Curcumin
Curcumin is extracted from the dried root of the turmeric rhizome Curcuma longa. The process of extraction requires the raw material to be ground into powder, and washed with a suitable solvent that selectively extracts colouring matter. This process after distillation of the solvent yields an oleoresin with colouring matter content in the region of 25% to 35% along with volatile oils and other resinous extractives. The oleoresin so obtained is subjected to further washes using selective solvents that can extract the curcumin pigment from the oleoresin. This process yields a powdered, purified food colour, known as curcumin powder, with over 90% colouring matter content and very little volatile oil and other dry matter of natural origin. The characteristic yellow colour of turmeric is due to the curcuminoids, first isolated by Vogel in 1842. Curcumin provides a water soluble orange-yellow colour. It is a natural extract obtained by solvent extraction from the dried rhizomes of turmeric (used in Indian cuisine as a flavouring agent). Curcumin may be used to compensate for fading of natural colouring in pre-packed foods. Recognised as an anticarcinogenic agent during laboratory tests. It is widely used in traditional Indian medicine to cure biliary disorders, anorexia, cough, diabetic wounds, hepatic disorders, rheumatism, and sinusitis. Turmeric paste in slaked lime is a popular home remedy for the treatment of inflammation and wounds. Curcumin has antioxidant, antiinflammatory, antiviral and antifungal actions. Studies have shown that curcumin is not toxic to humans. Curcumin exerts anti-inflammatory activity by inhibition of a number of different molecules that play an important role in inflammation. Turmeric is effective in reducing postsurgical inflammation. It is also useful as an anti-inflammatory agent for arthritis and other inflammatory conditions such as dysmenorrhoea, asthma, infections, eczema, psoriasis and injuries. In the case of arthritis and injuries combination with more analgesic herbs may be necessary to provide adequate symptom relief.13 INCI name: Curcumin. Supplier: Overseal Foods, Sabinsa, Unifect, Univar.
Darutoside
Darutoside has been obtained from the plant Siegesbeckia orientalis L. by ethanolic extraction, followed by fractionated recrystallisation. Other varieties of Siegesbeckia such as S. pubescens and S. glabrescens contain darutoside as well as darutigenol, aglycon (without the sugar moiety) and isodarutoside. It is also found in Palafoxia arida. Siegesbeckia orientalis is, however, the primary source of darutosides. The plant is native to Ethiopia, but mainly found in Madagascar but grows also in Japan, in Australia and the Dekkan peninsula. In Reunion and Mauritius islands it is known under several names referring to its healing properties: “Divine grass”, Collecolle (lit. glue-glue) or “Guerit-vite” (meaning ‘heals rapidly’). Popular uses of the plant are externally for wound healing and for soothing inflammation. It has been examined for firming treatments, anti stretch mark treatment and anti-ageing preparations. INCI name: Darutoside or Siegesbeckia orientalis extract. Supplier: Sederma.
Diosgenin
The pharmaceutical use that led to the source of progesterone (one of the first female contraceptives) was originally sourced from wild yam (Dioscorea villosa) in the form of diosgenin. Eventually the stocks of wild yam fell to such low levels that industry was finding it hard to support the demand and so the much more widely available material, fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum), was used as an alternative source of diosgenin. However the diosgenin by this time was being converted to another hormonal steroid, namely estrone. Diosgenin gives an improvement in skin elasticity, increases skin hydration, reduces skin roughness, is wrinkle smoothing and shows an improvement in the skin lipid content. There are many useful blends that contain diogenin like Unisteron y-50 (Induchem), Viazest Yam (Aldivia), Trogenine (Solabia), Wild Yam (Greentech), Actiphyte of Mexican Wild Yam, Actigen Y (Active Organics), Titramis Wild Yam (Alban Muller). INCI name: Diosgenin. Supplier: K.-W. Pfannenschmidt GmbH, Biospectrum, Sabinsa.
Diosmin or Diosmine
It is a naturally occurring flavonic glycoside; rhamnoglycoside of diosmetin, which can be isolated from various plant sources. It is isolated from lemon peel (Citrus limon L., Rutaceae), from Xanthoxylum avicennae, Rutaceae) and from the flowers of Sophora microphylla Ait, Leguminosae. It has been studied for its efficacy in animal models in high protein oedema. It has also been evaluated for inflammatory granuloma and in a clinical study in post-phlebitic ulcers. It is used in acute haemorrhoids and has been the subject of a clinical trial in venous insufficiency. It may also be considered to be an excellent capillary protectant where it has been used with success in varicose veins. INCI name: Diosmine. Supplier: Princeps, Innothera.
Esculoside or Esculin
Esculoside is obtained from the bark of horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum L.) by extraction with hot water, followed by precipitation of the tannins and fractionate recrystallisation with active carbon filtration steps. It can also be obtained by partial synthesis from esculetol. Esculoside has also been found in an Australian Pittosporaceae, Bursaria spinosa and in Fraxinus japonica. It has been shown to have antiinflammatory activity.14 It has been used in the treatment of red skin blotches, of heavy legs and oedema15,16 as well as increasing the capillary resistance, decreasing capillary permeability and having anti-inflammatory activity.17 INCI name: Esculin. Supplier: Sederma, Euromed, Indena.
Farnesol
Farnesol is a natural organic compound which is an acyclic sesquiterpene alcohol found as a colourless liquid, insoluble in water, but miscible with oils. It is present in many essential oils such as citronella, neroli, cyclamen, lemon grass, tuberose, rose, musk, balsam and tolu and is used in perfumery to emphasise the odours of sweet floral perfumes. Farnesol is the only stereoisomer present in many essential oils but occurs mixed with cis-trans-farnesol in petitgrain oil and several other oils. In perfumery, it is used to emphasise the odour of sweet floral perfumes, such as lilac and cyclamen. One study showed that HGQ, a mixture composed of three products occurring in plant or animal species, farnesol, glyceryl monolaurate, and phenoxyethanol, killed corynebacteria and that it could be recommended for use as an effective deodorant.18 It is one of the 26 potential allergens that need to be declared in cosmetic products (0.01% in rinse off products and 0.001 in leave on). INCI name: Farnesol Supplier: Symrise, Lipo.
Ferulic acid
Ferulic acid (4-hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamic acid) is a natural UV-absorber (maximum absorbance between 300 and 320nm) derived and extracted from rice bran. Ferulic acid is available as an odourless and pale yellow crystalline powder. It is also a powerful antioxidant. Ferulic acid, unlike p-cinnamic acid and caffeic acid, scavenges superoxide anion radicals and also inhibits lipid peroxidation induced by superoxides. In 1886 Hlasiwetz and Barth in Innsbruck, Austria, isolated a dibasic acid from Ferula foetida and named this compound ferulic acid. Five years later it was isolated again from Pinus laricio Poir by Bamberger. It is now often extracted from rice bran (Oryza sativa). INCI name: Ferulic acid. Supplier: Tsuno Rice, Ichimaru Pharcos, A&E Connock.
?-oryzanol
The labelling index and arrested mitosis values were significantly elevated by the topical application of ?-oryzanol. Elevation of these values was paralleled by an increase in sebum production (reported in a previous paper) showing that sebaceous gland cells are stimulated by ?-oryzanol.19 The paper further stated that other than sex hormones, ?-oryzanol is the only substance known to stimulate sebaceous glands by topical application. The antioxidant effects displayed by ?-oryzanol are widely known, and its antioxidative power exhibited in the oxidation of oils and fats has been reported to be superior in animal oils and fats to vegetable ones. ?-oryzanol also exhibits UV absorbing properties and has absorption maxima at about 290 and 315 nm. It has tyrosinase inhibiting action. In addition it inhibits erythema formation and has antiinflammatory action. This study was carried out on mice, where it was noted that the clipped naked skin of mice exposed to a UV lamp developed erythema, whereas the mice treated with oils containing ?-oryzanol led to the prevention of swelling and blisters. Lesions that were already inflamed were not relieved. INCI name: Oryzanol. Supplier: Tsuno Rice, Ichimaru Pharcos, K.-W. Pfannenschmidt GmbH, A&E Connock, Oryza Oil.
Glycyrrhetic acid, glycyrrhetinic acid, enoxolone
Glycyrrhetic acid (3-?-hydroxy-11-oxo- 12-en (18-ß)-30-oic acid), synonym: 18-?-glycyrrhetinic acid (enoxolone). Glycyrrhetinic acid is a pentacyclic triterpene obtained through the hydrolysis of glycyrrhyzic acid, a glucoside which comes from the liquorice root Glycyrrhyiza glabra L., was isolated at the beginning of the 20th Century. This chemical structure was defined after research work conducted by Ruzicka (1936-1943) and Beaton Spring around 1955. It is an anti-inflammatory and can be used in cases of acne, eczema, sun erythema and skin blotch. It is often used in combination with other actives for healing synergy with asiaticoside (see above – from the aerial parts of Centella asiatica), and for alopecia (with Minoxidil). It is used in products specific for antiallergy. There are a number of useful salts. Potassium glycyrrhizinate has lower pharmacological activity, whereas it is a good surfactant and it has emulsifying properties and is soluble in water. Its uses are (in toothpaste) to soothe irritation, to prevent dental caries and to increase foaming power. Glycyrrhizic acid is anti-inflammatory, used in dental decay toothpaste, herpes simplex, conjunctivitis, osteoporosis (with calcitonine), surfactant (emulsifying). Monoammonium glycyrrhizinate is a taste enhancer and is sixty times sweeter than sugar. It is almost insoluble in alcohol, soluble in dilute alcohol, soluble in hot water. Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate is an anti-inflammatory and used against dental decay in toothpaste. INCI name: Glycyrrhetinic acid. Supplier: Amsar Private Ltd., Soliance, Lipo, Maruzen, Burgundy, Cognis.
Hinokitiol
Hinokitiol is a white crystalline acidic substance first isolated from the essential oil of formosan hinoki (Chamaecyparis taiwanensis).20 This substance was also found in the essential oil of aomori hiba tree (Thujopsis dolabrata) at a later date. Both of these species of trees are known for their high degree of resistance against wood decay. Subsequent research led to a proposed structure of a seven membered carbocycle containing two double bonds (which is very rare in natural products), as well as carbonyl and enol radicals.21 After a further examination and revision, it was determined to be 2-hydroxy-4- isopropy1 2,4,6-cycloheptatrieni-one (4-isopropyltropolone) with 3 double bonds.22 It has been shown that hinokitiol shows antimicrobial properties at low dosages and has a wide antimicrobial spectrum against general bacteria and fungi. Hinokitiol is effective against MRSA (Methicillin- Resistant Staphylococcus aureus) and studies have been carried out between antibiotics and hinokitiol, studying the occurrence of resistant bacterial strains like Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus sp and others. The results suggest that hinokitiol, unlike classical antibiotics, may be used to treat infections without the undesirable side effect of generating mutant resistant strains. INCI name: Hinokitiol Supplier: A&E Connock, S. Black.
Kojic acid
Kojic acid is a chelating agent produced by several species of fungi, especially Aspergillus oryzae, which has the Japanese common name of ‘koji’. It is a by-product in the fermentation process of malting rice, when producing sake (Japanese rice wine). It is used in food and cosmetics to help preserve against colour changes. Kojic acid also has antibacterial and antifungal properties. Kojic acid markedly inactivated isolated tyrosinase by chelation. In cultured human melanocytes, tyrosinase activity per well was slightly reduced at the concentration range between 0.1 mM and 0.5 mM but was rapidly dose-dependently reduced at higher concentration. The inhibitory effect of kojic acid on tyrosinase activity in the cell culture system is smaller than that of arbutin at concentrations that do not affect cell viability, even though marked inactivation was observed in isolated tyrosinase. There are conflicting reports on the effectiveness in kojic acid.4 Kojic acid may take two to three months to show efficacy and thus may seem rather slow to be effective. However, kojic acid does not have any side effects during the 10 to 20 month period during normal application on the skin. INCI name: Kojic acid Supplier: A&E Connock, Sino Lion, Ichimaru Pharcos, Tri-K Industries, Creations Couleurs. Lutein Lutein, from the Latin luteus meaning ‘yellow’, is a xanthophyll (E161a) that provides a yellow-red colour. It is related to carotene (E160a) and is normally found in green leaves so is available as a natural plant extract. Lutein is found in plants like dandelion (Taraxacum officinalis) along with violaxanthin, St. John’s wort (Hypericum perforatum). Marigold (Calendula officinalis) and orange peel (Citrus aurantium amara). Interestingly, lutein is often found in combination with violaxanthin. It has also been found in Mexican tarragon (Tagetes lucida Cav.) and in green leafy vegetables such as spinach and kale. Lutein is employed by organisms as an antioxidant and for blue light absorption. Lutein is a lipophilic molecule and is generally insoluble in water. With ageing there is an increased expression or activity of matrix metalloproteinases that degrade and remodel the structural extracellular matrix. In addition, exposure of skin to ultraviolet radiation leads to loss of cell viability, membrane damage, and deposition of excessive elastotic material. Lutein has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and photoprotective properties. The mechanism to lutein’s anti-ageing and anti-carcinogenic effects include the inhibition of MMP to TIMP ratio in dermal fibroblasts and melanoma cells, and the inhibition of cell loss, membrane damage and elastin expression in ultraviolet radiation exposed fibroblasts.23 One study investigated, with the use of a mouse endotoxin-induced uveitis (EIU) model, the neuroprotective effects of lutein against retinal neural damage caused by inflammation. The data revealed that the antioxidant lutein was neuroprotective during EIU, suggesting it might suppress retinal neural damage during inflammation.24 INCI name: Xanthophyll. Supplier: D.D. Williamson, Overseal, Vevy, Kemin.
Lycopene
Lycopene is a bright red carotenoid pigment and phytochemical found in tomatoes and other red fruits & vegetables, such as red carrots and papayas (Carica papaya) and is also reported in other plant sources such as Rosa rubiginosa (rose hip), Taxus baccata (yew), Calendula officinalis (marigold) and Citrullus lanatus (watermelon), though clearly at much lower levels. It is insoluble in water. Because preliminary research has shown an inverse correlation between consumption of tomatoes and cancer risk, lycopene has been considered a potential agent for prevention of some types of cancers, particularly prostate cancer. It has a similar structure to the other carotenes and is a powerful antioxidant and free radical scavenger. Due to its strong colour and non-toxicity, lycopene is a useful food colouring. INCI name: Lycopene. Supplier: Sensient, Unifect, S. Black, Overseal, Univar.
Madecassoside
Centella asiatica extracts are renowned for their remarkable activities on the skin. The biological activity is because of the four active molecules from the triterpene series: asiatic acid (see above), madecassic acid, asiaticoside and madecassoside. Besides their contribution to the natural defense of the plant against environmental aggressions, these molecules have been proved to play a major role in skin care and skin diseases (wound care, dermis restoration and anti-inflammatory activity). The activity of madecassoside on keratinocytes was investigated using an ex vivo study over five days with daily applications of an O/W emulsion containing 3% madecassoside. The histologic observations and the corresponding images analysis demonstrated that madecassoside significantly induced aquaporin-3 expression, especially in the basal keratinocytes, and in the filaggrin synthesis. The subsequent applications involved the cellular homeostasis, the hydric flow regulation and the stratum corneum organisation.25 Madecassoside modulates inflammation and has a modulating effect that works in two ways. It decreases inflammatory ligand release and decreases keratinocyte sensitivity to inflammation that so prevents and progressively reduces the selfmaintained disorders of the inflammation and their consequences on the hyperproliferation of keratinocytes. Madecassoside is an ingredient that restores the epidermis/dermis homeostasis and preserves essential cell functions. In the restructuring of the extra-cellular matrix madecassoside maintains the structure of the extra-cellular matrix and contributes to the improvement of the dialogue between the epidermis and dermis by assuring an increased expression of type I and III collagens.26 An excellent material for wound healing. INCI name: Madecassoside. Supplier: Bayer Health Care, Unifect.
Menthol
Menthol is a secondary alcohol obtained from peppermint oil or other mint oil, or it is prepared synthetically from the hydrogenation of thymol. It is quite effective in insect bite preparations because it is antipruritic and mild anaesthetic properties. The cooling effect makes it a useful additive in shaving products. Applied to the skin, menthol produces vasodilation followed by a feeling of numbness, coolness and mild local anaesthesia. Menthol is used traditionally to relieve headaches, toothache and neuralgia.27 Menthol has a beneficial effect on the irritated and inflamed mucous membranes of the upper respiratory tract, where it shows anti-germ properties, stimulates secretion and has a mild anaesthetic effect on the mucosa. It has a soothing effect on nose and throat at the first stages of a cold.28 INCI name: Menthol. Supplier: A&E Connock, Jeen International, Symrise.
Menthyl lactate
Menthyl lactate is a menthol derived cooling agent that possesses a very mild inherent odour and long tasting cooling effect. It can be easily mixed with perfume oils or glycols (as solvents) before added to shampoos, shower gels and foam bath, etc. INCI name: Menthyl Lactate Supplier: Givaudan, A&E Connock, Prod’Hyg, Sino Lion, Symrise, LCW-Sensient, Corum.
Perillaldehyde
Perillaldehyde, or perilla aldehyde, is a natural organic compound found most abundantly in the annual herb perilla or beefsteak plant (Perilla frutescens), but also in a wide variety of other plants and essential oils. It is a monoterpenoid containing an aldehyde functional group. Perillaldehyde, or volatile oils from perilla that are rich in perillaldehyde, are used as food additives for flavouring and in perfumery to add spiciness. Perillaldehyde can be readily converted to perilla alcohol, which is also used in perfumery. It was discovered that Perilla frutescens (shiso oil) which contained perillaldehyde, (74%) and limonene (12.8%) had antimicrobial activity, which was mainly attributed to the perillaldehyde. It was found that perillaldehyde inhibited fungi and both gram-positive and gram-negative and in green leafy vegetables such as spinach and kale. Lutein is employed by organisms as an antioxidant and for blue light absorption. Lutein is a lipophilic molecule and is generally insoluble in water. With ageing there is an increased expression or activity of matrix metalloproteinases that degrade and remodel the structural extracellular matrix. In addition, exposure of skin to ultraviolet radiation leads to loss of cell viability, membrane damage, and deposition of excessive elastotic material. Lutein has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and photoprotective properties. The mechanism to lutein’s anti-ageing and anti-carcinogenic effects include the inhibition of MMP to TIMP ratio in dermal fibroblasts and melanoma cells, and the inhibition of cell loss, membrane damage and elastin expression in ultraviolet radiation exposed fibroblasts.23 One study investigated, with the use of a mouse endotoxin-induced uveitis (EIU) model, the neuroprotective effects of lutein against retinal neural damage caused by inflammation. The data revealed that the antioxidant lutein was neuroprotective during EIU, suggesting it might suppress retinal neural damage during inflammation.24 INCI name: Xanthophyll. Supplier: D.D. Williamson, Overseal, Vevy, Kemin.
Lycopene
Lycopene is a bright red carotenoid pigment and phytochemical found in tomatoes and other red fruits & vegetables, such as red carrots and papayas (Carica papaya) and is also reported in other plant sources such as Rosa rubiginosa (rose hip), Taxus baccata (yew), Calendula officinalis (marigold) and Citrullus lanatus (watermelon), though clearly at much lower levels. It is insoluble in water. Because preliminary research has shown an inverse correlation between consumption of tomatoes and cancer risk, lycopene has been considered a potential agent for prevention of some types of cancers, particularly prostate cancer. It has a similar structure to the other carotenes and is a powerful antioxidant and free radical scavenger. Due to its strong colour and non-toxicity, lycopene is a useful food colouring. INCI name: Lycopene. Supplier: Sensient, Unifect, S. Black, Overseal, Univar.
Madecassoside
Centella asiatica extracts are renowned for their remarkable activities on the skin. The biological activity is because of the four active molecules from the triterpene series: asiatic acid (see above), madecassic acid, asiaticoside and madecassoside. Besides their contribution to the natural defense of the plant against environmental aggressions, these molecules have been proved to play a major role in skin care and skin diseases (wound care, dermis restoration and anti-inflammatory activity). The activity of madecassoside on keratinocytes was investigated using an ex vivo study over five days with daily applications of an O/W emulsion containing 3% madecassoside. The histologic observations and the corresponding images analysis demonstrated that madecassoside significantly induced aquaporin-3 expression, especially in the basal keratinocytes, and in the filaggrin synthesis. The subsequent applications involved the cellular homeostasis, the hydric flow regulation and the stratum corneum organisation.25 Madecassoside modulates inflammation and has a modulating effect that works in two ways. It decreases inflammatory ligand release and decreases keratinocyte sensitivity to inflammation that so prevents and progressively reduces the selfmaintained disorders of the inflammation and their consequences on the hyperproliferation of keratinocytes. Madecassoside is an ingredient that restores the epidermis/dermis homeostasis and preserves essential cell functions. In the restructuring of the extra-cellular matrix madecassoside maintains the structure of the extra-cellular matrix and contributes to the improvement of the dialogue between the epidermis and dermis by assuring an increased expression of type I and III collagens.26 An excellent material for wound healing. INCI name: Madecassoside. Supplier: Bayer Health Care, Unifect.
Menthol
Menthol is a secondary alcohol obtained from peppermint oil or other mint oil, or it is prepared synthetically from the hydrogenation of thymol. It is quite effective in insect bite preparations because it is antipruritic and mild anaesthetic properties. The cooling effect makes it a useful additive in shaving products. Applied to the skin, menthol produces vasodilation followed by a feeling of numbness, coolness and mild local anaesthesia. Menthol is used traditionally to relieve headaches, toothache and neuralgia.27 Menthol has a beneficial effect on the irritated and inflamed mucous membranes of the upper respiratory tract, where it shows anti-germ properties, stimulates secretion and has a mild anaesthetic effect on the mucosa. It has a soothing effect on nose and throat at the first stages of a cold.28 INCI name: Menthol. Supplier: A&E Connock, Jeen International, Symrise.
Menthyl lactate
Menthyl lactate is a menthol derived cooling agent that possesses a very mild inherent odour and long tasting cooling effect. It can be easily mixed with perfume oils or glycols (as solvents) before added to shampoos, shower gels and foam bath, etc. INCI name: Menthyl Lactate Supplier: Givaudan, A&E Connock, Prod’Hyg, Sino Lion, Symrise, LCW-Sensient, Corum.
Perillaldehyde
Perillaldehyde, or perilla aldehyde, is a natural organic compound found most abundantly in the annual herb perilla or beefsteak plant (Perilla frutescens), but also in a wide variety of other plants and essential oils. It is a monoterpenoid containing an aldehyde functional group. Perillaldehyde, or volatile oils from perilla that are rich in perillaldehyde, are used as food additives for flavouring and in perfumery to add spiciness. Perillaldehyde can be readily converted to perilla alcohol, which is also used in perfumery. It was discovered that Perilla frutescens (shiso oil) which contained perillaldehyde, (74%) and limonene (12.8%) had antimicrobial activity, which was mainly attributed to the perillaldehyde. It was found that perillaldehyde inhibited fungi and both gram-positive and gram-negative antimicrobial activities. It has been used topically as a non-steroidal antiinflammatory drug. Rosmarinic acid has good percutaneous absorption, tissue distribution, and bioavailability which makes it a good ingredient suitable for transdermal administration.32 Rosmarinic acid is effective in reducing both gingival inflammation and plaque accumulation.33 It also has an antibacterial activity and is proven to reduce inflammation which makes it ideal for topical skin infections of the epidermis and oral mucosa.34 It is often used as part of a blend of materials in order to produce a natural preservative. INCI name: Rosmarinic acid. Supplier: Sabinsa.
Salicylic acid
The name salicylic acid (2-Hydroxybenzoic acid) is derived from the Latin Salix meaning willow, from the bark of which it can be obtained. It is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) and is probably best known for its use in anti-acne treatments. Salicylic acid was also isolated from the herb meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria, Syn. Spiraea ulmaria). Salicylic acid is known for its ability to ease aches and pains and reduce fevers. These medicinal properties, particularly fever relief, have been known since ancient times, and it was used as an anti-inflammatory drug. Salicylic acid is a skin exfoliant and has been used in conjunction with AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) or alone for this purpose. It is a key ingredient for the treatment of acne, psoriasis, calluses, corns, and warts. It works as a keratolytic by increasing the rate of skin cell turnover causing the cells of the epidermis to shed more readily, this helps prevent pores from clogging up, and allows for new cell growth. It has also been used in shampoos for the treatment of dandruff and has some skin whitening properties. The United States FDA recommends the use of sun protection when using skincare products containing salicylic acid (or any other BHA) on sun-exposed skin areas. Salicylic acid is a preservative listed in Annex VI but it is fairly poor for yeast, mould, bacteria when used alone. Maximum permitted level is 0.5% (as the acid). INCI name: Salicylic acid. Supplier: A&E Connock among others
Sodium ?-sitosterol sulfate
Sterols also known as phytosterols, are fats present in all plants, including fruits and vegetables. ?-sitosterol is the major phytosterol in higher plants and possesses anti-inflammatory (similar to cortisone), antipyretic, antineoplastic, and immunemodulating properties. Phytosterols also reduced experimentally-induced oedema. ?-sitosterol significantly increases keratin expression in human skin after 24 and 48 hours. It protects against chemical insults and treated skin exhibits a preserved keratin layer with minor oedema between epidermal cells following an insult with strong detergent. It significantly improves skin hydration and reduces loss of skin hydration and restores the skin barrier function. Studies have shown that skin roughness is reduced and lines and wrinkles are greatly reduced. There are numerous commercial preparations that contain standardised amounts of mixed phytosterols. There is a mixture of naturally occurring phytosterols derived from by-product of soybean oils. It is rich in ?-sitosterol, campesterol, stigmasterol which also contains brassicasterol, ?-sitostanol, stigmastanol and campestanol (ex Fenchem through Cornelius). INCI name: Sodium beta-sitosterol sulfate. Supplier: ISP-Vincience.
Ursolic acid
Ursolic acid, also known as urson, prunol, micromerol, and malol, is a pentacyclic triterpenoid compound which naturally occurs in many plants, including apples (Prunus malus), basil (Ocimum basilicum), bilberries (Vaccinium myrtilus), cranberries (Vaccinium macrocarpon), elder flower (Sambucus nigra), peppermint (Mentha piperita), rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis), lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), oregano (Oreganum vulgare), thyme (Thymus vulgaris), hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna), prunes (Prunus domestica). Apple peels contain high quantity of ursolic acid and related compounds. Ursolic acid and its alkali salts (potassium or sodium ursolates) were formerly used as emulsifying agents in pharmaceutical, cosmetic and food preparations. In recent times ursolic acid has been found to be medicinally active both topically and internally and its antiinflammatory (oral and topical), anti-tumour (skin cancer), and antimicrobial properties make it useful in cosmetic applications. Oleanolic acid is an isomer of ursolic acid and the compound is available naturally in its free form in Olea europaea (olive) leaves. There is also some evidence to show that ursolic acid may be of relevance in hair tonics to encourage hair growth. Hair tonics containing oleanolic acid are also patented in Japan. INCI name: Ursolic acid. Supplier: BioSpectrum, Sabinsa.
Conclusions
It is always difficult to perform a review of this depth and cover all the materials and suppliers. If we have not mentioned your active in this paper or we have mentioned the active, but not your company, then please contact the author at dweckdata@aol.com">dweckdata@aol.com">dweckdata@aol.com">dweckdata@aol.com and we will add your details/material to a spreadsheet that we plan to publish shortly in a future issue.
References
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