FEATURE ARTICLES

Optimising the sensory properties of sunscreens

Julian P. Hewitt, Helene Hine, Lorna M. Kessell – Uniqema Personal Care, Wilton, UK

The use of titanium dioxide as a physical sunscreen ingredient is now widespread, both in beach sun care and daily use skin care products. TiO2 offers broad spectrum (UVA and UVB) protection from a single active ingredient, in particular giving high UVB attenuation which enables high SPF values to be achieved, either by using TiO2 as the sole active in a formulation or in combination with other UV filters. It is also an inherently safe and mild ingredient, making it especially suitable for UV protection products for sensitive skin or for babies and children.

Market dynamics of toothpaste in China

Seo Young – Rhodia Asia Pacific Pte Ltd, Singapore

Multinational companies (MNC) dealing in consumer goods significantly expanded their Chinese market share of toothpaste from 45% in 2000 to 58% in 2005 by growing premium brands vertically to reach critical mass without cannibalisation.

Multifunctional route to skin care emulsion

  1. Tang PhD, J. Guth PhD, V. Lentner, C. Cappabianca – Lonza Inc.

Safflower oleosomes are small (1-3 µ) spherical shaped “storehouses”, inside which the seed stores triglycerides for use as a future energy source. The surface of the oleosome is covered with a high molecular weight (20-24 KDa) oleosin protein which has been demonstrated to have emulsification properties.

A review of Andawali (Tinospora crispa)

Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH – Technical Editor Jean-Pierre Cavin – Managing Director, E.U.K.

This plant has been known in the west since the beginning of the last century and one of the first references we found was in a very old and revered reference book. It had not surfaced in the 15th edition of 1883 but it was in the 20th.

A biological desquamation strategy for skin resurfacing

  1. Lenaers, N. Guichard, S. Mazalrey, B. Closs, R & D Department – Silab, Brive, France

In response to the trend of surgery-like products, the cosmetic industry has launched alternative and non-invasive peeling products derived from dermatological research. These agents, mainly chemical peeling (AHAs, retinoids…) or mechanical peeling, eliminate cells on the skin surface and favour cell renewal, which provides youthfulness and radiance to the aged skin.

Suppliers’ strengths to be highlighted at PCIA 2006

A large number of important and innovatory new personal care concepts and products will be showcased at PCIA 2006 (Seoul, Korea 7-9 March).

PCIA showcase expands to offer much more

Taking place in Seoul, Korea, from 7 to 9 March 2006, PCIA is more than just an international exhibitor list, with over 200 suppliers taking part in this year’s exhibition. The combined display of the raw materials, ingredients and testing equipment will represent all the key areas of the market and the products shaping it now and in the future.

Tradition and innovation in skin cleansing

Luigi Rigano – ISPE

Cleaning away the unwanted impurities that coat our skin surface is not a simple task. Odour elimination, detachment of skin cell debris, dissolution of oxidised sebum lipids, reduction of the bacterial flora and elimination of pollution materials and make-up traces are quite easily achieved.

Influence of oligosaccharides on skin ageing

Maud Jouandeaud, Sylvie Bordes, Catherine Soulie, Brigitte Closs – Silab, France

Do UVA filters protect against photoageing?

Philip Jacobs – Symrise, Singapore

Effective preparation vital for PCIA 2006

With over 200 international exhibitors, scientific conference papers, in-depth technical workshops and free presentations PCIA deals with all the major issues and developments in the personal care market. In 10 years, the event has grown to become the largest, most important personal care event in the Asia Pacific region.

Technically auditing a factory producing cosmetics

Assessing a factory to see whether it is suitable for manufacture of cosmetics and toiletries is a vital and important part of any client’s responsibilities, especially if intending to export to a foreign market like Europe.

Hollow spheres technology increases SPF and UVA absorbance

UV radiation can be harmful to the skin. UVB radiation has an immediate effect of causing erythema, while UVA radiation is suspected of causing long-term damage (loss of elasticity of the skin) and possibly melanoma. In addition to sunscreen products, many other personal care products have been incorporating UV actives to mitigate this damage.

New cationic conditioning polymers for hair care

Anew generation of cationic conditioning polymers (Polyquaternium-67) has been engineered. Polyquaternium-67 (PQ-67) is a family of high viscosity quaternised hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC) polymers with cationic substitution of trimethyl ammonium and dimethyldodecyl ammonium. These novel polymers were found to provide enhanced aesthetic feel and good compatibility with surfactant systems without the complication of associative thickening.

Peptides as active ingredients in cosmetics

Part two: A laminin-like hexapeptide to enhance skin compactness

Peptides as active ingredients in cosmetics

Part one: A novel synthetic tetrapeptide to fight puffy eyes

Seoul PCIA value immense

Personal Care Ingredients Asia (PCIA) is well established as a “must visit” event and consistently attracts large attendances. From the inaugural show in Malaysia in 1997, PCIA has had an ever-growing reputation for bringing together formulators, specialists in personal care product manufacturing, and suppliers of raw materials and ingredients.

Naturally fortifying enhancement systems

Be it Asia, Europe or United States, the search for alternatives to conventional preservatives is a big concern. Personal care companies are searching for alternatives to parabens and paraben blends, formaldehyde donors and isothiazolinones, just to mention a few. They are looking for broad spectrum, cost effectiveness, safer, naturally derived, label friendly, more global acceptance alternatives while at the same time being able to say preservative free.

Parabens – friends or foes?

During the last decade there has been an increase in consumer awareness with regard to chemicals used in everyday life. To this effect the pressure from consumers, pressure groups, media institutions and governments around the world has increased significantly on the safety of certain groups of raw materials used in personal care and cosmetic formulations. Fragrances, dyes, preservatives, surfactants and even naturally derived materials such as those of the tea tree have come under scrutiny or so-called attack. The evolving technology and techniques now employed in evaluating the toxicology of existing materials means that the safety of many raw materials is being scrutinised, reassessed and in some cases banned from use by regulatory and safety authorities.

Shanghai event will offer special opportunities

It is now clear that Personal Care & Household Ingredients China (PCHi) will provide unrivalled opportunities for information gathering and networking. The new exhibition and conference has been designed to meet the requirements of the rapidly-growing market in China for personal care and household products. The first PCHi is being held at Intex, Shanghai, on 18, 19 and 20 October 2005.

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