The website of Personal Care Global

Benefits of next-generation ascorbic acid derivative

Ascorbic acid (AsA) (vitamin C) has various skin-physiological effects including an anti-oxidative effect, but as its weak point it is unstable in aqueous solution.

Although many AsA derivatives have been developed for overcoming the weak point, some AsA derivatives give an uncomfortable skin-stretching feeling and enhance the skin dryness, and still no perfect solution is found. As a solution, 2-glyceryl 3-octyl ascorbate (GO-VC) has been developed and found to have not only a higher stability but also a Propionibacterium acnes proliferation-inhibitory effect, which is never found in AsA. GO-VC is also confirmed to have a higher improving effect for acne vulgaris and improving effects for pigmentation and wrinkles. Giving the skin a comfortable moisturising feeling without an uncomfortable frictional and stickiness feeling, GO-VC is believed to be a next-generation AsA derivative satisfying all people regardless of their skin characteristics.

Ascorbic acid (AsA) (vitamin C), which is famous for having a high antioxidant effect, is known to be an important water-soluble vitamin for the skin, because AsA can enhance collagen production and suppress the production of melanin, which could induce the appearance of skin spots. Many commercial skin care products contain AsA, and in medical institutions, AsAintravenous drip treatment is provided as a cosmetic-medical treatment in many cases, indicating that AsA is an essential component for anti-ageing treatments. AsA, however, is known to be vulnerable to ultraviolet (UV) light irradiation, heat, acid, and base attacks, and can be destroyed easily as its weak points. UV irradiation and other possible radical reactions could convert AsA itself into AsA radical, a reactive oxygen species (ROS), which gives various adverse effects to the skin, as another weak point.

In order to overcome AsA’s weak points, many AsA derivatives have been developed to date. Because AsA derivatives are modified with various functional groups having unique characters such as water- or fat-soluble ability, the stabilities of the derivatives are improved. Expecting the unique characters of the modified functional groups, the derivatives can show not only the genuine AsA effects but also new possible effects due to the modified groups. At present, the developments of water- and fat-soluble AsA derivatives, and amphiphilic derivatives having both waterand fat-soluble functions are also in progress. Although conventional watersoluble ascorbyl phosphate esters (AP) can show a high acne-skin improving effect,1–3 the derivative gives uncomfortable sensory textures including stretched and dryness feelings, which are known to be originated from AsA. For improving these weak points, GO-VC (2-glyceryl 3-octyl ascorbate) has been developed (Fig. 1). Being introduced with glycerin and octanol to hydroxyl groups at the C-2 and C-3 positions of AsA, respectively, GO-VC can show high stability in aqueous solutions. Since glycerin is famous as a humectant, GO-VC can give a comfortable moisturising feeling to the skin rather than an accelerated dryness feeling. Because octanol is expected to show an antimicrobial effect, GO-VC has a possibility to express an antimicrobial effect on Propionibacterium acnes on the skin. Therefore, this study investigated the sensory texture of GO-VC and its antimicrobial effect on P. acnes, and performed the clinical study of GO-VC for treating the acne, reddish skin, pigmentation, and wrinkles.

Log in or register FREE to read the rest

This story is Premium Content and is only available to registered users. Please log in at the top of the page to view the full text. If you don't already have an account, please register with us completely free of charge.
Register

Upcoming Events

in-cosmetics Global

Paris Expo Porte de Versailles
16th – 18th April 2024

NYSCC Suppliers' Day 2024

Javits Center, New York
1st - 2nd May 2024

9th Anti-Ageing Skin Care Conference

Royal College of Physicians, London
25th - 26th June 2024

in-cosmetics Korea 2024

Hall C, Coex, Seoul, South Korea
24th - 26th July 2024

in-cosmetics Latin America 2024

São Paulo, Brazil
25th - 26th September 2024

IFSCC 2024

Recanto das Cataratas Thermas Resort, Iguazu Falls, Brazil
14th - 17th October 2024

Access the latest issue of Personal Care Magazine on your mobile device together with an archive of back issues.

Download the FREE Personal Care Magazine app from your device's App store

Upcoming Events

in-cosmetics Global

Paris Expo Porte de Versailles
16th – 18th April 2024

NYSCC Suppliers' Day 2024

Javits Center, New York
1st - 2nd May 2024

9th Anti-Ageing Skin Care Conference

Royal College of Physicians, London
25th - 26th June 2024

in-cosmetics Korea 2024

Hall C, Coex, Seoul, South Korea
24th - 26th July 2024

in-cosmetics Latin America 2024

São Paulo, Brazil
25th - 26th September 2024

IFSCC 2024

Recanto das Cataratas Thermas Resort, Iguazu Falls, Brazil
14th - 17th October 2024

Access the latest issue of Personal Care Magazine on your mobile device together with an archive of back issues.

Download the FREE Personal Care Magazine app from your device's App store

Step Communications Ltd, Step House, North Farm Road, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN2 3DR
Tel: 01892 779999
www.step-communications.com
© 2024 Step Communications Ltd. Registered in England. Registration Number 3893025