Trade shows, especially keystone events such as in-cosmetics, are often seen as barometers for their respective industries, but they can also influence as well as indicate the prevailing mood, so it was important that incosmetics 2010 got off to a good start. A busy first morning marked the start of a record-breaking three days during which 7,839 people passed through the doors. This represented an increase of 26% on the previous record set in 2007, making the 20th anniversary year of in-cosmetics the best-attended in the exhibition’s history. In terms of the physical size of the show, 2010 was again a record-breaker, with 10,000 m2 of space taken up and 575 companies from over 40 countries worldwide signing up to showcase their new products.
Seminars
One of the major benefits of exhibitions such as in-cosmetics is that they offer the opportunity to listen to people who have been instrumental in the manufacture of a new ingredient discuss its activity and potential applications as well as allow the audience to ask questions. Paris had a very healthy mix of seminars and workshops, unfortunately too many for one person to visit, so, following is a summary of a selection of the seminars that took place.
On the Tuesday, Dr Mike Farwick, head of R&D active ingredients at Evonik discussed the company’s anti-ageing products, specifically HyaCare Filler CL, Tego Pep 4-17 and Tego Xymenynic. Viewed as a single, multifunctional concept, these actives target fine lines and wrinkles, skin firming and cellulite. Dr Farwick stated that the concept targets dermal and epidermal processes, achieving both short- and long-term benefits. HyaCare Filler CL is a preservative-free hyaluronic derivative and is a cross-linked version of the original HyaCare. Targeting facial fine lines and wrinkles, the product supports longer-lasting moisturisation via the particles’ increased absorption and water-binding properties. As well as hydrating the skin, the ingredient also fills in fine skin wrinkles, reducing their depth and, as a result, smoothing the skin and decreasing the visibility of lines. It is this element that Evonik claims offers almost instantaneous results, and photographic examples depicted noticeably improved skin smoothness just 15 minutes after application. The second active discussed at the seminar was Tego Pep 4-17. This tetrapeptide stimulates collagen activity which improves skin elasticity. As well as collagen, the ingredient also shows strong induction of hyaluronic acid and fibronectin, all of which are important constituents of the ECM. The effect of this activity is to firm the skin, reduce roughness and reduce a wide range of wrinkle types from fine lines to deep-set wrinkles. The final element of the discussion was Tego Xymenynic, described as a highly purified, phytochemical compound extracted from sandalwood seeds. The product boosts cellular detoxification, improves antioxidation mechanisms, relieves the symptoms of physiological stress and alleviates skin inflammation. The particular target area for Tego Xymenynic is cellulite, which is claimed to be reduced through improved dermal strength and reduced subchronic inflammation. The product effectively improves the structure of the dermis which leads to an improvement in the firmness and resilience of the skin and reduces the appearance of “orange peel”.
Also on the Tuesday, as part of the Marketing Trends presentations, Dr Leonidas Dokos, industry analyst for Frost & Sullivan presented information regarding growth opportunities for nutricosmetics in the EU and US. After establishing that the “beauty from within” concept is one of the top five trends within cosmetics at the moment, Dr Leonidas Dokos summarised nutricosmetics as a mixture of ingredients such as lycopene, lutein, beta carotene, astaxanthin, vitamins A,C, and E, collagen, PUFA (Poly Unsaturated Fatty Acids), CoQ10 fruit extract, and green tea extracts that when ingested have a preventive or reactive effect on skin, nails and hair. The nutricosmetics market is expected to grow from its current value of approximately $2.1 billion to $5.62 billion in 2015 thanks to the segment’s “hybrid effect” of combining nutrition and cosmetics into a single ingestible product. End user trials have also evolved and are able to provide solid data to back up the positive effect claims of the products. The US market was earmarked as a potentially huge market due to the fact it currently only represents 5% of the global market, far behind Japan and Europe, but is growing rapidly. The ageing population, particularly in Europe is seen as a critical element to the future growth of nutricosmetics as concerns about health, the cost of healthcare and an increasing desire for anti-ageing products becomes more widespread. In terms of the continued success of the market, Dr Leonidas Dokos stressed that education was key. Communicating the benefits of the ingredients to consumers is now a duty for the ingredient manufacturers as well as the manufacturers of the finished product. This has already started to happen, but needs to become a more common occurrence. As part of this there needs to be a greater emphasis on establishing scientific credibility, as this is the platform from which remaining consumer concerns can be dealt with. Dr Dokos stated that science is increasingly being regarded as the basis on which the manufacturers must compete.
The next day saw Sandra Catarino, business development manager of Rhodia home and personal care, outline the company’s strategy for producing “green” surfactants. In-cosmetics was chosen as the venue for the launch of Rhodapex ESB-70 NAT, a vegetable-based SLS surfactant approved by ECOCERT and targeted at natural shampoos, hand washes and liquid soaps. Rhodia aims to improve the level of choice that exists for formulators to create “green” and “sustainable” products. Along with Rhodapex ESB-70 NAT, an entire range of anionic and amphoteric surfactants was presented, including Mackol CAS-100N, an ECOCERT approved sodium coco-sulfate derived from coconut oil which provides lather and thickening properties. Others discussed were Mackam CBS 50G and Mirataine CBS, amphoteric sultaines delivering high levels of foam and viscosity while also being preservative- and DCA-free, and Miranol Ultra; an ECOCERTapproved, ultra pure amphoacetate surfactant for mild and tear-free cleansing solutions, based on coconut oil. The company also highlighted its Jaguar range of natural polymers based on vegetable guar and gum that offer a sustainable range of rheology modifiers and conditioning. On the final day of in-cosmetics, Michel Salmon, CEO of Belgian company,
StratiCELL, gave a talk on a new skin whitening product, Isopilosine. This natural imidazole alkaloid which is extracted from Pilocarpus jaborandi leaves, has been shown in studies to reduce melanin content in an in vitro model. Using the in vitro screening approach, Michel Salmon stated that StratiCELL identified isopilosine as a promising skin whitening agent as it decreases melanin content and tyrosinase gene expression. The product interferes with the intracellular pathways leading to MITF transcription and activation and regulates melanosome transfer by down-regulating key transport proteins.
The exhibition
Such was the size of the show, it would be impossible to provide in one article a comprehensive overview of the exhibitors and the interesting new products they had on offer. Following is just a selection of what we discovered.
Both Amaranth Pro and Amaranth S from Arch are based on an organic source of amaranth grain from Peru, which is high in colloidal peptides and carbohydrates. Organic sources of materials are an important healthy choice as they are produced without the use of antibiotics, added growth hormones, or pesticides. According to research published in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, organic foods have 50% to 60% higher levels of antioxidants compared to non-organic foods. Amaranth is free of allergenic gluten and is a good source of vitamins and minerals, offering nine essential amino acids that cannot be synthesised by skin or hair. Amaranth Pro is made by taking the amaranth grain in water and enzymatically hydrolysing the protein to produce a colloidal solution; further filtration removes the insoluble components resulting in a clear, aqueous solution, high in hydrolysed amaranth protein. Amaranth Pro is now available in an ECOCERT-approved version under the trade name, Amaranth Pro ECT. INCI name: Hydrolyzed Amaranth Protein
While on the BASF stand, Personal Care was introduced to the new broad-spectrum filter, Tinosorb S Aqua. BASF claim the new product solves the problem of overloading of the oil phase during the formulation of high protection factor sunscreens as it offers for the water phase an established high performance broad-spectrum UV technology with excellent photostability. The new technology enables a balanced incorporation of Tinosorb S both in the oil and water phase which reduces the uploading of the oil phase and significantly enhances formulation flexibility. Hence, in future, formulators will have more options for formulating sunscreens, particularly those with a high sun protection factor.
Extracted from sea beet (Beta vulgaris maritima), Sea Satin is a new introduction from BiotechMarine which has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. These benefits help to protect the scalp and hair from external aggressions and restore hair volume and brightness. The studies carried out on Sea Satin have shown that it helps to: markedly reduce the diffusion of inflammation mediators; control lipid peroxidation, which is very important for the scalp as it is the site of sebum production; maintain a healthy blood flow through the scalp via the effect on the PGE2 vascularisation marker and ensure a regular, nourishing blood flow for the hair bulb; and maintain a balanced and prolonged cell life. In addition, Sea Satin affords protection to the hair shaft against the effects of the weather, pollution and UV by maintaining cell integrity. In vivo Sea Satin has demonstrated a marked improvement on the overall appearance of the hair and scales, the hair is easier to comb, is softer to the touch, more glossy, better moisturised and it has greater volume. INCI name: Beta vulgaris maritima.
Clariant launched its new Integrated Preservation concept, which is a package of solutions to preserve and viscosify cosmetic formulations. Formulators benefit from higher flexibility and more creativity to develop innovative cosmetic formulations by using new preservative blends, preservative efficacy boosters and rheology modifiers. As part of the new concept, Clariant has launched Velsan SC, a natural, synergistic aid that supports the cosmetics industry’s move towards reducing preservatives in formulations. Boosting the performance of classical, listed preservatives, Velsan SC helps to decrease the overall amount needed for safe preservation. Velsan SC not only enhances synergistically the performance of phenoxyethanol or benzyl alcohol, for example, but it also helps to increase the viscosity of rinse-off formulations. Sonja Gehm, global marketing manager, industrial & consumer specialties at Clariant comments: “Our two new concepts and the innovative ingredients they offer simplify the whole formulation choice process, allowing formulators to focus in on the best ingredients for achieving their formulation goals.”
CLR has developed the natural active SyriCalm CLR, which helps to control and reduce inflammation. With SyriCalm CLR, the skin becomes less reactive to attacks and returns to a normal state more quickly. SyriCalm CLR has been proven in vitro to help against loss of cell viability and maintain the cell’s energy level as well as to protect the skin’s cellular structure and barrier function. Further work has demonstrated a strong activity against the effects of hyperosmotic stress and photosensitivity. In vivo testing has shown accelerated skin barrier repair, reduction in UV-generated erythema and anti-itching benefits. SyriCalm CLR is designed to be used where the skin is challenged by environmental stress, shaving, depilation, or daily hygiene. It helps the skin recover its natural balance and will be perfect for a wide range of applications such as daily protection, after-sun treatment and baby care. INCI name: Aqua(Water), Phragmites Kharka Extract, Poria Cosos Extract.
Cosmetochem had three new products launching at in-cosmetics 2010. Firstly, Liposome Herbasec is a new range of standardised, liposomal-based, botanical extracts in a lyophilised powder form. They are preservative- and solvent-free and are all derived from renewable resources. The current product range includes: green tea, white tea, white hibiscus, aloe vera, and guarana. Secondly, Herbasol Ecoverte is a range of ECOCERT-validated extracts that conform with ECOCERT standards for natural and organic products. This preservative-free range currently includes: raspberry, mango, lavender, lime tree blossom, elder flowers, vanilla, green tea, and white tea. The final new product from Cosmetochem is Natural AHA Complex, which is a complex of three naturallyderived alpha hydroxy acids (citric, lactic and tartaric) in powder form, formulated to deliver 20% to 30% total acids (as citric acid). Preservative- and solvent-free, the product can be used as a gentle exfoliant for both skin and scalp.
From Croda comes Crodamol ISIS. Based on a fully saturated, branched fatty acid and fatty alcohol of vegetable origin. Substantive emollient with demonstrated skin moisture-barrier enhancing effects. Used in skin care and colour cosmetics. ISIS is a highly substantive natural emollient that gives a cushiony skin feel, suitable for many skin care, sun care and colour cosmetic applications. The material has been subject of numerous trials and substantive data is now available for this material. INCI name: Isostearyl Isostearate. Also from Croda, Solaveil SpeXtra combines an exceptional level of UVA protection with high UVB efficacy, these innovative titanium dioxide dispersions uniquely allow you to formulate high SPF, broad spectrum sun protection products using a single active ingredient. According to Croda the formulations containing Solaveil SpeXtra as the sole UV filter meet European Commission guidelines for UVA protection, while achieving the high SPF efficacy typically expected from conventional sunscreen grades of TiO2. Also, since TiO2 is approved worldwide as a UV filter, with Solaveil SpeXtra global sunscreen formulations are no longer a complex and frustrating challenge, but a straightforward reality. INCI name: Titanium Dioxide.
On the Expanscience stand, the company was promoting its soothing active in the form of Soline Bio. Described as an oily active ingredient, rich in unsaponifiable molecules, Expanscience claim the product reinforces the barrier function and soothes dry, mature and reactive skin. The product stimulates the synthesis of key lipids, thus strengthening the intercorneocyte cement and ensuring effective skin moisturisation, and due to its action on the inflammation mediators, it also acts as a soothing active ingredient.
Harke was promoting its product, AstaTROL HP, a natural astaxanthin complex. Astaxanthin disposes free radicals that cause wrinkles and is claimed to be 550 times more powerful in this respect than vitamin E and 40 times better than ?-carotene. The product also improves the elasticity and moisture content of skin as well as preventing sunburn and inflammation caused by solar irradiation.
Italian company, Indena, launched a new application for its product, Zanthalene, as a novel “instant lifting” agent. Originally developed as a soothing, anti-itching agent, Zanthalene is a lipophilic extract from Zanthoxylum bungeanum Maxim, which induces a tingling sensation due to the presence of unique alkamides. Obtained through hypercritic CO2 extraction, a “green” process involving no solvents, it has recently obtained the ECOCERT validation. Based on promising preliminary clinical results, two Zanthalene formulations have been tested as anti-wrinkle agents in a three-arm, positive controlled trial, showing an immediate “lifting” activity. In the Zanthalene treated group, an immediate “lifting” activity was observed, with no desensitisation after repeated application. The product is totally harmless, does not need to be injected, and when applied as a simple cream directly on the skin, it reduces wrinkles and improves skin elasticity for hours on end.
Milk Thistle Oil from Irel exhibits extremely favourable properties regarding skin reparation and renewal due to high content of linoleic acid. Present phospholipids enhance penetration of active principles into the deep layer of the skin and phytosterols are responsible for the appropriate water retention in skin in so far that it remains fully hydrated and nourished. Polyunsaturated fatty acids, mainly linoleic acid in form of acylglyceroles; phytosterols (?-sitosterol, delta-7-stigmasterol, stigmasterol, campesterol); phospholipids, phytosqualene. INCI name: Silybum marianum seed oil.
ISP introduced the Vincience BiotHAIRapy line of biofunctional extracts. The new offerings work to target key components of the hair follicle, such as the outer and inner root sheath, the basement membrane and the hair matrix. Three new products – Dynagen, Capauxein and Protectagen extracts – represent a dynamic approach to achieving more vibrant and healthier looking hair. Extracted from yeast, corn, and rice, the new products in ex vivo testing demonstrated a significant impact on markers associated with the hair growth cycle, strand strength, follicle integrity and other aspects of hair vitality. This is achieved by boosting nutrition, increasing protein expression and markers of adult stem cells, helping defend against UV-induced damage and improving hair regeneration. Each of the three products is focused on a different area of hair wellness, but they all help to contribute to stronger and longer strands.
Anne-Laurie Rodrigues of Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, the active ingredients business of Cognis, informed Personal Care of their new product launches at in-cosmetics 2010. These included Cetiol C5, which is an ECOCERT-approved emollient that can be used as a substitute for cyclomethicones. The product spreads very quickly and has a pleasant, dry skin feel – like cyclomethicones. Cetiol C5 is ideal for facial, body, sun and hair care products, as well as decorative cosmetics. Among the latest innovations from LS on show at in-cosmetics was Eterniskin, an extract of the maitake mushroom that supports anti-ageing and anti-stress marketing claims in personal care products. This new active ingredient helps prevent accelerated ageing of the skin and restores its balance. It stimulates the formation of collagens in the dermis and at the dermoepidermal junction, thereby increasing skin elasticity and firmness. Its effectiveness has been proven in both in vitro tests and clinical studies.
The Lipo stand offered a perfect opportunity to see their array of ingredients from natural exfoliants to emollients, delivery systems to anti-ageing. One particular ingredient was Gorgonian Extract, which is claimed to be the world’s most powerful anti-inflammatory. Extracted from Pseudopterogoria elisabethae, a marine organism known commonly as the sea whip, this renewable resource is now available to be used in a variety of elegant, effective skin care and treatment products. The anti-inflammatory properties are as a result of pseudopterosins, which inhibit the production of inflammatory mediators.
From Mibelle, PhytoCellTec Alp Rose – based on alpine rose stem cells – captures the properties of these Alpine roses which are typical of the Swiss flowers which grow at altitudes of up to 3,200 m. Here they must adapt to extreme conditions such as the cold, UV and dryness. PhytoCellTec Alp Rose helps to maintain skin stem cells characteristics and to protect these precious cells against UV-stress. As a consequence, it ensures improved skin condition by increasing skin stem cell vitality, boosting the epidermal regeneration and improving skin barrier function. INCI name: Rhododendron Ferrugineum Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Isomalt, Lecithin, Sodium Benzoate, Lactic Acid, Aqua.
While visiting the Momentive stand, Fabienne Verrey-Kalaidjian discussed the company’s new product, Velvesil 034 organosilicone gel. This product helps to deliver brighter, more uniform colour among other sensory benefits in make up formulations as well as improved coverage in daily sunscreens. Other recent launches from Momentive were also promoted on the stand, including Silsoft AX conditioning agent which helps formulators enhance sleekness and manageability of hair, and Tospearl AW microspheres which help provide a smoother and silkier sensory characteristics in skincare products, with blurring of wrinkles.
Rahn were promoting Defensil. This active cosmetic ingredient protects the skin barrier and has an anti-inflammatory effect. Cardiospermum is effective against itching and allergic skin rashes. It harmonises and protects irritated skin. The stearidonic acid (omega-3 fatty acid) from the echium oil possesses antiinflammatory properties, protects and strengthens the skin barrier. The unsaponifiable elements of the sunflower oil provide valuable nutritional elements such as phytosteroles, tocopherols and squalene. INCI name: Octyldodecanol, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract. Correcting the impact of photoageing,
Silab’s new product, Retilactyl D, targets the reticular dermis and remodels the contours of the face, improving the density and firmness of the skin. The product is described as rich in ?-glucans and rhamnogalacturonans, purified from black pepper berries, which preserve the functions and synthesis capacities of photo-aged reticular dermis and offer a firming effect. Retilactyl D boosts the capacities of adhesion, contraction and migration of reticular fibroblasts and normalises the expression of the major specific matrix proteins of the tissue. SymSitive 1609 from
Symrise is an active ingredient for treating sensitive skin and dermal irritations. Increased permeability of the stratum corneum (the upper layer of the skin) and hyper reactivity of the peripheral nervous system both heighten the skin’s response to external factors. SymSitive 1609 acts as a sensitivity regulator by increasing the skin’s tolerance threshold. The substance has a major impact on burning and stinging, as demonstrated in a clinical study of 20 subjects, according to the company. Capsaicin-induced stinging and burning was lowered below the sensory threshold immediately after using SymSitive 1609. INCI name: Pentylene Glycol, 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol.