After three days in Barcelona, it was clear that in-cosmetics 2012 had been a resounding success and displayed an industry in excellent health with a rich seam of new products entering the market.
The event, held on 17-19 April was produced with theme, Solar Beauty, and had a resulting focus on sun care products, though the whole range of personal care ingredient technology was covered by the multitude of suppliers exhibiting at the show. The show had increased its unique visitor number for the 2012 event by 5%, delivering one of the most successful editions in the exhibition’s history. Welcoming 590 exhibitors, it was also the biggest show ever, 10% larger than last year’s record-breaking Milan show. The three-day event recorded a total of 7,152 unique visitors in attendance at Barcelona’s Gran Via Exhibition Centre. The total daily visitor figure (including re-visits) increased by 9% to 13,071. As ever, the international contingent was strong, with 70% visitors hailing from outside of Spain in search of the newest products and latest developments from the world’s most innovative personal care ingredients suppliers. More than 70 new products were unveiled at the Innovation Zone – the visitor’s roadmap for launches at the show. This commitment to creativity was echoed at the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award, which saw Unipex/Lucas Meyer Cosmetics take Gold for its new ingredients Progeline and Adipofill. A man-made beach complete with real sand, deckchairs and parasols, provided the perfect Mediterranean backdrop for the in-focus Solar Beauty theme. The beach brought together a full-scale innovation platform where visitors could explore the history of sun care, chat with experts on regulation, social networks and new technologies or have their skin tested for UV exposure. Echoed throughout the event, in-focus also offered a Scientific Seminar on sun protection, panel discussions on the latest solar trends, while Mintel gave product demonstrations based on the latest sun care launches from the East and the West on the Innovation Zone. A series of well-attended Innovation Seminars, Workshops, Scientific Seminars and Marketing Trends presentations covered hot topics such as green formulations, the possible alternatives to animal testing and the cutting edge technologies involved in Cosmetogenomics, making this year’s educational programme one of the most in-demand to-date. As part of the programme, market analyst Euromonitor hosted a briefing which looked at the cosmetics market as it stands today. The presentation featured Euromonitor’s global head of beauty and personal care research, Irina Barbalova, and senior personal care company analyst, Oru Mohiuddin. Irina Barbalova explained that the beauty and personal care (BPC) industry, which saw 5% overall global growth, is continuing its upward curve in 2011 mainly due to the strong performance of premium market products. Premium cosmetics outperformed mass cosmetics across Western Europe, North America and Asia Pacific in 2011, with 4.7% growth. “The resilience of the BPC industry and the rise of premium products over mass products illustrate one of these global shifts we witnessed last year,” said Barbalova. “As companies compete for lower consumer budgets, they explore new ways of engaging with consumers.” Euromonitor’s latest research shows that leading BPC companies are seeing growth in emerging markets, but the recession in Western markets is challenging their business model, leading them to reconsider their approach to retail, mergers and acquisition, innovation and new products positioning in order to remain successful and relevant. “We see more leading BPC companies engaging in, for example, streamlined commitment to sustainability, as they see themselves taking on a broader role of improving consumer lives,” added Oru Mohiuddin.
Akzo Nobel introduced Recentia plant serum fractions, a new line of bioactive ingredients based on cutting-edge Zeta Fraction technology. With conventional plant extraction, botanical extracts are isolated from dried plants using chemical solvents as separation media. This results in plant cell degradation that enables only a narrow band of ingredients to be extracted, and leads to a host of other limitations. These limitations include poor reproducibility, low specific activity, deteriorated odour, poor shelf-life stability, minimum product differentiation, and inconsistent incoming raw materials. Zeta Fraction technology selectively isolates intracellular components from living plants and marine sources to produce a much wider range of bioactive cosmetic ingredients able to capture the powerful synergy that exists within plant cells. Also instead of using external solvents as separations media, Zeta Fraction technology preserves the inherent osmotic pressure of the plant cell juice and uses it as a separations medium. Targeted fractions are mechanically and gently separated based on their electrokinetic (zeta) potential. The result is a wide range of multi-targeted benefits which are not always obtained through conventional plant extraction technology, including: minimising formation of reactive oxygen species and free radicals (DPPH: 2,2-diphenyl-1- picrylhydrazyl), preventing oxidative damage from sunlight generated singlet oxygen, ensuring photostabilisation of active product ingredients susceptible to UV radiation, showing increased effectiveness of cosmetic ingredients, showing COX-2 inhibitory activity, demonstrating MMP-9 inhibitory activity.
Ashland Specialty Ingredients announced breakthrough anti-ageing technologies for skin and hair at incosmetics 2012.The new offerings are Ashland’s first since it acquired International Specialty Products Inc. (ISP). The company introduced Peptide Q10 biofunctional, a bioengineered peptide designed to boost the skin’s own production of coenzyme Q10, and showed that it may be possible to restore a balance of CoQ10 in the epidermis with conventional creams and lotions. Also introduced was Telosense biofunctional, a special complex of hydrolysed yeast and soya proteins that help preserve chromosomal telomeres, and Ashland showed how formulators may focus on cell integrity in support of beautiful skin. Ashland explained that Procataline biofunctional, a special pea extract designed to help combat oxidative stress in hair follicles, is a breakthrough technology for use in leave-on hair care products, as demonstrated by in vitro and ex vivo studies. Chromafend biofunctional, an extract of flax seed, is aimed at preserving natural hair colour, while Follisync biofunctional, made with vicia faba seed extract, targets CLOCK genes in support of robust hair growth cycles. Ashland also introduced N-Hance 4572 conditioning polymer to help formulators improve the efficiency of shampoos containing natural or synthetic oils and to support more sustainable rinse-off products.
The cosmetic active ingredient business of BASF, resulting from the merger of Beauty Care Solutions and Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, presented its latest solutions to inspire beauty under its new banner ‘Beauty Creations’. Focusing on the skin and hair care market, the BASF cosmetic active ingredients business develops and manufactures cosmetic active ingredients as well as smart delivery system technologies especially designed to address key corrective actions in skin and hair care categories. In-depth research in skin pigmentation, skin ageing, protection against environmental stress, modulation of hair growth, skin architecture as well as unique R&D capabilities makes them the partner of choice for actively inspiring beauty. Experts from BASF joined the solar beauty trail and also participated in panel discussions and scientific seminars on sun protection. BASF presented its latest sun care formulations and UV filters matching the challenging market demands for sunscreens that provide protection along with ease-of-use and skin-caring properties. The Clear Spray SPF 30 and BB Desert Dune Foundation, SPF 20 formulations combine optimum UV protection with an appealing texture, good absorption and a superior sensory profile.
B&T Company was promoting its eurol WHT ingredient, and olive tree leaf extract described as a sensitive skin whitening solution. It is a 100% natural ingredient obtained through a cold extractive process, which preserves its anti-oxidant and antityrosinase phytocomplex. B&T says the ingredient takes care of the skin while ‘bleaching’ it, avoiding undesired skin irritation.
At the show in Barcelona, Clariant presented three new lines of biopolymers for skin and hair care under the theme ‘Touch of Nature’. The company also announced that it has achieved Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP) certification, according to ISO 22716, for its global cosmetics manufacturing. One of the biopolymers is called Zenvivo, which is described as a unique non-animal chitosan. It is claimed to be equivalent to high-quality animal chitosan and is available in two grades with different molecular weights. It is a functional, cationic ingredient, allowing a broad range of formulations for skin, hair and oral care.
CLR was highlighting its PhytoDefense CLR ingredient at the Barcelona show. This lipophilic active is based on the southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora). It is especially designed for pre- and posttreatments of sensitive skin. It significantly reduces neurogenic inflammation as well as skin redness after mechanical stress. PhytoDefense CLR is unpreserved, but stabilised with a natural rosemary extract concentrate as antioxidant.
Among the products on display at the Contipro Biotech stand were luvaCell Plus and Fe-Stim. luvaCell Plus is a product of a standardised isolation process delivering a high proportion of polyphenolic substances species-specific to Epilobium sp. As a result, this ingredient has potent antioxidant effects even at low concentrations, accompanied by many other biological effects that make it ideal for anti-ageing applications. Fe-Stim is a biologically active ingredient derived from green Coffea Arabica seeds. The high chlorogenic acid content achieved by multi-stage purification infuses this raw material with original qualities. It has potent antioxidant effects and low molecular weight, which eases penetration into the skin. It is beneficial in products aimed at protecting cellular structures and the extracellular matrix in all layers of the skin.
Cosmetochem was highlighting its novel anti-ageing active derived from pomegranate flowers, Colla-Gain. The ingredient is a two component-based active that not only promotes collagen synthesis but also decreases the breakdown of collagen by inhibiting MMP-1 production. It is supported by both in vitro and in vivo claims data and has been shown to stimulate collagen build-up in the skin (vitamin C component), inhibit collagen breakdown (pomegranate flower component inhibits MMP-1), increase skin density, smooth skin and reduce appearance of wrinkles, protect skin against UV exposure. Colla-Gain is also preservative and solvent free.
Croda presented a hair smoothing system utilising Crodason Cystine. This highly specialised cystine/silicone copolymer has been developed as an advanced conditioning agent for use in performance hair care products. Containing a high level of cystine, the amino acid naturally abundant in hair fibres, Crodason Cystine has been proven to prevent and repair hair cuticle damage. Enhanced by heat activation, the ingredient cross-links on drying to form a protective film around the hair fibre and confers permanent conditioning properties.
DSM Nutritional Products launched Tilamar Fix A140, a new ingredient specifically designed for hairspray aerosols to deliver the key benefits of ultimate hold and fast drying without stickiness. This will make a difference in product development in order to meet the demanding expectations of modern consumers. Hairspray users worldwide are looking for fast-drying products to maintain a chosen style all day long. Hairsprays being sticky on hair and hands are undesirable for modern consumers – both with regard to individual style creation and professional hair salons. With Tilamar Fix A140, DSM has designed an innovative polymer that delivers ultimate hold and outperforms leading market benchmarks based on bending stiffness. The long lasting effect is proven by excellent high humidity curl retention. The high performance benefits of fast drying without stickiness are delivered even in the presence of water and therefore the styling polymer is also suitable for aqueous-based formulations such as 55% VOC aerosols and non-aerosols. Professional hairdresser tests comparing different benchmarks and market products reveal the product benefits with focus on modern consumer needs. Dr Jochen Klock, global marketing manager Hair Care at DSM, commented: “Consumer expectations are changing all the time. With Tilamar Fix A140 DSM demonstrates its capabilities to deliver significant innovations to meet consumer needs.”
Grant Industries were on-hand to discuss their Gransil EP-9 ingredient. This concentrated elastomer powder emulsion is designed to enhance the aesthetics and performance of cost-effective formulas. Gransil EP-9 is the ideal platform material where its versatile emulsion design allows for incorporation into the water or oil phase of the emulsion. The ingredient offers increased elastomer concentration enhancing the properties performance. It is also effective at low levels (5%-10%) in cost conscious formulas, displaying intensified and immediate soft focus at 25%-45%, and improves formula body, cushioning, and feel. In addition, Gransil EP-9 provides a matte appearance and wrinkle correction.
Indena launched two new botanical ingredients at in-cosmetics 2012. Firstly, Centevita is an Ecocert validated extract from Centella asiatica that counteracts inflammaging and glycation. It reduces the DNA photodimerisation, decreases the markers of inflammation and prevents glycation. The second launch was Bosexil, which is a new active that counteracts photoageing and skin discomfort. Bosexil is the Phytosome form of frankincense, a perfumed resin obtained from the Indian plant, Boswellia serrata, containing boswellic acids. These compounds have been clinically demonstrated to reduce the signs of skin discomfort on damaged and sensitive skin challenged by eczema and psoriasis.
Spanish active ingredients company, Infinitec Activos, was promoting among other ingredients its Oceanspheres microencapsulation system. Nonencapsulated active ingredients can be unstable in air. Infinitec’s Oceanspheres offer homogeneous size, form and quality with no residue from the capsule A liquid is gently pumped through a nozzle system where upon exiting the fluid stream breaks up into uniform droplets. The surface tension of these droplets moulds them into perfect spheres in which gelation is induced during a short period of free fall. Solidification can be induced in a gaseous and/or liquid medium through cooling, drying or chemical reaction. There are no constraints on the type of liquid – i.e. molten material, solutions, dispersions, sols or suspensions can be used to manufacture perfectly spherical Oceanspheres.
On the Jeen International stand, the company’s Jeesperse Cold Process Wax (CPW) technology was of great interest to visitors. With this technology, emulsions that contain waxes can now actually be made at temperatures lower than the melt point of the waxes used. The Jeesperse CPW cold process, which requires just one vessel and one mixer, eliminates the heating/cool down steps and all of the issues associated producing a stable, hot process emulsion. This enables the creation of consistent emulsions from batch-to-batch while reducing energy requirements to a fraction of a conventional hot process emulsion.
First-time exhibitor, Jungbunzlauer, was discussing its range of citrate esters, special salts, glucanates and lactics with visitors. Also highlighted was its xanthan gum, which the Swiss company claim is of the highest quality and purity. It features very low microbial plate counts and a higher number of specified parameters. The company supplies xantham gum in different granulations for distinct dissolution techniques.
At in-cosmetics, Lipotec was promoting Trylagen, a combination of active peptides and proteins that can fight the processes that affect the quantity and quality of collagen as we age. It acts on collagen via three main functions: collagen boosting (by boosting the synthesis of collagen types I, III and IV, helping to compensate for our decreased production as we age), collagen organisation (by controlling collagen fibril dimensions by uniforming their diameter and spacing them regularly), and collagen protection (by inhibiting the production of human MMP-2 and MMP-3, therefore avoiding excessive collagen damage in aged skin).
Lubrizol was promoting Novemer EC-2 Polymer and Fixate Design Polymer among its range at the Barcelona show. Novemer EC-2 is a multifunctional easy-touse synthetic polymer based on acrylate chemistry used to thicken, emulsify, co-emulsify, stabilise, and suspend a variety of oil phase components. This ingredient offers improved electrolyte compatibility, efficiency, and ease of use in both hot and cold process formulations to develop new and innovative products with elegant sensorial properties. Fixate Design Polymer is an anionic, multifunctional film-forming polymer that delivers excellent performance in hair styling applications and offers formulation flexibility. When used in styling applications, Fixate Design polymer delivers high humidity resistance, tailored hold, exceptional shine, little to no flaking, enhanced volume and distinctive sensory qualities.
Sensient was promoting its range of dyes, pigments, pigment dispersions, pearls, and surface treatments. These include Covarine; mineral and organic pigments pre-dispersed in a water/glycerine mixture, Covasorb; mineral and organic pigments pre-dispersed in sorbitol; Covapate LC; mineral and organic pigments pre-dispersed in ricinus communis seed oil; and Covanol; pigments pre-dispersed in octyldodecanol.
Seppic launched its own brand of cosmetic texturising agents, called Sepimat. This range comprises six products using polymer microbeads of various shapes and sizes that are invisible on the skin. When added to cosmetic formulas with amounts between 0.5% and 10%, Sepimat ensures soft and supple skin and a matte appearance. The micro beads glide on the skin and confer a soft and powdery sensation that varies according to the dosage used. Thanks to an optic multidirectional light reflection effect and their ability to absorb high levels of oily compounds, the Sepimat micro beads combat shiny skin. Seppic also unveiled two major winter trends for 2013-2014, Apothi’Care and Fantasy Paradox, in conjunction with the Carlin International style agency. Apothi’Care concept was inspired by the trend towards tradition and authenticity, while Fantasy Paradox is inspired by luxury and baroque ornamentation, and capitalises on the desire for change and surprise. To help formulators, Seppic has created example formulas and a customisable universal chassis formulation that allows formulators to design solutions that are easy to scale-up and reproduce regardless of the active ingredients selected.
French actives company, Silab, focused on two new products, Vederine and Telosomyl. Vederine, derived from chicory aids skin synthesis of vitamin D and its specific receptor, VDR, which decreases with age and with reduced exposure to the sun, resulting in weakening of the barrier function. By acting in a manner similar to vitamin D, Vederine restores the endogenous capacity of aged cells to activate the signalling pathways regulated by VDR, stimulates the gene network dedicated to controlling the differentiation, cornification and desquamation processes, and improves the capacity to recuperate. Telosomyl, derived from red algae, limits the deterioration of telesomes which serve as a protective cap for telomeres, thereby improving longevity and slowing down programmed skin ageing.
Textron was discussing its Acnibio range of preservation systems. This range offers specific solutions to each cosmetic preservation problem, providing optimum efficacy even at very low use levels. The range is based on biodegradable actives to help achieve a harmonious balance with nature and the environment. The range of preservation systems can be effective across the entire pH range found in cosmetics and do not interfere with the fragrance or appearance of products.
The next in-cosmetics event takes place in Paris, Hall 1, Paris Porte de Versailles, on 16-18 April 2013. For more information on the 2013 show visit: www.in-cosmetics.com
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