RECENT TECHNICAL ARTICLES

Specialty silicones for skin lightening products
Consumers want smooth, even-toned skin that expresses youth and beauty, despite their age. However, as skin ages, it can become blotchy or develop uneven, dark spots, upsetting its natural uniformity and radiance. As a result, truly effective skin lightening (also referred to as whitening) formulations continue to be in high demand. As noted by Mintel:

A multilayer skin activator with cross-talk function
Communication between cells within a certain skin layer, but also across various skin layers and between different skin cell types, is imperative for the proper function of skin. The unique short-chain ceramide caprooyl phytosphingosine (trade name Sphingokine NP) was found to stimulate the cross-talk between different cells throughout the skin, resulting in visibly plumped and reshaped skin.

Restrictions on three preservatives in 2015
A press release1 was issued by the European Commission in Brussels on 26 September 2014 restricting the use of three preservatives in cosmetic products. The commission stated the restrictions: “further strengthened the protection of consumers, in particular babies and young children.”

Anti-plaque effect of zinc citrate measured
The global oral care market was estimated by Mintel at US$30.5 billion in 2013 and is estimated to grow around 5% annually over the next five years.1

Can innovation reverse the decline in sales?
Despite promotions on personal care products being at an all-time high, growth in sales across Europe is declining, and price increases have become difficult to justify. With promotions no longer exciting consumers and driving increased volume sales the way they used to, a need for innovation has come to the fore.

Non-hydrogenated vegetal butters boost skin-feel
A large number of ingredients are used in cosmetic applications. Lipids are commonly known as water non-soluble compounds. Depending on their structure, they can be classified as: fluid lipids (oils), pasty lipids (butters) or solid (waxes). Lipids are constituted by triglycerides (esters) and a fraction called ‘insaponifiable content’.

Ingredients focus: hair care
At this year’s in-cosmetics show in Hamburg, there was a wide array of new ingredients designed to make stand-out products in the hair market. From styling polymers to conditioning agents, there was plenty to support formulators in their quest to develop new products in what is an increasingly competitive and demanding environment.

Broad band, photostable prevention of UV damage
Exposure to sunlight is of the utmost importance in vitamin D3 formation and has the additional cosmetically desirable effect of imparting a bronzed tanned glow to our skin in the summer months.

Alternative broad spectrum blend with natural element
An antimicrobial agent is a chemical compound added to cosmetic products that inhibits the growth of, or inactivates, pathogens or spoilage microorganisms. If a cosmetic product becomes contaminated with microorganisms such as bacteria, yeast and moulds and is then applied to damaged or broken skin, it has the potential to cause irritation or infection.

Bridging the gap between tradition and sustainability
Imagine a world without preservatives. Shampoo would be packaged in single-use packets. Face cream would be stored in the refrigerator and disposed of after about a week.

Multifunctional cosmetic ingredients as antimicrobials
As the personal care industry evolves, formulators are seeking innovative solutions for their formulations’ needs. There is increased interest in ingredients that can offer multiple functions within a formulation.

Skin pigmentation controlled via intelligent targeting
The development of any cosmetic product focuses generally on two factors: efficacy and safety. Both factors are closely related to the concentration of use, either because a minimum amount of assets are required in order to obtain visible results, or to adjust the amount to avoid unwanted effects.

Sun care aids demand for skin whitening
A recent study conducted by L’Oréal India has given weight to the position that one of the most effective ways of achieving and maintaining a lighter complexion is to regularly use sun care products.

Education programme now free for everyone
With the Asia Pacific cosmetics industry among the fastest growing markets in the world, the innovation on offer in the region is leading to new trends and unique opportunities for exciting product development.

Great potential of booming Chinese beauty market
Being home to two-thirds of the global population, Asia Pacific is a true lure for beauty and personal care brands. In China alone, the estimated population in 2015 is 1.39 billion. With the 1,020,000 Chinese millionaires and over 60,000 ‘super-rich’, China is poised to consume one-third of global luxury goods.

Paris revisited after 16-year wait
Twenty-first century cosmetics has always been driven by consumer needs which require perceived performance.

Phospholipid-based emulsifiers give much more
The base formula of a cosmetic product contributes greatly to its success, not only in terms of the pleasure it provides upon application but also in terms of efficacy. The base must not be considered only as the sensorial part of a formula but also as a key element to improve the clinical results.

Infant skin conditions – treatments and products
An infant’s skin varies greatly from adult skin, the barrier it provides from the outside world continues to develop over the early years, during which time it is much more prone to developing conditions rarer in adults.

Improving dandruff shampoo via biobased propanediol
Zemea biobased propanediol (INCI: Propanediol), manufactured by DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products, is a natural, preservative-boosting humectant and solvent. It can be used to replace or augment petroleum based glycols such as propylene glycol (PG), butylene glycol (BG) or glycerin in cosmetic and personal care formulations.

Dry shampoo makes a comeback
Dry shampoo is by no means a new innovation, but sales have surged recently, and there are many reasons behind this rapid growth. Modern, busy women swear by dry shampoos, and top-rated stylists around the world consider them to be an indispensible tool in their arsenal. This skip-a-day style saver instantly refreshes hair, so that ‘no shampoo’ thing can be a woman’s clean little secret.
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