Skin care is the major topic for the personal care market. People demand to remain young, with better looks as they age, such as smaller pores, fewer wrinkles, and less sagging, and to moderate skin disorders, such as irritation, dryness, redness, dandruff etc. The former target is mainly known as anti-ageing. The main target is to remodel and rescue our skin from intrinsic and extrinsic damage.
People want to keep their youth or even to turn back time in order to look younger. This market is strongly growing. So, numerous anti-ageing ingredients have been developed to focus on the reactivation or boosting of cutaneous cells’ proliferation and/or skin component secretion, such as extracellular matrix-like collagen, hyaluronic acid. But on the other hand, the latter focuses are less limited to skin normalisation and/or moderation from disorder. For those targets, the focus is on skin homeostasis to naturally keep its correct levels. This skin mechanism works in normal skin but weakens due to intrinsic bio-stress, chronological ageing or immunity imbalances, and/or extrinsic stress, chemicals and sunlight (UVs/IRs).
In this study, we examined the effects of an innovative biomimetic peptide, which was developed from natural moisturising factor (NMF), for regulating biological mechanisms involved in skin homeostasis, by measuring a cellular detoxification response to extrinsic oxidative stress and an efficacy on cellular maintenance system of redox, chaperone and autophagy. At the same time, we performed a preliminary clinical trial for hydration efficacy of this moisture peptide, to assess the physical effect of the peptide, not only biological efficacy.
Our results pointed out this new NMF derived biomimetic peptide can show not only physical moisturising efficacy like the original skin, NMF, rather than well-known the moisturising compound hyaluronic acid, also has biological efficacy to induce a self-maintenance property compared to the well-known antioxidant, ascorbic acid. These efficacies are confirmed by cDNA microarray, qPCR and protein expression. Interestingly, we found this peptide could promote autophagy in a similar way to potential anti-ageing medicine, rapamycin. In conclusion, this study provides potential efficacies of this NMF-derived moisture peptide as a ‘skin care vaccine’ which induces the self-protection mechanism to maintain the healthy condition of skin, and moreover we can expect anti-ageing efficacy though cutaneous stem cell maintenance by autophagy.
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