The launch in 2011 of Avenacare oat betaglucan from the Swedish company, Biovelop International AB, dramatically changed the oat beta glucan landscape, providing a high-quality, natural source, which was produced without the use of chemicals, and both affordable and readily available. Human efficacy clinical studies conducted using Avenacare substantiated the strong anecdotal and in vitro evidence for its use in skin care, and also revealed some new benefits in sun care and hair care.
Beta-glucans are polysaccharides containing chains of anhydro-glucose residues, linked with -glycosidic bonds. They occur naturally in the cell walls of oats, barley and yeast, as well as in certain mushrooms and bacteria. Their biological activity is determined by a number of factors, including their source, molecular weight, structure and shape. The betaglucan found in the bran of oats is a soluble fibre with both -[1,3] and -[1,4] linkages. The [1,3]-linkages break up the uniform structure of the -D-glucan molecule and make it water-soluble and flexible. In comparison, cellulose, which consists entirely of [1,4]--D-linkages, and mushroom and yeast beta glucans, which consist of either [1,3] or [1,3;1,6] linkages, are insoluble. It has been known for hundreds of years that oats provide benefits to the body, both when ingested or applied topically. In the past twenty years, it has become apparent that it is the beta glucan in oats, the soluble fibre element, which is responsible for many of these properties. Numerous research studies have demonstrated the benefits of oat beta-glucan as part of the human diet, and it is approved by regulatory health bodies around the world, such as the FDA and EFSA, for health claims relating to cholesterol-reduction, heart health and glycaemic response. The ancient Egyptians and Vikings recognised the beneficial effects oats can have on the skin, using them to treat various skin conditions and heal wounds incurred on the battlefield. In more recent times, oat baths have been used to alleviate the symptoms of eczema, rashes and itching. The introduction of Biovelop’s patented technology for the fractionation of cereal grains was an important development for the cosmetics and personal care sectors, since it provided chemists and formulators with an affordable and easy-to-use form of oat beta-glucan, opening up a previously niche and prohibitively expensive ingredient to a much wider market. In addition, Avenacare struck a perfect chord with consumer trends and demand; oatmeal porridge is undergoing a huge revival in popularity, which creates an excellent opportunity to transition it from the food to the personal care sector. With the exception of a 2005 in vivo study designed to demonstrate its antiageing effect, the limited existing research into oat beta-glucan had been carried out via in vitro assays. The decision was made, therefore, to conduct a series of in vivo clinical studies using Avenacare (now referred to as ‘the new oat beta-glucan’, in order to examine its benefits in three areas: skin care, sun care and hair care.
Reduction of skin irritation
Methodology
Subjects between the ages of 23 and 54 were inducted into this study. The inner forearm region, midway between the wrist and elbow, was designated as the test area. Two 2 cm by 2 cm (4 cm2) test sites (Fig. 1) were delineated using a gentian violet surgical skin marker and standard template. During the initial visit, 1.5% sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) diluted in distilled water was applied in order to irritate the skin (induced erythema) on both test sites. 0.2 mL of 1.5% SLS was dispensed onto the occlusive, hypoallergenic patch. The patch was applied directly to the test sites located on the right and left forearm and the subject was dismissed with instructions not to wet or expose the test area to direct sunlight. After 24 hours the study director removed the patch and the grade of skin irritation was determined. Treatment with the new oat beta glucan was assigned to site 1 (left forearm) while site 2 (right forearm) was left untreated as a control. Each panellist was asked to apply the test product to the designated test site twice daily (am and pm). First application took place at the test facility 15 minutes after SLS saturated patch removal. In order to assure the right amount of the test product (2 mg/cm2) was delivered to the test site, each panellist was provided with three syringes filled with the product to required volume. In order to monitor skin irritation reduction, panellists were evaluated at baseline and again after 2, 8 and 24 hours after initial application of the test material. Responses were evaluated objectively via grading performed by the trained technician using a scale of 0 (no evidence of any effect) to 4 (deep red erythema with or without vesiculation or weeping).
Results
The appearance of irritation at the treated site was found to be lower by an average of 22% after 2 hours, 39% after 4 hours and 55% after 24 hours (Fig. 2). The corresponding figures for the untreated site were 11% after 2 hours, 17% after 4 hours and 28% after 24 hours. Conclusion The new oat beta-glucan was reported to be effective in reducing the appearance of skin irritation when tested over a 24-hour period. These phenomena were documented and confirmed by the photographic record made during the course of the study. The appearance of irritation was found to be lower by 39% after 4 hours and by 55% after 24 hours for the site treated with the new oat beta-glucan.
Preventing the appearance of UV-induced erythema-1
Methodology
Subjects between the ages of 23 and 55 were inducted into this study. The panel consisted of fair-skin individuals with skin types I, II and III [as defined by the Federal Register 1999; 64 (98): 27690]. Subjects were instructed to abstain from using any lightening and sunscreen products and refrain from sunbathing or tanning bed use for a period of at least 7 days prior to study commencement. The infrascapular area of the back to the right and left side of the midline was used. Within this area one 30 cm2 (10 cm by 3 cm) rectangular test site and seven 9 cm2 (3 cm by 3 cm) test sites were delineated with a gentian violet surgical skin marker. Test site 1 was treated with the new oat beta glucan prior to UV exposure (Fig. 3). The light source used was a Xenon Arc Solar Simulator with a continuous emission spectrum in the DVB range of 290 nm to 320 nm. The UV spectra produced are substantially equivalent to that of natural sunlight. UV exposure of 1.0-1.5 MED was applied to test site 1. Test site 5 was used as a control and not treated with the new oat beta-glucan prior to exposure to UV light of 1.0-1.5 MED. Delayed erythematic responses were recorded for each of the test sites at 24 hours post exposure and then approximately every 24 hours until dispensation of the erythema (return of homoestasis). Visual grading was conducted by a trained technician using a scale of 0 (no erythema) to 5 (erythema and edema in vesicles). Lab scale photographs were taken at baseline and again at 72 hours after initial application.
Results
The appearance of UV-induced erythema at test site 1 (pre-treated with the new oat beta-glucan) was found to be lower by 44% after 24 hours and 72% after 48 hours (Fig. 4). The corresponding figures for the untreated site 5 were 0% after 24 hours and 20% after 48 hours. Conclusion The new oat beta-glucan was reported to be effective in helping to prevent the appearance of UV-induced erythema. This phenomenon was documented and confirmed by the photographic record made during the course of the study. The appearance of UV-induced erythema was found to be lower by 44% after 24 hours and by 72% after 48 hours for the site pre-treated with the new oat beta-glucan.
Preventing the appearance of UV-induced erythema-2
Methodology
Subjects between the ages of 23 and 55 were inducted into this study. The panel consisted of fair-skinned individuals with skin types I, II and III [as defined by the Federal Register 1999; 64 (98): 27690]. Subjects were instructed to abstain from using any lightening and sunscreen product and refrain from sunbathing or tanning bed use for a period of at least 7 days prior to study commencement. The infrascapular area of the back to the right and left side of the midline was used. Within this area one 30 cm2 (10 cm by 3 cm) rectangular test site and seven 9 cm2 (3 cm by 3 cm) test sites were delineated with a gentian violet surgical skin marker. Test site 3 (Fig. 5) was subjected to UV exposure using light from a Xenon Arc Solar Simulator with a continuous emission spectrum in the DVB range of 290 nm to 320 nm. The UV spectra produced are substantially equivalent to that of natural sunlight. UV exposure of 1.0-1.5 MED was applied to both test sites 3 and 5. The new oat beta-glucan was applied to test site 3. Test site 5 was used as a control and not treated with the new oat beta-glucan after exposure to UV light of 1.0-1.5 MED. Test site 7 was neither treated with the new oat beta-glucan nor subjected to UV exposure. Delayed erythematic responses were recorded for each of the test sites at 24 hours post-exposure and then approximately every 24 hours until dispensation of the erythema (return of homoestasis). Visual grading was conducted by a trained technician using a scale of 0 (no erythema) to 5 (erythema and edema in vesicles). Lab scale photographs were taken at baseline and again after 72 hours after initial application. Results The appearance of UV-induced erythema at test site 3 (treated with the new oat beta glucan after UV exposure) was found to be lower by 30% after 24 hours and 50% after 48 hours (Fig. 6). The corresponding figures for the untreated site 5 were 0% after 24 hours and 20% after 48 hours. No erythema was recorded at site 7. Conclusion The new oat beta-glucan was reported to be effective in helping to reduce the appearance of UV-induced erythema. This phenomenon was documented and confirmed by the photographic record made during the course of the study. The appearance of UV-induced erythema was found to be lower by 30% after 24 hours and by 50% after 48 hours for the site pre-treated with the new oat beta-glucan.
Hair strengthening
Methodology
Subjects between the ages of 23 and 30 were inducted into this study. In order to pre-condition the hair and keep the topical treatment consistent, the subjects were required to use a control shampoo for a period of 7 days prior to commencement and use only the control shampoo and test product for the study duration. The test product consisted of a leave-in conditioning serum containing 5% the new oat beta-glucan as the only active ingredient. On the initial day of the study, each panellist arrived to the test facility with their head washed. The trained technician removed 10 hairs from the head of each of the panellists (2 hairs from each of the following test sites: right front, right back, left front, left back, centre). During the removal process the trained technician selected hair of similar length. Each hair was removed from the scalp via a cosmetic pincette, by grabbing one hair at a time, as close to the scalp as possible and rapid pulling. Each hair was separately evaluated for tensile strength using a Dia-Stron Rheometer. All subjects were instructed to use the test product once a day for five consecutive days. On the fifth day of the study, panellists were asked to apply the test product in the morning and return to the lab for final evaluation. The trained technician removed 10 hairs from the head of each of the panellist for tensile strength analysis. The source data are Dia-Stron Rheometer readings collected prior to initial application and again after 5 days of use. The data used in the statistical analysis reflect changes from baseline.
Results
The readings collected at the conclusion of the study showed an increase in tensile hair strength of 21.68% (Fig. 7) compared to the readings taken at the start of the study before the test material had been applied.
Conclusion
Via its inclusion in a leave-in conditioning serum, the new oat beta-glucan demonstrated significant increases in hair tensile strength parameter, indicating overall 21.68% improvement in hair strength.
Conclusion
The human efficacy studies conducted using Avenacare confirmed the important role that oat beta-glucan has to play in reducing skin irritation. Applications as diverse as insect bite products, shaving products and under-arm products, as well as products for the treatment of eczema, allergies and rashes, may all benefit from the inclusion of oat beta-glucan. Moreover, the studies demonstrated benefits in presun and after-sun products, for preventing UV-induced redness and relieving redness in sunburned skin. Finally, the studies showed that oat beta-glucan can be beneficial for hair as well as skin, helping to strengthen hair and reduce breakage. The versatility of oat beta-glucan and its substantiated benefits as an active ingredient for reducing irritation, reducing wrinkles, reducing and soothing the symptoms of sunburn, and strengthening hair, make it a particularly powerful and cost-effective ingredient.
References
1 Pillai R, Redmond M, Röding J. Anti-wrinkle therapy: Significant new findings in the noninvasive cosmetic treatment of skin wrinkles with beta glucan. IFSCC magazine 2005; 8 (1). 2 www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/ betaglucan.html 3 Laroche C, Michaud P. New developments and prospective applications for (1,3)-glucans. Recent Patents on Biotechnology 2007; 1 (1): 59-73. 4 Peters D. Not just for the heart. Pure Health magazine 2011; Autumn edn: 26. 5 Clinical studies using Avenacare™ oat beta glucan conducted by AMA Laboratories in September 2011. [Complete versions of studies available on request from Biovelop AB].