Colloidal oatmeal re-defined as moisturising active

The FDA (2003) defines colloidal oatmeal as a Type II skin protectant [ref]. The USP Pharmocoepia defines colloidal oatmeal with the following properties:

A recent innovative extrusion process has resulted in a new ingredient by Oat Cosmetics called Oat® COM, providing additional functionality for the cosmetic formulator. This extruded colloidal oatmeal has enhanced skin-feel with superior hydration and emolliency properties. The shelf-life of Oat COM, is greatly improved over current products on the market as is the stability in formulations. The patented process produces a nearsterile product allowing for organic or natural certifications to be obtained.

The conventional method of preparing colloidal oatmeal is to finely mill US grade 1 or 2 oat, such that when suspended in water, the material forms a colloidal suspension and does not settle out. Unfortunately, because of the lipid content in oats (5%-9% and the highest of all cereal grains), and the structure of oat starch particles, only specialised mills are capable of producing high quality colloidal oatmeals. As a result, there are many poor quality products on the market today, providing less than satisfactory performance for the formulator.⁵ Furthermore, naturally milled cereal grains, oil seeds and other botanicals have naturally a fairly high bio burden –a concern for many formulators. The only method to reduce microbial counts for powders other than through pasteurisation is gamma irradiation – a process that excludes ingredients from obtaining organic or natural certification in most countries.