This trend is largely being driven by consumer desire and an increasing presence of European brands being retailed in Asia. Organic and “all natural” claims are prominent across the skincare category. When looking on a global level, Mintel witnessed an increase of products being launched with an organic claim across 2009, which is particularly significant given the global economic climate. An organic or natural claim is being used to immediately put the consumer at ease and imply that the product will be gentle towards the skin. With 34% of UK consumers believing there are too many unnecessary chemicals in cosmetics and, when possible, 29% only use natural or organic products, communicating an organic/natural message appears to be resonating with today’s skincare consumer. While organic formulas are driving appeal, we can not overlook the necessity for results. A key trend for 2010, highlighted by Mintel Beauty Innovation, is the emergence of Nu Natural. This details how the industry is moving towards a new vision of natural and organic which focuses less on certification and more on performance. We are witnessing brands with quite radically different backgrounds moving towards the same Nu Natural space. For example, organic brands are formulating with high tech actives and conversely, cosmeceutical brands are adding organic actives to their products. Examples of this can be seen in both the UK and US markets. An organic brand, created by two “city mums” in London and formulated by Hollywood dermatologist, Dr Lazarus, uses derma-bio nano technology and contains five different peptides that improve collagen production as well as hyaluronic acid, allantoin, red marine algae and organic extracts. From the other end of the scale, an example comes from Dermaheal with their “2 Weeks Miracle Rise n Shine Brightening Programme”. This cosmeceutical brand is offering a 100% organic and preservative-free skincare solution. The product uses growth factor mimicking peptides which are identical to skin cell molecules, and nanoencapsulated natural plant ingredients. Taking the next step along the line to more science-based claims within the skincare market, Mintel Beauty Innovation shined the spotlight on “Turbo Beauty” (brands capitalising on advances in biochemistry and medicine) as a key area of innovation. Brands are continuously executing new ways of getting consumer attention via this mechanism to express the message of expertise and address consumer concerns over the effectiveness of skincare products. An example of this comes from French pharmacy brands. Derma-skincare brands have a long heritage in French pharmacies, where trained pharmacists offer impartial advice on skin health concerns and suitable product routines. More product launches within this market are making the most of these expert associations which raises the question, can other markets benefit from the experience of this French example? Can new links with professional industries be created to further reassure the consumer that the product is safe, made from high quality ingredients and performs to a high standard? Vichy claims to be the number one skincare brand within European pharmacies and employs a highly scientific approach with their Liftactiv Retinal HA range which claims to target three types of wrinkles (permanent, reversible and programmed-to- appear) simultaneously. The Total Wrinkle Plumping Night Care product is formulated with a tri-dose of hyaluronic acid and retinol A for a resurfacing effect. The product also features a patented new multi-directional aerosol nozzle and a double phase preparation texture that provides a fresh fluid application and a smooth matte finish.
Nutricosmetics
While on the theme of innovative application methods, a growing area of experimentation comes in the form of ingestible beauty. Asia is generally regarded as the leading region in this category which has largely been driven by consumers who are open to the more diverse methods of beauty enhancement. However, Europe has experienced more launch activity than Asia with regard to beauty supplements. Globally, we are seeing the shift of different approaches to ingestible beauty. For example, the use of antioxidant superfuits became established in western markets and is now increasing in popularity the east, whereas ingestible collagen and hyaluronic acid built up a firm foundation in the east and is now making its way into western markets. A good indication of the popularity of ingestible beauty is found when looking at the sheer number of product launches within this area over the last few years. Functional beauty benefit claims doubled from 2008 to 2009. A great example of an ingestible skincare product comes from Christidis, with Beauty to Go! which capitalises on the time-starved consumer by making it extremely easy to maintain skin health. The non-carbonated water contains 20.6 mg/L of silica which helps improve skin moisturisation and enhance the tension and elasticity of tissue by supporting the production of collagen.
One to keep an eye on
The Japanese market has a highly developed skincare landscape which can not be overlooked when studying global innovation. Mintel Beauty Innovation analyses a number of prestige product launches from this market alone and a significant proportion of them are based on a quasi-medical positioning with some moving towards offering alternatives to cosmetic surgery and non-invasive procedures. One example, which uses nano-technology and was originally developed for cancer treatment, comes from Sato Pharmaceutical in the form of Excellula Power Cream. It is formulated with the brand’s original moisturising “Power Complex” with sirato extract (Macroptillium atropurpureum) which is being used for the first time in cosmetics. The brand’s inclusion of medical technology is largely based on their “Deep Delivery” system which uses nano-sized encapsulated active ingredients for a time-released action that claims to penetrate to the bottom of the skin’s horny layer. Japan, being a highly evolved player in the skincare area, has experienced the growth of product positioning which stems from a number of different sources. Innovation is not purely orientated around a scientific or medical basis but can stem from quite different origins. For instance, the Japanese movement of “Chisan Chiso”, which was first established in the early 80s, is once again running true with consumers. This trend is largely based on “producing locally and consuming locally” and has since expanded into the skincare category. Brands have reacted with products which promote their local and traditional ingredients, such as uji green tea from the southern region of Kyoto and hamanasu, which is an indigenous rose from the Hokkaido region. Overall, the skincare market currently seems to have two faces, both with polarising views. In one direction, brands are striving to capitalise on the latest scientific revelations, whereas others are taking a stroll along the natural and organic path. In some cases we are now seeing the focus of this vision meet with natural products having scientifically proven results. The important thing is not to forget the ultimate aim of this positioning and the desired effect of it upon the consumer. Is it to put people at ease with regard to a product’s ability to live up to its claims, or to allay fears of safety? As in all markets of today’s retail landscape, the consumer is king and addressing their needs is what has to be the focus of our attention.
Innovation insight in skincare: interesting products
Customised skincare
• Customisable Unisex Organic Range – Maison Absolution, France This skincare range can be adapted to the skin’s moods by mixing one of four control boosters into the basic cream, making it totally customisable and unique to the individual user. It also employs a low impact packaging policy by using recycled and/or recyclable materials, plant inks and their selected suppliers are committed to sustainable development. The products have been given an ECOCERT status and contain wild-crafted ingredients including baobab, hyaluronic acid, Australian sandalwood and marjoram essential oils. To add to this positivity, the brand gives 2% of their profits to the non-profit organisation CARE.
Anti-ageing makes a new move
• Prize Charge Cream – B&C Laboratories, Japan Restgenol Active Collagenol Prize Charge Cream targets a phenomenon called “belted pores”, which deepen laughter lines and generate fine gaps on the skin which is said to cause an uneven skin tone. The brand claims “belted pores” occur in women in their mid-30s, and it happens mainly to those with oily to combination skins. The rich textured cream is formulated with active collagenol, including antioxidant pycnogenol (French maritime pine bark, INCI: Pinus Pinaster) and collagens type I, type III A, type IV and type VII K. It also contains marjoram extract and Japanese hawthorn fruit extract, vitamins and platinum water. It claims to work on collagen birth, and provides enriched moisture and elasticity to the skin to combat the “belted pore” phenomenon. The product also contains the brand’s original Prize Charge Complex and Moist Network. The Prize Charge Complex consists of Cinchona succirubra bark, peanut peel and licorice leaf extracts.
Whitening teams up
• White and Firm Double Action Essence – Shiliya Cosmetics, China Whitening claims are becoming increasingly popular among new product launches, especially across some of Asia Pacific’s markets. This can be seen in Mintel’s Ingredient analysis (Fig. 4) which displays the growing number of ingredients which have a whitening affect on the skin. This function is generally used as a way of combating the effects of external aggressors such as exposure to intense sunlight. The more innovative skin whitening products we see coming to market communicate complimentary benefits and do not simply rely on their whitening capabilities to get them off shelf and into the hands of consumers. For example, some combine their whitening powers with an organic content message to allay fears of product safety, whereas others (as in this case) communicate other skin enhancing qualities such as firming. Shiliya Cosmetics Bio-Essence is the first skin care range to introduce thanakha into China. This Ayurvedic ingredient comes from sandalwood tree bark and is used as a medicinal remedy throughout southeast Asia. Thanakha has whitening benefits and is known for its ability to cool skin as well as its fragrance. It is said to be a natural sunscreen, astringent and antiseptic. The White & Firm Double Action Essence is packaged in a dual-chambered pump dispenser with two serums, white for whitening and pink for firming.
For further information from Mintel’s Beauty Innovation team, email: info@mintel.com">info@mintel.com">info@mintel.com">info@mintel.com Tel: +61 (0) 2 8284 8100