FEATURE ARTICLES

Kevin O’Lenick – SurfaTech Corporation, United States Tony O’Lenick – Siltech LLC, United States

A question asked by every formulator is: “How do I get the highly desirable properties of silicone in my formulation when formulating with silicone can provide its own set of problems? In short this is what we define as “The Silicone Conundrum”, an intricate and difficult problem. The selection of the proper silicone for a formulation requires the formulator to understand why the silicone is in the formula (for wetting, conditioning, emulsification, skin feel, film formation…) and which silicone provides that property most efficiently in the formula (with all the other ingredients). First and foremost, one must understand the chemistry of silicone polymers and the effect of structure on function.

Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH – Technical Editor

The in-cosmetics event held earlier this year in Amsterdam, The Netherlands, had the most international visitor line-up of any of the shows in the series. Well-presented stands had much to interest the visitors. The show seemed very busy and indeed it was sometimes difficult to get onto stands and make the necessary contacts.

Trevor Barker – Cornelius Group, UK

REACH, the new European Union (EU) regulation, which has its name formed from “Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and restriction of CHemicals”, came into force a year ago and replaced a number of European Directives and Regulations with a single system.

PCHi, the dedicated event for the Chinese personal care and home care ingredients markets, will next be held in Guangzhou at the Jinhan Exhibition Centre (24-26 February 2009).

The event will continue to be a key networking and knowledge-driven platform with its international standard programme for hosting buyers and its first-rate conference.

Dr L. Fischer – AC Serendip, Germany Dr C. Thomas – Serendip AG, Switzerland

During recent decades, nanotechnology has become an integral part of research and development activity for cosmetic applications such as emulsions and sun care products.

Dr Jürgen Meyer – Evonik, Germany

Oil-in-water emulsions (O/W emulsions) play an important role in cosmetics: they are fundamental in the formulation of such products as body lotions, skin creams and sunscreens.

Reed Exhibitions, organiser of in-cosmetics India, has announced that Spectrum – a new show feature being launched at this year’s exhibition in Mumbai – will be rolled out in partnership with Mintel, the market research company, and Sensational Color, the US-based colour strategy consultancy.

Mickey McDonnell – Honeywell Specialty Materials, US

What is a gel? Lots of products today are sold as gels, and many actually are correctly classified, although not all. Many people associate gels with thickness, and gels often do have that property, but not always.

Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH – Technical Editor

The in-cosmetics event recently held in Amsterdam, The Netherlands, had the most international visitor line-up of any of the shows in the series. Well-presented stands had much to interest the visitors, of whom 9% were from the Asia Pacific region. The show seemed very busy and indeed it was sometimes difficult to get onto stands and make the necessary contacts.

Anna Montero, Montserrat Mangues, Silvia Reyes, Elena Cañadas – Lipotec, Spain

Skin ageing can be divided into two basic processes, intrinsic ageing and photoageing. Intrinsic ageing is characterised by smooth, dry, pale and finely wrinkled skin while photoageing is a consequence of UV exposure and is associated with skin thickening, severe wrinkling and pigmentary changes.

Cheryl Gilbert – Balanced Essentials, Australia Pauline Rose RN – Complementary & Ecological Medicine, Australia Ric Williams B.Sc. Dip.Env.St. – NxGen Pharmaceuticals, Australia

Pain management, also called pain medicine, is the discipline concerned with the relief of pain. Examined first are current “pharmaceutical” products/systems for pain management.

Dr R.J.W. Hefford – Consultant, Independent Cosmetic Advice Ltd

This is the first in a series of articles which is intended to give an introduction into the science and technology of products designed to colour the hair. This series will cover:

· The history of hair colouring.

· The structure of the hair as well as how it is damaged.

· How hair colour is described.

· The technology of current products which will include direct dyeing as well as oxidative systems and bleaching.

· How to formulate hair colouring products.

· How hair colouring products are positioned in the market.

· The safety and regulation of hair dyes.

· The future of hair colouring technology.

Trevor Barker – Cornelius Group, UK

REACH, the new European Union (EU) regulation, which has its name formed from “Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and restriction of CHemicals”, came into force a year ago and replaced a number of European Directives and Regulations with a single system.

REACH has global implications, as emphasised in Personal Care, January 2008, and meeting its requirements is far from straightforward.

As the technical manager of Cornelius, I am tasked with ensuring the company is fully compliant with the legislation. This has been, and will continue to be, an extremely onerous task due to the complex nature of the legislation and the, sometimes, ambiguous nature of the company’s position in the supply chain. Outlined in this article is how I have been tackling REACH issues.

Two major features of in-cosmetics Asia being held in Bangkok, Thailand (4-6 November 2008) will be a series of Marketing Trends presentations and a schedule of Innovations Seminars. The Marketing Trends presentations will reveal what is increasingly important from a variety of marketing perspectives, and what the “hot” topics will be in the year ahead.

Maria-Theresa Luna-Lumain – DSM Nutritional Products, Singapore

UV light does not only cause damage to the skin but also to cosmetic products.

Exposure to UV light can induce decomposition reactions which can affect the appearance and performance of the product. With respect to colour, fading and discoloration are the immediate visible effects of these reactions.

Jennifer Bishop – Lake Life Sciences, UK

Since the beginning of time, people and animals have used natural sediments for both medicinal and aesthetic purposes. Animals are instinctively drawn to clay: they roll about in mud pools completely covering their bodies in order to treat sores and protect themselves from infection and they even eat it to stock up on minerals.

Marc Heidl Ph.D. – Pentapharm, Switzerland

A new tripeptide has been shown to significantly reduce wrinkle depth on the forehead and also in the facial skin area in which crow’s feet can be present.

This article extends information previously provided (Personal Care, July 2006).

India’s dynamic cosmetics and personal care market is valued at £2.5 billion1 and is growing annually by 20%.2

It is the world’s third fastest-developing market for personal care raw materials,2 proving fertile ground for the international and Indian companies lining up to exhibit at in-cosmetics India in Mumbai this year.

Frederic Serres – Seppic, Singapore

Is hair simply an ordinary part of our body? Studied by scientists and styled by hairdressers, hair has always been the focus of close attention.

Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH – Technical Editor

The planet cannot withstand the plunder of its treasures without some investment by man for the future.

It is an inescapable fact that oil will most certainly run out, and we will need to look to other sources for this precious feedstock that provides not only fuel for energy and transport, but also, and maybe even more importantly, the starting blocks for chemical biosynthesis.