Making Cosmetics: stay ahead of the competition
Making Cosmetics features developments that allow branded/private label manufacturers and brand owners/ developers to respond effectively and efficiently to consumer demand in ever competitive markets.

Analysis of cosmetic waxes and butters
The modern definition of a wax is that it is not a glyceride. Glycerides are fats which are closely related to waxes but waxes are harder, less greasy, more brittle and very resistant to moisture, oxidisation and microbial attack.1 The melting points of waxes vary widely depending on their unique composition and chain lengths. Beeswax, candelilla, carnauba and polyethylene waxes are some of the more commonly used types in cosmetic formulations. They provide structure to sticks, barrier function to balms and creams and add thickening and waterproofing properties to mascara.

Crowds flock to Coventry show’s free seminars
The 2014 SCS Formulate was held on 11-12 November in Coventry, UK, and once again attracted a record attendance. Organisers, Step Exhibitions, announced that the show saw 978 attendees (up from 916 in 2013) make the trip to the Ricoh Arena, with a particularly strong showing for the free seminars. This aspect of the event has become increasingly important over recent years thanks to some excellent speakers and cutting-edge topics.

Paris Congress educates on beauty and wellbeing
The 2014 IFSCC Congress was held in Paris from the 27-30 October at the Palais des Congrès. The event was formally opened by IFSCC and Société Française de Cosmétologie (SFC) President Claudie Willemin, who said in her opening speech that the aim was to study the science behind cosmetology, thereby taking on board the psychology of cosmetics alongside traditional disciplines such as chemistry and biology, as well as newer areas such as neurocosmetics.

The power of retinol without the irritation
Granactive Retinoid (INCI Name: Dimethyl Isosorbide (and) Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate) is a skin care active ingredient that belongs to a class of chemical compounds termed retinoids, which are natural and synthetic derivatives of vitamin A, capable of binding to retinoid receptors.

Journey from saving whales to sustainable chemistry
During the 1970s the plight of sperm whales was brought to international attention through a worldwide anti-whaling campaign. Several centuries of intensive hunting of these gentle mammals brought them to the brink of extinction. Sperm whales were specifically targeted for their spermaceti oil, an excellent lubricant for personal care and industrial applications.

Lipstick formulation: not as easy as you might think
Long lasting, hydrating, matting, plumping: these are all qualities we read about in lipstick advertisements. With new slogans and the guarantee of unique quality, producers encourage us to buy new products. Oil/wax systems sound simple and uncomplicated, but what exactly does that mean for the development chemist?

Turning back the clock with a new active ingredient
Perceptions of age are no longer based on fine lines and wrinkles alone. Behavioural scientific research has shown that colour irregularities, dark spots and uneven skin tones are also considered to be signs of ageing.

Abundant opportunities for development of new actives
Sustainability is a major concern within the cosmetics and toiletries industry. Consequently, the development of alternatives with effective natural ingredients is an important challenge for raw materials manufacturers.

Marine plant stem cells as cosmetic active ingredients
BiotechMarine, acquired by Seppic in early 2013, supplies natural cosmetic actives ingredients from seaweed and marine plants. BiotechMarine was one of the first companies to propose such product in the cosmetic industry with the cellulosome Crithmum maritimum, followed by the cellulosome Eryngium maritimum.

Marine ingredients: latest actives from the deep
The hunt for new chemistries is a highly competitive area for the personal care industry. Every finished product manufacturer is looking for something to create a gap between themselves and their nearest competitor, and it is the task of ingredient manufacturers to help provide innovative actives in order to achieve this goal.

The power of retinol without the irritation
Granactive Retinoid (INCI Name: Dimethyl Isosorbide (and) Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate) is a skin care active ingredient that belongs to a class of chemical compounds termed retinoids, which are natural and synthetic derivatives of vitamin A, capable of binding to retinoid receptors.

Melanosome transportation control via innovative active
Various biological parts and structures are formed within cells and transported to parts of the body by driving proteins called motor proteins. For example, melanin pigment that influences skin tone is produced in melanocytes and passed to keratinocytes through dendrites. Keratinocytes absorb melanin from surrounding areas (or tips of dendrites including melanin) and darken.

Natural wonders inspire innovation in Cairns
The Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists (ASCC) will be hosting the 12th Bi-annual Conference of the Asian Societies of Cosmetic Scientists (ASCS) to be held in Cairns, Australia in 2015. The Conference Organising Committee has been working hard to formulate an enthusing conference programme.

Brighter solution for even skin tone
First impressions are everything so having a healthy, balanced complexion is a must. It is a challenge every person confronts, no matter their age. Imperfections come in many different forms; whether they are under-eye circles, beauty marks, or simply lacklustre skin, we all have them and handle them in our own, sometimes novel, ways. ReGeniStemTM Brightening is the latest skin care active from Lonza to tackle your imperfections. Designed to brighten skin and even skin tone without irritation, it is a new solution for truly beautiful skin.

New features a success at Bangkok show
in-cosmetics Asia 2014 was heralded a great success by visitors, exhibitors and organisers. More than 6,595 visitors from across Asia and further afield attended the show, with over 400 suppliers from 28 countries.

New topics covered in Guangzhou
The 8th edition of the Personal Care and Homecare Ingredients (PCHi) trade show will take place at the Guangzhou Poly World Trade Center from 12-14 March 2015. The show is expecting to occupy 23,000 m2 of exhibition space, with 400 exhibitors from 20 different countries and territories

Global skin action of a laminaria extract
Skin is a large and complex tissue where the orchestrated actions of resident cells are necessary to support its structural and metabolic integrity. Cells of the epidermis (mainly keratinocytes) play a role in protecting from environmental stress such as UV exposure, mechanical damage and pro-oxidative attacks. Perhaps more importantly, top layers of the epidermis along with a lipid-rich intercellular matrix form the skin barrier.

Microalgae as sustainable source of powerful actives
The sea has always been an immense source of precious materials, nutrients and inspiration to humanity as a whole. Throughout the centuries mankind has turned to the sea to obtain products to sustain its life and its evolution.

Powerful, stable antioxidant to combat pollution
Pollution and other external factors like UV rays have a severe damaging effect on the skin and its aspect, which is becoming a major widespread concern. The formation of reactive species is one of the consequences that leads to oxidative stress and DNA damage, as well as protein and lipid alteration. The appearance of the skin worsens as a result, so an effective scavenger of reactive species is necessary to prevent premature ageing and protect from external aggressors. Lipotec proposes a powerful topical antioxidant that quenches ROS and RNS, efficiently protecting cells from pollution and UV damage.