become the norm for most marketers.

Alain Thibodeau, PhD - Atrium Biotechnologies, Canada

UV irradiation has been shown to have several effects on skin: DNA lesions; cellular apoptosis; immunosuppression and inflammation/erythema. With respect to actinic skin ageing - or photo-damage - the increase in matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) activation and expression is the most recognised degradation pathway induced as a result of UV exposure.

Kunio Shimada, Hiroki Fukui and Koji Awai - NOF Corporation, Japan.

In this article, the authors explain the efficacies of polymer micelles in comparison to liposomes, which are widely used in cosmetic products. The data shown are those for a synthetic copolymer [INCI: Polyquaternium-61] of 2-methacryloyloxyrthyl phophorylcholine (MPC) and stearyl methacrylate (SMA).

With over 170 local and international businesses taking part and no entrance fee, the 2007 Personal Care Ingredients Asia exhibition will provide invaluable access to technical information and expertise for visitors. The event is being staged next March (13-15) at the JinHan Exhibition Centre, Guangzhou, China.

Soh Bee Hong - Sederma, Singapore

As the hair care sector looks to develop new products in order to drive sales growth, the relatively unexploited scalp care sector is becoming a focus for innovation.

Albert Lee and Angelito B Delos Reyes - Rohm and Haas, Singapore

Introduced by Rohm and Haas is a new, multi-functional rheology modifier - ACULYN 88 [INCI: Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer].

Philip Orawski - Honeywell, USA

Rheological additives for lipids not only dramatically build viscosity but improve the aesthetics of emulsions and anhydrous systems for all types of personal care formulations.

Isabelle Van Reeth and Jinlong Yang - Dow Corning (Shanghai)

While consumers in the Asia Pacific became increasingly aware of the effects of the sun on skin, the region captured a 17.7% share of the global sun care market in 2005.a The market reached nearly $1 billion (USD) during this period and ranked ninth globally.

Andrea Mangiacavalli - Sinerga, Italy

Azelaic acid is produced by the microrganism Pityrosporum ovale (and other species), which is responsible for the cutaneous disease known as "pityriasis versicolor". This microrganism causes leucodermic spots on which melanin is not present. Its mechanism of action has been proved as a competitive inhibition of tyrosinase, the main enzyme involved in the formation of melanin.